Quick bonding query

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no im not saying i know best , but i know rite from wrong and after 32 years of plastering i know a little bit about plastering
 
Casplas, how smooth do you leave your bonding?
Like feckin glass by the sounds of it!!
I've never devil floated bonding, just ruled off and scrape it before skimming.
We know bonding works on boards too, but you didn't describe how it gets in these perforations like skim does.....???
For the record there are no perforations in plasterboard.
There are fibres on the surface, hence they say not to skim boards that have got damp as the fibres will be flat to the board.
Which is a load of bollox as well!!


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And I'm not saying you are wrong, I key all my float coats, as it definitely helps, I'm saying that alone isn't why the plaster sticks is all! Esspecially when having to PVA the wall the next day to control suction as was in the case above.
 
Casplas, how smooth do you leave your bonding?
Like feckin glass by the sounds of it!!
I've never devil floated bonding, just ruled off and scrape it before skimming.
We know bonding works on boards too, but you didn't describe how it gets in these perforations like skim does.....???
For the record there are no perforations in plasterboard.
There are fibres on the surface, hence they say not to skim boards that have got damp as the fibres will be flat to the board.
Which is a load of bollox as well!!


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so when you bond a room out you dont devil float it? and yet again you believe it doesn't need a key ,plasterboards have perforations under a microscope , but i always devil float my backing coat i'm not saying i'm right or wrong but when you was taught did your mentor tell you not to rub up with a devil float ? your a so called tradesman and it's your choice your job and your name on the job , i couldnt give a toss about any of this carry on as you was , and yes all my backing are smooth and flat and need a key as i was taught and bonding is for use on low to medium suction backgrounds ,bonding as fine grains as well as thicker grains in its mixtures plus thermiculite to help with adhesion to none suction backgrounds
 
And I'm not saying you are wrong, I key all my float coats, as it definitely helps, I'm saying that alone isn't why the plaster sticks is all! Esspecially when having to PVA the wall the next day to control suction as was in the case above.
pva becomes your key if that's the case , i have misread some of this discussion sorry we/i have our wires crossed
 
so when you bond a room out you dont devil float it? and yet again you believe it doesn't need a key ,plasterboards have perforations under a microscope , but i always devil float my backing coat i'm not saying i'm right or wrong but when you was taught did your mentor tell you not to rub up with a devil float ? your a so called tradesman and it's your choice your job and your name on the job , i couldnt give a toss about any of this carry on as you was , and yes all my backing are smooth and flat and need a key as i was taught and bonding is for use on low to medium suction backgrounds ,bonding as fine grains as well as thicker grains in its mixtures plus thermiculite to help with adhesion to none suction backgrounds

I never really have the need to bond a room out, struggling to think of a scenario that would require it.

Under a microscope? So bonding goes in these does it?? Do me a favour.

My mentor did tell me to devil float yes, but experience on jobs and newer products mean I know more now than he did back then.

And since you brought it up its vermiculite that's in bonding, and perlite is used in most other gypsum backing plasters.



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I don't devil float myself, other thsn S&C ,I never leave bonding longer than overnight and rarely close in other than heavy lines. A float though through the action of floating will always make a panel/wall flatter than a trowell, this is the reason the sponge float works so well on heavy beads,frames etc.

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I never really have the need to bond a room out, struggling to think of a scenario that would require it.

Under a microscope? So bonding goes in these does it?? Do me a favour.

My mentor did tell me to devil float yes, but experience on jobs and newer products mean I know more now than he did back then.

And since you brought it up its vermiculite that's in bonding, and perlite is used in most other gypsum backing plasters.



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ok so i spelt something wrong ffs, you're the man!
 
Using bonding and hardwall as back coats sometimes I do key, sometimes not. Sometimes i have the perfect key by scraping it with the rule and the practice shows its enough. Sometimes, when I have to skim it next day I do the odd here and there key. I love to scrape the corners with the back of the trowel as leaves nice and clean lines and you can see it how opens the back coat and you don't need to dig any additional key into the wall.I think key for external render is a must as the weight is greater , but not with the thin coat sistems Never had a problem with both ways and it reminds me of the discussion sponge vs two coats and I have seen both in excellentexecutions and not able to tell which is which, which makes me think as long as it works for you it's fine . So, I think I am chancer on the lucky side, and it works for me:bananas::D
 
I remember bonding ceilings on new build hotels "jurys inn" about 15 years ago to be artexed.....240 rooms + stairs ....gang of us 2 lads coating 2 lads troweling behind 1 lad mixing 10/12 hours on stilts half our break.
uni bond on concrete the night before.
finish/bonding together 3 floors a day ....christ looking back im wondering if them donegal men are still alive !!!!
 
Don't bother scratching the bonding the day after. Just diluted pva as the lads have said and if your keen on scratching? ? Then have a good scratch of your ball sack while you wait for the pva to dry in. If your customer is a tasty MILF then get her to do the scratching of your taaters for you !? (y)
scratch & sniff is also a opportunity
 
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