Plasterboarding ceilings

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underwood

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Last year due to planning, we were unable to build an upstairs extension, we were told to put the rooms we needed in the garden, under PD. (4m high single storey) We are at the stage where we need to plasterboard the ceilings.


The roof trusses are set at 600mm centres and are 38mm thick. We asked for a local plasterer to come and give us a quote to do the entire job. Which he duly did, but said that the ceilings would have to double boarded, and sent us an excerpt from the ‘white book’. This seemed to suggest the same. But also in the white book not in load bearing ceilings it states that one sheet is OK, but that noggins would be needed to support the weight of the 12.5mm board.


We contacted the roofing company who made the trusses and they said they’d heard nothing like it before. We have spoken to contractors working on David Wilson Taylor wimpey homes, with similar sized roof truss and they said they were using 12.5mm and 15mm boards but no noggins were required.


Could anyone clarify what is the correct way to put up the plasterboards? As the quote tells us we are definitely going to have to do it ourselves.
Thanks in advance
 
If you use 15mm plasterboard, you don't technically need noggins, but I would still fix some. You need them around the perimeters of the rooms and at the board bound edges (every 1200mm) for what 2x2 costs, you'd be silly not to.
 
BTW. Fix the boards perpendicular to the trusses, with 6 or 7 screws across the board.
 
I take it you have a warm deck then rather than kingspan in between the joists.noggings are easy to fit,30 mins to an hour would sort it
 
Hi Tony

Thanks for that, I'm hoping to still use the 12.5mm (Just because of the weight) is that ok?
the perimeter is OK in that where we;ve put up the studding we have already put C16 either side. I was goint to fit 3x2 noggins in each alternate truss and a 1200mm noggin at the end of each sheet, ready to support the next.

Does this sound about right? I was hoping the 3x2 in between the 600mm spaces would then help to support both sheets next to each other?
Thanks again
 
Hi Johniosaif We have rock wool on chicken wire above the trusses. (Known fondly as the job of a 1000 lashes – but plenty of other names have been given mainly not so nice!!!). Is that a warm deck? – Not sure of ‘pro’s’ terms.

Firehand7 I got me a chop saw!!!!
 
Beddy, I have a big affliction, its a fact! - I'm a flicking woman, who's never done this before!!! - I may as well not have any arms. Big problem I suffer from OCD, so the bloody noggins have to fit perfectly...... I'll plod on!
 
underwood said:
Hi Johniosaif We have rock wool on chicken wire above the trusses. (Known fondly as the job of a 1000 lashes – but plenty of other names have been given mainly not so nice!!!). Is that a warm deck? – Not sure of ‘pro’s’ terms.

Firehand7 I got me a chop saw!!!!
Click to expand...
A warm deck is solid insulation on ply above the joists(hence warm deck) which leaves the joists internally free of insulation,the idea is to leave ventilation and not to lose height,if you have internal insulation you would normally leave 50 mm air gap between the roof and the joists when the ceiling is the top floor,
 
Ah! Got the termination wrong, Rockwool over the joists, (Which are the bottom rung of the trusses) - Sorry got it wrong. Unfortunately the trusses are and absolute nightmare, the roof space is only about 3ft, with a V in the middle, we would have put up celotex, but it was bloody impossible, we'd have had so many strips, it would have cost a fortune in the damn tape!!!!

We opted for Rockwool over chicken wire as it is to some degree flexible. So we've put up 370mm in the small space. (I say WE, but hubby decided it was a womans job!) - :RpS_laugh: I got my own back though, I was SO itchy I told him I needed some cream....

OK Guys are you ready for this? - He went out and bought me some aqueous cream, from THE POUND SHOP!:RpS_confused: He says he appreciates me though!
 
underwood said:
Hi Tony

Thanks for that, I'm hoping to still use the 12.5mm (Just because of the weight) is that ok?
the perimeter is OK in that where we;ve put up the studding we have already put C16 either side. I was goint to fit 3x2 noggins in each alternate truss and a 1200mm noggin at the end of each sheet, ready to support the next.

Does this sound about right? I was hoping the 3x2 in between the 600mm spaces would then help to support both sheets next to each other?
Thanks again
Click to expand...

The 1200mm noggin ? The boards should finish on the truss or cut it to fit and finish on the truss , then it would be noggings along the sides of the boards at 600mm long dunno if somebody has pointed that out or not ....
 
underwood said:
That assumes the cippies set the trusses at perfect 600 centres.... Guess what? - They didn't!:RpS_crying:
Click to expand...

