Basecoat for thincoat feedback

orangemesh

New Member
Hi, I'm a customer not a plasterer, can I get some feedback on the base coat, a silicone thin coat that I've just had done please? I'm DIY savvy but I know when to leave a job to a pro. I selected the materials due to the solid brick walls and my requirement for anthracite topcoat colour - which limited the manufacturers available.

Materials: EWI PRO, render only.

I requested based on advice from EWI PRO technical:
> universal primer
> 10mm beads, 6mm of 269 lightweight, breathable.
> 3-4mm of 225 premium full mesh embedded
> primer
> 1.5mm top coat

I tried to get an EWI PRO accredited person/company to do the job but I couldn't find one in the area that was interested, so I went with a guy that's a full time plasterer mostly interiors but some rendering experience, 10 years in the job. Good reviews online.

The guy said that he'd prefer adding another layer of 225 on top of the meshed
layer, so the premium is around 6-7mm in depth. Another person at EWI Technical said that this would be ok.

I think that he's rushed the job. The 225 mesh and additional 225 were applied two around 26m2 on a hot day
It's already cracked in places on one wall, presumably due to the sun. He didn't cover it up despite me leaving a tarpaulin and nails in the wall to hang it from, from when I covered up the 269.

I've since read on this forum that the important thing when dealing with a thin coat render is to ensure that the walls are flat. Currently aren't due to excess parts, crude sponging and hollow dips in certain areas.

I already had to deal with about 5 issues from the first stage. He added bellcast beads to the sides of the patio doors instead of stop beads and a stop bead on the dpc. When I pointed this out he claimed that they were stop beads. He changed them but then I discovered that they weren't flush to the wall, there was an unnecessary gap of around 8mm in places. I had to hammer off the base coat around the beads and reattach them correctly. Also the top bead wasn't square. Some of the beads elsewhere didn't align with each other.

There are two places around widows where he hasn't added any 225. He said that he'd add a quick drying material prior to priming.

He is saying that it will be fine once the top coat is on. The top coat is only 1.5mm. I can't see how that can be possible. A turd covered in glitter may be a sparkly turd but it's still shaped like the turd nonetheless. It seems to be substandard work to me, am I correct?

Can you offer any advice on how to improve the situation before it's too late please? Sand down the excess areas and then a very thin coat to level the non level areas?

It's only letting me attach 10 photos but I could show at least 50 examples. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

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The root of all the problems is quite clearly YOU.
YOU chose to use someone who, by your own admission, isn't a renderer.
YOU chose what materials to use, rather than find a quality renderer and then listen to what materials they would use.
If no local renderers were interested in the job after talking to you then my guess is that it was YOU that put them off the job.
I hope that helps.
 
The root of all the problems is quite clearly YOU.
YOU chose to use someone who, by your own admission, isn't a renderer.
YOU chose what materials to use, rather than find a quality renderer and then listen to what materials they would use.
If no local renderers were interested in the job after talking to you then my guess is that it was YOU that put them off the job.
I hope that helps.

You may be right. I choose the guy, that's on me, but it's not that he'd never rendered before. He has done full houses. It's just that the majority of his work is internal. I should have waited 3 or more months for the the best local guys to become available. That's on me for sure.

I asked EWI PRO for recommended suppliers and they only provided me with two options. One didn't operate in my area and the other one asked for photos of the site and didn't get back to me.

It's not that local non-EWI renderers weren't interested, I received 4 quotes. One guy quoting that had lots of EWI expereince but he was double the price of the other quotes. . I would have like to go with him but I couldn't afford it. The other quotes were inline with what checkatrader estimates the higherend ballpark figure for silicone rendering to be per m2.

The big constraint was the anthracite colour. That colour wasn't available in the product that the guy uses. It isn't available as an option with many manufacturers. This is why I choose EWI because they did and I selected the materials based on their techincal support teams' advice.

EWI isn't a small outfit or a dodgy product. The guy that did the work blamed the product. Clearly I should have held out for someone with EWI experience but the guy that took the job said that he'd have no trouble working with it.

Anyone else with feedback on how to make the best of the current state?
 
this has been laid on too thick and then yried to trowel.

the 225.is sticky as its an adhesive basecoat. so trying to trowel when its curing will cause it to tear.
method.of application isnt correct
 
Plastering and rendering are two completely different trades,just cause one has dabbled in it doesn’t make him any good


I appreciate the feedback. Lesson learnt. My bad for making the wrong choice. Is this standard level work or substandard? I know what good plastering looks like but I don't know what good rendering should look like at this stage. I'm guessing that it's not this.
 

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this has been laid on too thick and then yried to trowel.

the 225.is sticky as its an adhesive basecoat. so trying to trowel when its curing will cause it to tear.
method.of application isnt correct
Thanks, I appreicate it. Can you offer any advice on how to make the most of the situation please? Sand down the excess and fill in the divets? Can the cracks be sealed with a very thin coat?
 
Hi, I'm a customer not a plasterer, can I get some feedback on the base coat, a silicone thin coat that I've just had done please? I'm DIY savvy but I know when to leave a job to a pro. I selected the materials due to the solid brick walls and my requirement for anthracite topcoat colour - which limited the manufacturers available.

Materials: EWI PRO, render only.

I requested based on advice from EWI PRO technical:
> universal primer
> 10mm beads, 6mm of 269 lightweight, breathable.
> 3-4mm of 225 premium full mesh embedded
> primer
> 1.5mm top coat

I tried to get an EWI PRO accredited person/company to do the job but I couldn't find one in the area that was interested, so I went with a guy that's a full time plasterer mostly interiors but some rendering experience, 10 years in the job. Good reviews online.

The guy said that he'd prefer adding another layer of 225 on top of the meshed
layer, so the premium is around 6-7mm in depth. Another person at EWI Technical said that this would be ok.

I think that he's rushed the job. The 225 mesh and additional 225 were applied two around 26m2 on a hot day
It's already cracked in places on one wall, presumably due to the sun. He didn't cover it up despite me leaving a tarpaulin and nails in the wall to hang it from, from when I covered up the 269.

I've since read on this forum that the important thing when dealing with a thin coat render is to ensure that the walls are flat. Currently aren't due to excess parts, crude sponging and hollow dips in certain areas.

I already had to deal with about 5 issues from the first stage. He added bellcast beads to the sides of the patio doors instead of stop beads and a stop bead on the dpc. When I pointed this out he claimed that they were stop beads. He changed them but then I discovered that they weren't flush to the wall, there was an unnecessary gap of around 8mm in places. I had to hammer off the base coat around the beads and reattach them correctly. Also the top bead wasn't square. Some of the beads elsewhere didn't align with each other.

There are two places around widows where he hasn't added any 225. He said that he'd add a quick drying material prior to priming.

He is saying that it will be fine once the top coat is on. The top coat is only 1.5mm. I can't see how that can be possible. A turd covered in glitter may be a sparkly turd but it's still shaped like the turd nonetheless. It seems to be substandard work to me, am I correct?

Can you offer any advice on how to improve the situation before it's too late please? Sand down the excess areas and then a very thin coat to level the non level areas?

It's only letting me attach 10 photos but I could show at least 50 examples. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Stop him now before he wastes anymore gear
Clearly hasn’t a clue
 
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