DIY render two storey house - finishing question

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simonc_s

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Hi
UNfortunately due to funds i have been forced down a path of rendering the house myself. Not my first time rendering, but never tackled something this big.
I am using ready mixed acrylic render - Rockcote Grey Render in a two coat process.(I tried one coat, but found the mortar joints still showed through)
The first coat (3-4mm) i do in stages (due to time allowance), not ideal as i get uneven surfaces where i meet the already dried render, and then at the weekend i do a whole wall all in one go for the 2nd coat (3-4mm). (i have the wife mix buckets for me). Based in Sydney - about 15-20c dry conditions.
I have a scaffold tower and am working top to bottom, then move the scaffold and repeat.
I am ok with getting an even spread, but just want some help with the finishing, especially where i get joins with already rendered parts, which are starting to dry.
I would like a dense smooth finish, not sandy.
I followed this video -
The issue i have is with using the polyreuthane float after i have used the straight edge
(https://www.bunnings.com.au/spear-jackson-280mm-lightweight-polyurethane-plasterers-float_p5960034)
It basically roughs up all the smooth surface i already had after troweling on.
The sponge is also great at getting out any imperfections but again it leaves a sandy finish.Are there specific sponges that work better than others? I also find it takes off too much render.
DO i basically skip these steps and just use a plastic float in a circular motion after using the straight edge?
I tried to use the end of a steel float to get a smooth finish on another test wall, but found i still had imperfections - could this be because my coats were two thin?

I am sure these are all newbie type questions, so would appreciate any guidance you can give, as unfortunately circumstances don't allow for a professional.

thanks
Simon
 
Break up the areas with timber battens...feather into your joins...then acrylic over the lot in one go.

As you know professionals will have a machine or several guys applying at speed to keep wet edges. As you are going down the DIY route you will have to except that the finished product is not going to look professional.
 
It baffles me why people say there's no budget left be patient save the money and allow a professional in to give you the finish you want before it gets done twice.
 
I applaud anyone trying to be self sufficient. Self building anything is rewarding.
But, if the best result you can get doing it yourself is going to be unacceptable, to you, then the prudent man would give best and hire in a professional. If you are prepared to put up with a less than professional look, then crack on.
Best of luck anyway.
 
Dropsalot said:
I applaud anyone trying to be self sufficient. Self building anything is rewarding.
But, if the best result you can get doing it yourself is going to be unacceptable, to you, then the prudent man would give best and hire in a professional. If you are prepared to put up with a less than professional look, then crack on.
Best of luck anyway.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with that... rendering is not for the feint hearted and even some "plasterers" struggle with it...
 
Agreed. It was never intended that i would do it, but we didn't get the financing that was expected, and we need to finish this to get out of the property. there is no waiting for some magic money to appear, which is why i need to make the best of it. Labout costs here are huge, I had quotes for about $15k.
I have completed the side of the house, and it is pretty good, but i know i could get better, which is why i am asking for tips before i start the front of the house. As i said, i am pretty good at getting a level finish, so i am not sure using battens would help. it's more about the finish and the overlapping render. I think i just need to go on slighlyt thicker with the 2nd coat ,and then after about 15mins to 30mins start with the plastic float, skipping the poly float as per the video.
Just wondering - saw an advert on here for speedskim - would this help just after the render is applied? or use a darby once it is a bit dryer, rather than just a straight edge?
As I said i hoping for any tips possible...
 
simonc_s said:
Agreed. It was never intended that i would do it, but we didn't get the financing that was expected, and we need to finish this to get out of the property. there is no waiting for some magic money to appear, which is why i need to make the best of it. Labout costs here are huge, I had quotes for about $15k.
I have completed the side of the house, and it is pretty good, but i know i could get better, which is why i am asking for tips before i start the front of the house. As i said, i am pretty good at getting a level finish, so i am not sure using battens would help. it's more about the finish and the overlapping render. I think i just need to go on slighlyt thicker with the 2nd coat ,and then after about 15mins to 30mins start with the plastic float, skipping the poly float as per the video.
Just wondering - saw an advert on here for speedskim - would this help just after the render is applied? or use a darby once it is a bit dryer, rather than just a straight edge?
As I said i hoping for any tips possible...
Click to expand...
It takes more than tips to be a plasterer.Give the trade a bit of respect you won't learn it by reading about it or watching videos.No offense but your only tormenting yourself and wasting time and money.
 
first coat examples
 

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2nd coat on the first wall. I think it's pretty good, no waves or difference in levels/thickness, but there are some minor trowel marks i would like to improve for the next walls
 

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Oh dear.
I don't think you've put enough on the matey.
As has been said, perhaps cladding of some sort will be a quick and less expensive way to smarten the property up before sale.
 
Fully rendered and painted, is very typical on modern houses in Sydney. Cladding is used but often by project builders. Cladding would not be a cheap option here.
I will try to put more render on the other walls, and i also have the option of using a fine coat render over the top of this wall, but i will try a sample on a practice wall that is going to be removed anyway.
I actually spoke with the technical line for the Rockcote product, and they suggested that is use a polysterene float for finishing rather than the plastic float, so i will give that a go as well.
 
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