Aquapanel questions.

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woodbutcher

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Hi chaps, first post after lurking for a while.

As my monicker suggests, i'm a joiner and have just built a timber framed extension onto my house which i intended to clad with timber but after some more thought, have decided to render instead. My house is pebble dashed (unfortunately) which i've had painted, so have decided on a render finish for my extension which i can paint to match my house.

Thinking of using aquapanel, which i can fit myself and do the jointing and taping. Bit stuck after that. Got a mate who is a plasterer and does a bit of rendering too. He has never used the new thincoat renders and i was just wondering how easy it is to do on your first attempt, if you are used to wielding a trowel. Think i may just go for the white basecoat and paint option.

Also. i've seen on the knauf website that the board can be used unvented on single stud timber frame, which i have. Is this ok in practice does anybody know? I currently have studwork, faced with OSB and covered in breathable membrane to the outside, with nothing yet applied inside.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 
woodbutcher said:
Hi chaps, first post after lurking for a while.

As my monicker suggests, i'm a joiner and have just built a timber framed extension onto my house which i intended to clad with timber but after some more thought, have decided to render instead. My house is pebble dashed (unfortunately) which i've had painted, so have decided on a render finish for my extension which i can paint to match my house.

Thinking of using aquapanel, which i can fit myself and do the jointing and taping. Bit stuck after that. Got a mate who is a plasterer and does a bit of rendering too. He has never used the new thincoat renders and i was just wondering how easy it is to do on your first attempt, if you are used to wielding a trowel. Think i may just go for the white basecoat and paint option.

Also. i've seen on the knauf website that the board can be used unvented on single stud timber frame, which i have. Is this ok in practice does anybody know? I currently have studwork, faced with OSB and covered in breathable membrane to the outside, with nothing yet applied inside.

Any thoughts appreciated.
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@runwithscissors will advise you on aquapanel as he is the tech guy for knauf aqua.

As.for the rendering say where you are someone local may be able.to advise
 
Thanks chaps.

I'm in Grimsby, which is only a few mile from the Knauf plant at Immingham, so shouldn't be too hard to get this job done.
 
woodbutcher said:
Hi chaps, first post after lurking for a while.

As my monicker suggests, i'm a joiner and have just built a timber framed extension onto my house which i intended to clad with timber but after some more thought, have decided to render instead. My house is pebble dashed (unfortunately) which i've had painted, so have decided on a render finish for my extension which i can paint to match my house.

Thinking of using aquapanel, which i can fit myself and do the jointing and taping. Bit stuck after that. Got a mate who is a plasterer and does a bit of rendering too. He has never used the new thincoat renders and i was just wondering how easy it is to do on your first attempt, if you are used to wielding a trowel. Think i may just go for the white basecoat and paint option.

Also. i've seen on the knauf website that the board can be used unvented on single stud timber frame, which i have. Is this ok in practice does anybody know? I currently have studwork, faced with OSB and covered in breathable membrane to the outside, with nothing yet applied inside.

Any thoughts appreciated.
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Evening Butch.....

As the guys above have posted, My name is Richard Lord and I am the Knauf Aquapanel Technical guy in the UK

Sounds like you have already done some good research. I take it you have been to the Aquapanel.com website and seen the non-ventilated systems, In the UK, building regs and insurance providers state that there has to be a drained and ventilated cavity between the timber frame and cladding, so you will need to batten out with vertical external treated battens at the same centers as the timber frame, before applying the Knauf Aquapanel Exterior.

You will find a link to the UK brochure in my signature below - if you have some drawings or details that you could send through to me, send them to rlord@knauf.co.uk and I will review and offer further assistance. (you will find my contact number if you click on my forum name - top left - and then click view profile)

In theory you can apply a dash finish to Knauf Aquapanel Exterior, but you will need to tape and joint and apply a modern thin coat finish first (then it is usually a thinner layer of dash receiver than on a block wall).

As Dan has said - post your location and E Mail address (you have not posted enough to get prvate messages sent to you and posting a number will have guys chasing, E mails can be ignored later) and I am sure you will get some details from local guys who will be more than happy to assist and price the rendering

Good Luck

Richard
 
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@Runswithscissors i,m getting more jobs these days that are half timber framed/masonry ,but they want weber pral on the complete area ,is it ok to give your number out to advice on the cement board ?, i know it needs a Lac base coat with full mesh ,but have you guys got over Weber saying it,s ok ?thanks for your help, as always
 
I asked this to rich the other day @keithuk and its ok to use pral just ruff the LAC up abit for a key
 
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Arti said:
I asked this to rich the other day @keithuk and its ok to use pral just ruff the LAC up abit for a key
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I have done it mate on small areas when i have no other choice ,but are weber ok with it as a weber pral top coat ,when it goes tits ,i don,t need weber saying it not compatible , just makes me look a **** ,and i can do that without any help:RpS_blushing:
 
keithuk said:
I have done it mate on small areas when i have no other choice ,but are weber ok with it as a weber pral top coat ,when it goes tits ,i don,t need weber saying it not compatible , just makes me look a **** ,and i can do that without any help:RpS_blushing:
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Cant remember who the weber hater is on here...........rigsby ? but even if you follow the spec from weber i think they have a get out of jail card.

and for the record, i dont think you look like a ****, specially in your leather arseless chaps..................:RpS_wink:
 
keithuk said:
@Runswithscissors i,m getting more jobs these days that are half timber framed/masonry ,but they want weber pral on the complete area ,is it ok to give your number out to advice on the cement board ?, i know it needs a Lac base coat with full mesh ,but have you guys got over Weber saying it,s ok ?thanks for your help, as always
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Hi Keith

Weber are reluctant to specify their Pral M onto boards - but it does get done.... (I think that they are looking at a formal system, with some limitations to wall sizes)

As you have said, LAC mesh with a bit of a key (careful not to move or damage the mesh), let it dry and then Pral coat.