Most wood is twisted plus they probably wouldn't have been as accurate as usual, as long as there are there abouts 600 then I would cut all Nogs at the same size then they will pull the joists in straight.

Good luck :)
 
CTPlastering said:
The 1200mm noggin ? The boards should finish on the truss or cut it to fit and finish on the truss , then it would be noggings along the sides of the boards at 600mm long dunno if somebody has pointed that out or not ....
Click to expand...

May I take a photo tomorrow, as there is no lecky there yet, only 1st fix. What we've done is basically (Perpendicular:RpS_wink:to the trusses) is measure from the first board to go down. Every other 600 middle support and outside edges.

Clearly do not know what I'm talking about, so would be so grateful if I could load a photo tomorrow as once you see it you'll either say 'uck a duck' that's cr@p or if I'm going to have a good day it may well be, 'Uck a duck, pluck it and make me a peking crispy, that is GOOD!'

Well you've got to hope haven't you?
 
[h=2]Noggins[/h][h=3]Bridging, Blocking & Herringbone struts[/h]Noggins, sometimes caled bridging or blocking are timbers used all over the place during first fix/structural carpentry to strengthen and stiffen wall, floor and other timber structures. They are also used to provide a strong fixing for something that will be later fixed to the structure. For example, you may place them when building an interior studwork wall in such a position as to provide a solid fixing for the toilet cistern or a radiator that will be installed later on.
Another area where bridging would be used would be in between ceiling or floor joists to fix top or bottom wall plates to. Or, in between studs/ceiling joists in order to fix plasterboard to.
[h=4]Cutting and fixing,[/h]Because lengths of timber are rarely perfectly straight, instead of taking a measurement from the exact position it will be situated between studs/joists, it's important to take the measurement at the end of those studs/joists instead.
For Example:
You are cutting blocking for a standard interior wall that will be fixed 1200mm up from the floor to strengthen the wall and provide a fixing for the edge of 1200mm wide sheets of plasterboard later on. You must take the measurements for the noggins inbetween the bottom of the studs where they are fixed to the plate, not at 1200mm high. You do this because it means when fixed in place the studs - no matter how bowed will then be forced straight and parallel.
[h=4]Normal noggin[/h]
Plasterboarding ceilings
Normal bridging in a wall like above would be fixed straight across, with the centres being 1200mm above the floor. One end can be nailed straight through from the back of the stud. The other end has to be skew nailed at an angle because the previous block is in the way of nailing.
[h=4]Staggered noggin[/h]
Plasterboarding ceilings
Staggered bridging can be used where the blocks don't have to carry the edges of a sheet material like plasterboard. Floor joists are one area where staggering the bridging would be OK. By staggering them you can install much quicker because you don't have to skew nail one end which is slightly more awkward and thus more time consuming. Both ends can be fixed straight through the back of the stud/joist.
 
As has just been said, work out how your boards are going to work across the the room squaring of your trusses not the walls then ping a chalk line down the the room for your noggins if the trusses are realy out you may find you have to plant some timber on them to pick the end of the boards up.we always cut boards into the wall cos something is normaly always out.
 
Oh!!!! Fick a duck I aint having any crispy tomorrow!

I'll load a photo and you can all have a laugh at my expense. I may have to go to 15mm after all!!:RpS_unsure:
 
Ah Ha! At least I put the screws in skew! I may looking at this actually have put in more noggins (Probably not in the right place!). But I think I got the perpendicular wrong........ I thought I'd be plasterboarding horizontally across the joist? so allowed my noggins that a way on.

I'll load a photo and hold the duck! I may actually not entirely stuffed it up:RpS_mellow:
 
underwood said:
Beddy, I have a big affliction, its a fact! - I'm a flicking woman, who's never done this before!!! - I may as well not have any arms. Big problem I suffer from OCD, so the bloody noggins have to fit perfectly...... I'll plod on!
Click to expand...

wondered why you got so many replies..........................:rolleyes)
 
Blimey, I didn't realise you needed a computer degree to upload photos, that's taken 15 noggins less!!

Here goes if I've got this right. - Roof space


Noggins


Not a very good diagram, but I'm no good with a camera either


Do I get my crispy duck?, or have I managed to make a right ducks ass of it?:RpS_blushing:
 
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