Building control document and plaster requirement pls help

This looks fantastic.
I really liked your explanation below.

insulated plasterboard internal
screwed direct to structual stud
insulation between stud.
plywood glued and screwed externally.

external will be.
breather membane.
vertical studs nailed to ply into structual studs.
creating a cavity for air flow
insect mesh wrapped around top and bottom openings to prevent vermin.
then instead of eml and sand cement.
screw 12mm aqua panel direct to your vertical studs.
leave 4mm gap between each board and fill with acrylic mastic.( this will help with the building movement).
finally a 6mm render basecoat with a silicone decorative topcoat.



I do have questions about the bolded areas.

Insect mesh, what is that called and can i see what it looks like ?
12mm aqua panel, is that similar to hardie backer board ?
Finally, I understand 6mm basecoat, I tried to google silicone decorative topcoat, I was confused. Is that a top coat whereby no need to paint ? It comes coloured already ?

If so, I want something that I can paint as I want to explore colours and have more freedom. Also, the decorative topcoat, is it similar to K-rend, I heard that any cracks in the house becomes an eyesore at it has a bould/gouge etc, does decorative silicone topcoat exhibit same behavior ?

what colour would you like to explore? lol
20170630_124749.jpg
 
This looks fantastic.
I really liked your explanation below.

insulated plasterboard internal
screwed direct to structual stud
insulation between stud.
plywood glued and screwed externally.

external will be.
breather membane.
vertical studs nailed to ply into structual studs.
creating a cavity for air flow
insect mesh wrapped around top and bottom openings to prevent vermin.
then instead of eml and sand cement.
screw 12mm aqua panel direct to your vertical studs.
leave 4mm gap between each board and fill with acrylic mastic.( this will help with the building movement).
finally a 6mm render basecoat with a silicone decorative topcoat.



I do have questions about the bolded areas.

Insect mesh, what is that called and can i see what it looks like ?
12mm aqua panel, is that similar to hardie backer board ?
Finally, I understand 6mm basecoat, I tried to google silicone decorative topcoat, I was confused. Is that a top coat whereby no need to paint ? It comes coloured already ?

If so, I want something that I can paint as I want to explore colours and have more freedom. Also, the decorative topcoat, is it similar to K-rend, I heard that any cracks in the house becomes an eyesore at it has a bould/gouge etc, does decorative silicone topcoat exhibit same behavior ?


google insect mesh. it comes in various rolls upto 1m wide by 50m long.

aquapanel exterior. click the link on @Runswithscissors post where you will find info.

the topcoat is what i can describe as a silicone coloured paint with a 1.5mm aggregate which will give you the pattern
 
Paint delaminates needs maintaining re painting every year looks shite and is an ongoing cost!

Silicone coloured top coat is weatherproof anti cracking flexible and needs no maintaining, can be gently hosed down to clean, though you can still paint if you really desire if you ever want to change the colour further down the line!

The next most important step is to get a good renderer that is good at thin coat work!
 
Last edited:
Paint delaminates needs maintaining re painting every year looks shite and is an ongoing cost!

Silicone coloured top coat is weatherproof anti cracking flexible and needs no maintaining, can be gently hosed down to clean, though you can still paint if you really desire if you ever want to change the colour further down the line!

The next most important step is to get a good renderer that is good at thin coat work!

It's a very good system, but "needs no maintaining" just isn't true. I have yet to see any render that hasn't started to look shabby in 5-10 years. So whilst it requires less frequent attention still needs freshening.

There isn't an exterior finish, cladding, or building material that maintains it's look beyond 5-10 years. Pollution, exposure to the elements and UV all take their toll.
 
It's a very good system, but "needs no maintaining" just isn't true. I have yet to see any render that hasn't started to look shabby in 5-10 years. So whilst it requires less frequent attention still needs freshening.


There isn't an exterior finish, cladding, or building material that maintains it's look beyond 5-10 years. Pollution, exposure to the elements and UV all take their toll.

Don't confuse 1.5mm silicone top coats to mono totally different animal.

Mono IMO isn't suitable for our climate!

Silicone can be hosed clean, but yep totally get your point tbh I think all render is shite compared to stone or brick!

Its just a necessary evil to cover crap building practices IMO!
 
Very good people on here.

I now have the section sketch below, can someone kindly confirm if I have this correctly outlined ?

0
 
Can you see the attached sketch now, see below ?
Please let me know.
 

Attachments

  • unnamed.jpg
    unnamed.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 212
i would replace the riblath with 12mm render carrierboard and thincoat system

Thanks for this, I am considering it. Please do confirm that the sketch is correct.
Also, on the render carrierboard can one render it rather than thincoat ? I just like the flexibility of paint.
 
Thanks for this, I am considering it. Please do confirm that the sketch is correct.
Also, on the render carrierboard can one render it rather than thincoat ? I just like the flexibility of paint.
the buildup looks correct.

i wouldnt put anything else other than a thincoat system.

you can get the topcoat tinted to a colour of your choice...
 
If you have to do it that way then the render scratch will be at least 30mm thick with the mesh fixed over the 25mm batton , you know timber moves so cracking may happen.
But iff going that way i would mesh the ply then nail thinner slater batton over then mesh over that. Then sbr through all before scratch coating . But no guarantee it wont crack with timber moving .

Thin coat over render carrier board as mentioned would be less chance of cracking , but wood moves.
 
Can you see the attached sketch now, see below ?
Please let me know.

I wouldn't use WBP, the only difference between that and 'normal' ply is the adhesive used between the laminate layers. Because it uses thin layers of wood it's still prone to movement as @Smudger1 says.

A much better alternative is exterior grade OSB (Oriented Strand Board). Because it's made using a technique similar to fibreglass, where the wood is held together using resin rather than glue it's has way better dimensional stability than plywood.
 
Top