Recent content by currymunster

Next job has lots of little sections. Pulling off pebble dash. Lots of sections inside fake timber. Timber frame made out of render. Some need repairing. I'll post a picture if I can

Thanks, I assume it's just mix and go. Scratch coat first like S&C then final coat. Day between?...5 days? Dampen down before. How long to finish final coat before it's dried too far. I assume it has waterproof and retarder and in already? Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to modernise my...

Looks like water is leaking behind somewhere. Don't just do it again until the leak is found and corrected or you'll be in the same position again later. Judging by the fact that there is no corner on the fascia board I would check water is not blowing in there and then down the cavity or...

Hi everyone, Been living in the past with sand and cement but I think it's now time I tried a bagged option What's the options for something that's similar to sand and cement for a plain face finish. Was looking at Weber OCR but that says it's good for a base cost. Can you use it as two...

in an ideal world i'd love to strip it back and start fresh with a better system but my hands are tied by the company that owns the hall. at the moment they have just asked for breathable plaster. If, as I suspect, it is of 1980's construction then the sand and cement render will have some...

Looks like this limelite is the stuff to use then The customer did not want me to remove the float coat(looks like sand and cement) So, as they have asked for breathable can I just use the limelite skim over this background?

No idea what you are trying to say here, was thinking the shakey face was because you are scared of Jess!.......lol

Hi everyone. Unique job this one. I don't want to discuss damp proofing or stopping damp as this is not going to happen. This is a listed public hall that is built into a cliff in the Victorian times. Lime plaster is not necessary for the listed side of things. The customer is asking for a...

I've never actually owned or used a Darby. Funny how we stick with what we know. Guy I learnt with didn't like them for some reason. I must open my mind and buy one.....lol

That's okay, no dramas, I guess that if you haven't bought one in twenty years then you've not experienced the crap quality. Unless the type you buy are just better. I'd be interested to see what type you buy. I've had this type featheredge my whole career. Never bent one till the quality issue...

Hey, I looked at Taylor's, they are just a builders merchant selling tools. As per usual the description is very limited and the picture only shows the front side. No brand.... No details of build quality and it's extremely cheap. Unfortunately, without knowing the details I'm not going to spend...

Not heard of Taylor's, I'll check them out, as far as the sharpness..... The photo makes it look worse, and if rather a slight radius and last longer.....FFS Still some absolute crap out there. As far as OX goes, I won't touch with a barge pole. Had a trowel off them. The handle started to...

I looked at those but noticed they are a V blade and I needed a square joint. I've done the job now and just cut them out like a quoin system. I then cut a strip of polyfloat to 38mm wide and 10mm thick and screwed it to the centre of another polyfloat. Seemed to work okay. Thanks

Having been a plasterer for 30 years I have experienced some tools and their quality. For some time now I've been exasperated by the build quality of feather edges. They bend so quick. I then noticed the strengthening rib down the centre is now not there, I've searched for years. I go through do...