Best way to go about this

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stuart23

stuart23

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Getting steels put in where bifold doors going on my house but due to a problem with sizes we have to use steel on the outside wall instead of a k9. What's the best way to prepare this for render so I don't get any cracks between steel and existing house? Builder talking about plying the steel then building paper and mesh, but I think I'll get a crack through time where it meets existing house. Expansion beads not an option because of where it is. I'll be finishing it in parex
 
Regardless of what you use where you have to different substrate materials there is always going to be a higher risk of cracking if no expansion/movement is allowed for.
You wouldn't see any new build without correct movement beads so you def should be putting one in to an existing structure that has been knocked about and will re settle with the steel and doors in.
Best Bet is render carrier board and a good bit of meshing and more meshing and just hope it doesn't.


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If ply is the way you are going to go take the ply just beyond the lintol, take the breathable felt just beyond the ply edge, take the expanded metal lath beyond the felt then use a base coat with polymer in it (sbr) and fully mesh it all taking the mesh beyond the expanded metal lathing which is only a render carrier.

On your render coat mesh again beyond the base coat mesh.
 
stuart23 said:
View attachment 12577 Getting steels put in where bifold doors going on my house but due to a problem with sizes we have to use steel on the outside wall instead of a k9. What's the best way to prepare this for render so I don't get any cracks between steel and existing house? Builder talking about plying the steel then building paper and mesh, but I think I'll get a crack through time where it meets existing house. Expansion beads not an option because of where it is. I'll be finishing it in parex
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Do you live in iraq or syria ??
What happened ??
 
Rigsby said:
If ply is the way you are going to go take the ply just beyond the lintol, take the breathable felt just beyond the ply edge, take the expanded metal lath beyond the felt then use a base coat with polymer in it (sbr) and fully mesh it all taking the mesh beyond the expanded metal lathing which is only a render carrier.

On your render coat mesh again beyond the base coat mesh.
Click to expand...
I did this on a job few months back and when I went back to top there was a crack along the join, that's why I'm wanting to make sure it doesn't happen again. On other job I could put an expansion in but on mine I think it will ruin the appearance having an expansion cutting the house in two.
 
not being piccky mate but I would have toothed a couple of them blocks in on the right straight joint just to stop any premature cracking
 
madmonk said:
not being piccky mate but I would have toothed a couple of them blocks in on the right straight joint just to stop any premature cracking
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Yeah now I think about it it would have been better. Tbh I'm just at the stage now I want it done, builders doing it for free for me as he owes me a few favours but he's as busy as everyone else just now and it's dragging on. Due to get divorced if I don't get this finished next few weeks.
 
stuart23 said:
Yeah now I think about it it would have been better. Tbh I'm just at the stage now I want it done, builders doing it for free for me as he owes me a few favours but he's as busy as everyone else just now and it's dragging on. Due to get divorced if I don't get this finished next few weeks.
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So you'll be dragging it out for the next few months ;)
 
stuart23 said:
Yeah now I think about it it would have been better. Tbh I'm just at the stage now I want it done, builders doing it for free for me as he owes me a few favours but he's as busy as everyone else just now and it's dragging on. Due to get divorced if I don't get this finished next few weeks.
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fair enough mate
 
Just done one, we used 10mm hardi backer boards cut down to fit in and fixed with exact gap foam from toolstation, only needed one board...Rend Aid and Mesh over...didn't get any cracking.
 
FreeD said:
Just done one, we used 10mm hardi backer boards cut down to fit in and fixed with exact gap foam from toolstation, only needed one board...Rend Aid and Mesh over...didn't get any cracking.
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How far in did you position it?
 
FreeD said:
Just done one, we used 10mm hardi backer boards cut down to fit in and fixed with exact gap foam from toolstation, only needed one board...Rend Aid and Mesh over...didn't get any cracking.
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How did you fix to bottom of steel?
 
stuart23 said:
How far in did you position it?
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Set them flush, you need to pump a load of foam in, then get a batten across the middle of the lot, screw it either side to hold it all in position while going off. It sets rock hard.
 
See what your saying we didn't have to do the underside...but I guess you could use sticks like
 
stuart23 said:
Surely that wouldn't take the weight of 15mm parex?
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How else are you going to fix to the underside? you could use 6mm hardi backer, you need to use a strong glue and plenty of it, should be fine. It's only a small area.
 
FreeD said:
How else are you going to fix to the underside? you could use 6mm hardi backer, you need to use a strong glue and plenty of it, should be fine. It's only a small area.
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Fk knows, stage I'm at I'm willing to try anything
 
Use Hilti gx120 shots to fix to the steel. Get a dryliner to mf into the steel and then hardibacker/CP board. Rendaid and some mesh and bingo was his name o
 
stuart23 said:
View attachment 12577 Getting steels put in where bifold doors going on my house but due to a problem with sizes we have to use steel on the outside wall instead of a k9. What's the best way to prepare this for render so I don't get any cracks between steel and existing house? Builder talking about plying the steel then building paper and mesh, but I think I'll get a crack through time where it meets existing house. Expansion beads not an option because of where it is. I'll be finishing it in parex
Click to expand...
@Bauwer this is my house
 
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