wouldnt use gypsum
cement board and render or masterboard with capped screws.
Regs these days would need a fire protection so an a1 fire rated board would be a must
Krend is not lime based.
basecoat is cement, and silicone.... well its aikicone although can breathe
It looks like your cottage is solid wall (without cavity) so there wont be a dpc to this day standards.
ideally a lime render system should of been used or a breathable lime insulated system
timber frames on domestic dwellings require a cavity.
usual build up.
timberframe.
18mm ply/sheathingboard
membrane
25mm vertical battens
cement render carrierboards
thincoat silicone render.
if in doubt happy to advise if you message
there is no silicone on there yet. the silicone is the coloured bucket topcoat.
what you see is the cement basecoat which jas come clean off the mesh.
This is unusual and i would say mesh dont look like its been bedded on to a basecoat. and instead dry fixed to the wall then basecoat over the...
sprayed on ritmo L. just over 200 on the water.
2 x coats on blockwork 15mm.
finished spraying around 1pm.
didnt start scratching back and still soft at 10am next day.
temp around 5 degrees
weve just been spraying fassa through ritmo l.
2 passes 15mm and still nice and soft at 8am next day
think you need to wet your spray up a bit. as 1 stop says usually bit of dry gear.
liquid flow screed 50mm is cost effective.
express screeds are in your area for that.
or if you increase the insulation thickness you can 30mm bagged screed .
i recently got a quote for a liquid screed 30m2 1700quid supply fit
There are plenty of good lime systems around if that is what you still want to achieve.
to name a few.
fassa
baumit
best of lime
l*m*-g***n.
all compatible with wood fibre boards. your applicator should be experienced in recommending
depends what finish you want to offer.
traditional float and sponge. ( i use fassa or best of lime personally.)
trowelled finish again best of lime for that.
Dan
Ejl plastering
it should be picture frame aroumd board and dabs in middle.
25mm off the wall usually means wall isnt plumb. some of the advantages with the adhesibe you can line the boards in flat.
it will be mechanically fixed aswell.
if you require any advice send us an email.
ejl.plastering@gmail.com...
beacause i sometimes found it hard to keep.the whole of the stopbead sat against the frame. (sometimes found 1mm gap or so if anything not flat or square).
with a bell only the front couple of mm sits on frame and you can twist bead to suit
What age is your house? is it a solid council house which would be a wimpy style house with pebbledash in the concrete panels.
or a.traditional 9inch solid brick.
you may be eligable for a grant under eco plus scheme to install external wall insulation
correct meant to have an expansion.
but also the renderboard section should be ventilated.
i have done what you are doing and rendered the lot under customers orders. but havent heard anything to say any cracking has occured
you wont have to rip off. just a smoothing layer of basecoat. 1mm is finer but needs a flat surface.
please put a picture up though as its unusual for somone to say its a heavy grain unless they sprayed it ?
ensure the renderboard is cement based not mgo.
our preference is gypsotech renderboard and jub thincoat render
every renderer will have their own preference
i havent used vpi.
there are so many products and systems out now.
you will find only a few "systems" will have bba certs. not alot of.product alone will have them. they will have the european tag which cant remember what.
renderers are like mechanics. certian mechanics will only work on certian makes.
same with renderers. if you get a fail with a product people tend to jump ship.
if seen fails on a number of systems. some install error, some design fault and others bad luck (weather elements etc).
systems...
never had a problem before. or know of one.
as mentioned did you leave it to cure.
is the air dry and temp above 5 degrees when you topped and for some time after?
what have you been rendering?
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