Speed fitting angle beads!

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Nisus

Nisus

Elite Member
My mate gave me a can of this yesterday just for general use,
he said it's good stuff.
Anyway i said wonder if it'll stick beads on.
So i tried it today & it worked :RpS_thumbup:
Spray the back of angle bead/stop bead & spray the wall when it's touch dry a few seconds later press into place & it's instantly fixed:RpS_cool:
I tried getting it off with a scraper & it wouldn't move:-0
Works on plasterboard aswell:RpS_thumbup:
Fastest way i've ever put beads up!!
I'll be using this all the time now :RpS_thumbsup:

No more fixing beads with skim or nails or gripfill for me!!:RpS_biggrin:

Speed fitting angle beads!
 
Do you reckon it would be any good for sticking plastic mono beads outside as ive got a job coming up, 30 piers.
 
Casper said:
Cheers mate. Gonna get a can and try it :RpS_thumbup:
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You'll love it mate :RpS_biggrin:

Wonder how many peeps have been buying cans of this today :RpS_biggrin:

Everbuild do one aswell saw this one at £3.90 :RpS_thumbup:

Speed fitting angle beads!
 
this stuff used to be a tenner a tin....
tried beads with it years ago but i found it didnt go far, and for a tenner a tin...

tis quick though, ill give you that.... i'd sort of run round cuttin and sprayin em up, then back round again stickin em on...
gotta make sure you get the corners bang on first time though cos once its got it, its bloody well got it... hence 'contact' adhesive...

cheapo gripfill will do the same job in the same way, though it takes a little longer to go off a bit... run a bead of gripfill up the back of the thincoat bead, press it on and pull it off... leave it for a bit then go back and restick it.... should have it...

to be honest though, i find gripfill holds em from wet anyway.... time youve prepped everything else.... no worries...

you know that glazing tape they use on dg units? they do a thin version of it.. call it 'trim tape' its usually white...

does anyone else, whenever theyre knocking up any bonding, stick the beads on with it and fill it out both sides so you can easy one shot the lot even on reskims?
 
Nah if I'm going for a oner I use a thicker mix & just fill the beads & tapes out with skim first then hit the wall/ceiling :RpS_wink:
 
You mean the paper tape with metal strips?
Nah but I have been using the paper tape recently over bad cracks as scrim these days is shite!!
Paper tape is a lot stronger.
 
had a result today was speaking to me bro and saying bout this thread and he said hes got tones of the stuff as hes a joiner so he will give me a box of it from the warehouse wen the boss aint looking haha :RpS_sneaky:
 
jrplastering said:
had a result today was speaking to me bro and saying bout this thread and he said hes got tones of the stuff as hes a joiner so he will give me a box of it from the warehouse wen the boss aint looking haha :RpS_sneaky:
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Nice one :RpS_thumbup:
How much you gonna sell it for each can??:RpS_biggrin:
 
a 1-er a can should cover it haha inflation and all that :RpS_laugh:
how many comes in a box do you know im not sure how many im getting he said a box full so how ever many that is
 
be about 12 innit... good for nowt though, if i could get em for nowt id use it all the time...
cheapo gripfills only a quid a tube from the local 'cheap sh'tty tools' depo though...
 
Chris W said:
work alright then? paper tape? not bubble up or owt?
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Dontt work with finish mate, normal paper or reinforced it wil just bubble up, when tape and jointing with it just run the knife down once with a bit of gear on it or the same will happen.
 
Chris W said:
work alright then? paper tape? not bubble up or owt?
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Not if you dip it in water mate!
I used some over some cracks where it had been plastered over a blocked up door way the bloke said originally he had boarded the inside of the door casing, so the timber edge was showing before he had it plastered last time.
So I sealed it with some pva then I cut the paper tape to size put it in a bucket of water knocked up a bit of skim run it over the cracks then shook the water off the tape & put the tape into the plaster then ran the trowel down it then used excess to cover over the tape then let it set.
Then pva'd the wall & skimmed no cracks or bubbles:RpS_thumbup:
Wouldn't use it all the time, but for certain jobs:RpS_thumbup:
 
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nice tip...
pain them boarded up doors....
what i do, if i get to board the bugger up that is..
ive got a little dewalt 'trimsaw' the cordless circular...
run it round the doorliner 1/2" in, take the corners out with chisel...
run the board past the liner into the plaster, in fact screw the edges into the liner..
scrim it...
might try the paper trick though... guessing it works like building paper?

god we had shitloads of 'serving hatches' to do on the council thing... first off, just board it and bollox to the timber edge...
clerk come down on us for it, but it was the 'chippies' than had to board it up...
me being me... paid twice... :RpS_sneaky:
 
Yeah or just rip the fecker out & put studs in:RpS_biggrin:
In my house i've got the glass above the door frames upstairs & I've took the glass out & plasterboarded it flush with the wall to skim it, but still got the timber edge, in one room I used scrim & a as I thought it cracked.
In another room I used paper tape & it's never cracked:RpS_thumbup:
 
done the missus hallway..
done the nip the doorliner back trick...
front room theres still a door behind the book case, doesnt go anywhere though... :RpS_laugh:
big job is the front room though.... 45 degree full height slope ceiling incorporating staircase ballustrading overlooking front room...
nightmare what to do with it...
 
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