Make sure that you have a movement joint between the block wall and TF boarded wall. The Tf will settle and the block will not (as much) so if you render straight over them together it will almost certainly crack. We have a detail for this.

By all means, pass on my details to your customers - if you let me know that you are doing it, obviously I will then be able to refer to you in the discussions (drop me a mail with the reference - I will contact them directly if you want - rlord@knauf.co.uk 07918766577)

Good Luck

(BTW - the likes of K Rend and Parex do specify and warrant their scratch finishes to Knauf Aquapanel Exterior, it is Weber who are a little behind them and more risk adverse..... but I think are looking at it)
 
No Problems

If it is Weber you are comfortable with - double check with them.... but it is your call, Parex and K Rend are happy with it
 
Thanks for the advice so far.

House next door to me has just been renovated for rental and it turns out that the plasterer who did the work there is now renting it, so i had a word with him. He has a little knowledge of k-rend but the guy he works with has more experience. He is going to ask him for some info for me and said he will sort the job.

He has suggested a tyrolean finish will will resemble the painted pebble dash i have on my house. Can this be done with s&c or only with the more modern renders? What is the procedure for this finish on aquapanel?

Richard, thanks for the heads up on unvented systems. The building regs part of it is not an issue because it is technically classed as a conservatory, with a top spec polycarb roof and in excess of 50% glazing. That just leaves the insurance aspect and i can't see them being overly concerned about a small addition to my main house when i inform them. It is after all classed as a temporary structure, so i can't see any reason why an unvented system would not be feasible if they are ok to use. It would make things simpler for me as i don't have much overhang to play with.

Again any info appreciated. Thanks.
 
woodbutcher said:
Thanks for the advice so far.

House next door to me has just been renovated for rental and it turns out that the plasterer who did the work there is now renting it, so i had a word with him. He has a little knowledge of k-rend but the guy he works with has more experience. He is going to ask him for some info for me and said he will sort the job.

He has suggested a tyrolean finish will will resemble the painted pebble dash i have on my house. Can this be done with s&c or only with the more modern renders? What is the procedure for this finish on aquapanel?

Richard, thanks for the heads up on unvented systems. The building regs part of it is not an issue because it is technically classed as a conservatory, with a top spec polycarb roof and in excess of 50% glazing. That just leaves the insurance aspect and i can't see them being overly concerned about a small addition to my main house when i inform them. It is after all classed as a temporary structure, so i can't see any reason why an unvented system would not be feasible if they are ok to use. It would make things simpler for me as i don't have much overhang to play with.

Again any info appreciated. Thanks.[/QUOTE.
Tyrolene is traditionally sand n cement anyway bud will be fine on aquapanel it's cement based anyhoo :RpS_thumbup:
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woodbutcher said:
Could I just tape and fill the joints, then sbr bond the aquapanel and go over it with s&c tyrolean?
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Why on earth would you want to chew about doing that.
Polymer adhesive comes out the bag just add water skim it on its the easiest way and the best
 
plasterjfe said:
Why on earth would you want to chew about doing that.
Polymer adhesive comes out the bag just add water skim it on its the easiest way and the best
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I'm a joiner so I know next to nowt about rendering. I suspected that I couldn't do what I was asking but thought I'd ask anyway. My limited knowledge of render only includes sand and cement and absolutely nothing on the new types.

Thanks for the replies chaps.
 
woodbutcher said:
I'm a joiner so I know next to nowt about rendering. I suspected that I couldn't do what I was asking but thought I'd ask anyway. My limited knowledge of render only includes sand and cement and absolutely nothing on the new types.

Thanks for the replies chaps.
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If you are going to have a crack yourself, Use a polymer adhesive. Not maite. That aint the easiest to use if you have limited trowel experience.

Something like weber LAC or envirorend mesh adhesive very easy to use.
Skim it out and lay the mesh on flatten the mesh down. Then skim it over again once it has firmed up say after a coupka hrs. Best way for you to get a decent finish IMO and the thickness required
 
plasterjfe said:
If you are going to have a crack yourself, Use a polymer adhesive. Not maite. That aint the easiest to use if you have limited trowel experience.

Something like weber LAC or envirorend mesh adhesive very easy to use.
Skim it out and lay the mesh on flatten the mesh down. Then skim it over again once it has firmed up say after a coupka hrs. Best way for you to get a decent finish IMO and the thickness required
Click to expand...

Or search for a plasterer local who knows his stuff
 
I called weber tech 2 weeks ago to ask this very question, they advised lac, mesh then thin coat system they wouldnt guarantee lac and weber pral m,I couldnt help thinking it would be ok as like already been stated parex and krend are ok with it . frustrating situation:confused:
 
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