i dunno but we just had the whole house removed of this stuff and it was 5 days work in total. an absolute nightmare. the bricks were mostly ok but the odd face would come off. from the fragments it's basically a concrete with 2-4mm aggregate and texture appears to be cement slapped on like...
side light always shows up defects but this looks terrible for daylight. when it's not up to scratch it doesn't make that much difference how bad it is if it has to be redone or vacate the room to sand + fill the crap out of it
Essentially don't. you are looking at a solution rather than the problem.chemical DPC is expensive, never considers the underlying cause = usless and likely to be damaging to old properties.
just looking….there is a method for repairing movement cracks from weber:
https://www.uk.weber/weber-guides-you-through-repairing-fine-cracks-monocouche-render
Nah there’s no official requirement with non combustibles just stove guidance. The HETAS guy sourced an appropriate burner with back flue which pushes it forward 300mm from the back wall.
While not ideal size . With a stove fan to improve circulation it works very well
Yes, exposed bricks on inside the chamber but for the back. I used a 20mm vermiculite board fas an insulator as the back chimney wall single skin = heatloss outside.. Stuck to the back bricks with fire grade adhesive and sprayed black with stove paint.
I did think about doing the inside but...
Hempcrete is a great material for garden rooms. You need much reduced amount of timber for load bearing the roof and will need some sheet material for the temporary shuttering which is moved around as you construct (can be old damaged boards)
Completely fireproof and at the right thickness...
Lime putty based coat is prefect option for fireplaces. It tolerates heat and you can finish with a very fine plaster for very little material costs.
My 1930s fireplace had a 70s treatment with a brick heath which was soaking due to a cement and DPM.
I took it back down below the floor level...
another alternative is to use a product like diathonite or another insulating plaster. I've used it to fill in pretty hefty holes up to 60mm depth - can apply two coats to make it even thicker.
Very east to use
How thick is it? I would just wet it well, harl it and then build up with a specified lime system. A lime supplier would be able to give you a spec given the thickness and estimate the number of tubs of material for a palette delivery
a fairly standard spec is 3mm harling, 15ml haired mortar...
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