Some help with dot and dab

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Paul1985

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Hi I have built a block outbuilding at the bottom of my garden. It is a project that I have done all the work my self to keep cost down. It is single 100mm block rendered sand and cement. It has a studded wall in side and plaster board ceiling these are all fine but the exterior wall I dot and dab on advice from some one who works in the trade (yer just dot and dab it be fine it's only a outbuilding) I can now see the dabs through the paint i now understand (after looking through on here) I have messed up and created cold spots every where. Before I rip it all of and try to figure out what I'm going to do is there any thing I can do put on or will air bricks or skiming it with any thing any advice I no picture isn't the best can get more if needed and when the dots show up more
 

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Sometimes it's false economy to do things by yourself as in this case it will cost you twice!? Whoever suggested dabbing those exterior walls needs a slap. Please get a professional in next time it will save you in the long term
 
That's kind of the conclusion I was coming to after reading posts on here thought I would ask though just in case. Thought about just putting bathroom cladding and some big mirror up but I'm assuming eventually it will blow the plaster board and possibly the dabs will become u stuck.
 
Paul1985 said:
That's kind of the conclusion I was coming to after reading posts on here thought I would ask though just in case. Thought about just putting bathroom cladding and some big mirror up but I'm assuming eventually it will blow the plaster board and possibly the dabs will become u stuck.
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You could hide it and it shouldn't fall off but may have a damp smell in the future.
 
I think it's definitely hasn't been false economy iv built a large block outbuild my self the walls the roof the electric how much would all the labour costs have been. I paid someone about 3 years ago to do a fence and they did one with the fence material money still going through court to get back. So I had to pay twice there works both ways . I took the project on as a learning curve. I took the advice of some one I thought knew what they was on about just like I'm hoping you guys know what your on about.

So back to topic I'm assuming I would have to hack it all off before putting timber up and can't put it over the top and screw in to the dab incase they become lose is this correct.
 
flynnyman said:
You could hide it and it shouldn't fall off but may have a damp smell in the future.
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I did think that even with screwing timber to what is there I might still get the damp smell. It is just a place for my daughter to practice gymnastics in. Our house is small and she's got a lot of equipment.
 
It might be for gymnastics now but in a few years she will be in there with her mates Chilling so think long term, either do it now or in the future.
 
flynnyman said:
It might be for gymnastics now but in a few years she will be in there with her mates Chilling so think long term, either do it now or in the future.
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Long term I hope to move in about 5 years but I do understand what your saying. It's best to sort now whilst nothing is in there yet and I can get in. What's the best way to sort it And stop it if I start over
 
Paul1985 said:
Long term I hope to move in about 5 years but I do understand what your saying. It's best to sort now whilst nothing is in there yet and I can get in. What's the best way to sort it And stop it if I start over
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When you come to sell it will be noticed best to take it off batton, insulate and board.
 
If you don't want to remove everything you could stick insulated plasterboard over the lot with pink grip dry fix . (After testing with one board first)
Although this is a bit of a cover up job it will give you extra insulation and stop any dabs showing through.
 
flynnyman said:
When you come to sell it will be noticed best to take it off batton, insulate and board.
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Would I have to use something like a vapour barrier. And would it be best to use insulated board or put insulation between the battens put normal board on top.
 
duke163 said:
If you don't want to remove everything you could stick insulated plasterboard over the lot with pink grip dry fix . (After testing with one board first)
Although this is a bit of a cover up job it will give you extra insulation and stop any dabs showing through.
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Will it smell damp or would this cure it what's pink grip dry fix could the damp spots not then transfer through the pink grip
 
Fairplay for doing it yourself and if the advice you had been given was right it would have worked ok... SO its going to cost another £100 at most and some of your time... no hardship...

I do all my work on my cars... not much difference
 
Danny said:
Fairplay for doing it yourself and if the advice you had been given was right it would have worked ok... SO its going to cost another £100 at most and some of your time... no hardship...

I do all my work on my cars... not much difference
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I like trying to do things If I think I'm capable could always come in useful later on in life a least I know not to dot a dab on out side walls lol. Think the biggest annoying thing it was almost done iv been working on it for about 6 months on most weekends. I wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have pillars in the walls and it was just a straight run
 
Paul1985 said:
I like trying to do things If I think I'm capable could always come in useful later on in life a least I know not to dot a dab on out side walls lol. Think the biggest annoying thing it was almost done iv been working on it for about 6 months on most weekends. I wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have pillars in the walls and it was just a straight run
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yup I am with you on this one :D

I taught myself to tig weld a couple of years ago and the right thing to do would be to pay my mate an engineer but the point is I wanted to do it :D Is it perfect.. nope!!! but its good enough for me... my next one I build will be tip top :D
 
Danny said:
Fairplay for doing it yourself and if the advice you had been given was right it would have worked ok... SO its going to cost another £100 at most and some of your time... no hardship...

I do all my work on my cars... not much difference
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Gonna cost a bit more than £100
 
Danny said:
Fairplay for doing it yourself and if the advice you had been given was right it would have worked ok... SO its going to cost another £100 at most and some of your time... no hardship...

I do all my work on my cars... not much difference
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£100 :risas:
 
The cold spots are caused half the time through the left over mortar on the internal side like flynnyman says though kinspan and stud walls your only option of saving it
 
I am thinking of doing what flynnyman says. But doing a little bit more thinking is there any thing I can do on the exterior wall which is sand and cement render at the moment maybe insulation on the out side would this cost more tho.
 
Paul1985 said:
I am thinking of doing what flynnyman says. But doing a little bit more thinking is there any thing I can do on the exterior wall which is sand and cement render at the moment maybe insulation on the out side would this cost more tho.
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It would work but I think the damage may be done, it would cost a lot more and need more skill .
 
I don't think there's any need to take it further than flynnyman option your going into another ball game getting external insulation boards then re rendering costs will be high
 
Paul1985 said:
I am thinking of doing what flynnyman says. But doing a little bit more thinking is there any thing I can do on the exterior wall which is sand and cement render at the moment maybe insulation on the out side would this cost more tho.
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Oh and that has got to be the first time I've ever read on here "I am thinking of doing what flynnyman says" :)
 
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