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You can paint over it but you will be best contacting the manufacturer for what type of paint and ordinary masonry paint will not work, it will need to acrylic or silicone based to match the tc15.

Tacky for me or even wet.

If it is flat then a thin coat render and mesh.

No, you need even suction throughout. Zero suction will cause slumps and will end up being a mess.

I had the same with a Jub thin coat job, two adjacent wall 90 degrees to one another and the same batch number but no, the bitch was adamant it was two shades! Pointed out the sun is on one bleeding wall the other is in the twatting shade and buggered off. Never work for single women there is...

Its Paul Mann’s old machine, always breaking down, even for me on the one day I gave him a hand. It was a blown fuse that day. He went back to hand applicatio, it did his nut in. Worked with my old Ritmo this week, lad got it primed and as soon as I went to turn it on that broke down as well...

Rossi46, I know the history or your machine and it went through a few tubes for some unknown reason, even Les couldn’t find the answer. Its cursed! I suggest you get two, always have a back up.

I have used one this week on Jub Carbon Base. Finishes it a treat but tiring to the arms.

I am looking for a texture gun preferably a PFT Swing set up with remote lead.

What you did was make it polymer modified but it will suck. I did it once but the suction was in my favour and so was the polymer. That was back in the day when people wanted silicone but sand and cement prices but this House had structural movement so sand and cement mixed with sbr on sbr...

I thinks its been done when they washed it down. Stergene hand wool wash detergent and a soft brush. Pre wet first, apply and soft brushing but do not let it dry, rinse off with clean water.

Yes 4mm fibre mesh but I prefer 6 to 10 mm .

Looks like water has got to it.

Yes paint it on and you can add 5% water. It jelly like so not bad to use but if it gets into woodgrain plastic and dries you are done for. Cover up well.

Loos like you have had ivy growing. Remove all flaking paint then get a modern render that will adhere to your paint. Parex Parinter is one , Fassa K Over is another and incorporate mesh throughout and if you want it bullet proof pin the mesh back as well. Finish with a silicone render.

What Bauwer product?

I bead up to anything that is flexible so that includes soffits, sills but on window and door frames there usually isn’t enough room because the angle bead wing takes up most of the reveal so I cut a 1mm gap out between the render and frame with a small tool and silicone after..

If its sand and cement you are using then Rendagrip will work a treat. It will kill most of the suction but not all which is good for a bit of grab but still manageable. Apply it the day before it has to be dry.

35 35kg bag?

The beading is to a poor standard but being a garden wall that too will have been built all wrong for a render so this is just the start of your problems. I stopped doing garden walls, not worth the hassle when the phone rings after the first winter.

Yes but the block joints might show through.

I have worked usually 2 + 1 as I once put the gun down to rule and spat then picked the gun up and it had blocked. So one spraying one ruling, meshing and rule, spat. The lab is the lab and usually too thick to monitor the Ritmo and diagnose, cure any problems so when the bleeding Ritmo throws a...

I went to Les to learn how to set up my Monojet. Forgot everything by the time I got home. I ended colour coding the pipes so I knew what went where. Then there is things like how to get up and running fast if you run out of water. Thats not on the training course. How to tackle a blockage etc...

well you might do if you are new to machine rendering. Lots of human error to learn but you get there in the end. Make sure you keep rodding the airline in the gun, that causes plenty of breakdowns with newbies.

Awkward with a scratch pad as you get straight lines. I use the back edge of a trowel to square and anything that can fit the narrow gap if there is an opener.

7.5 newt blocks can be 4:1 scratch or weaker but 3.5 would be 5:1 at the strogest and thermalites I would use redagrip.

It was everything that moved in water including another part that rarely goes wrong and the water pump but it did include a full service. After learning how to proper flush it out I never had any issues.

Get it on early but I always used accelerator even in summer with Parex as my men wanted overtime rates after 4pm. In my early days I knackered my Ritmo up good and proper with Wickes but that was because I didn’t fully flush it out which needs a bit of knowledge to do properly but since it was...

Is the op referring to bucket coat or thin coat render like Lac? If he is talking about thin coat rendering not bucket material then the Eze24 but then that machine will do both render and bucket. Even if he rubs bucket up he can still spray it on.

Johnstones is a good price. Atlas Avail is usually cheaper and all are good to a point, but I find the cheaper bucket material more gritty and the more expensive stuff finer to use. My favourite is Jub but mid priced.

ok, just adjusting but hope to be back on the tools next month.

no ex Mono jet and Ritmo owner, now semi retired, sold up and work labour only as and when.

If its just mono then 3 phrase is the way but you need room, ramps, maybe a winch and muscle as they weigh 240kg and generator can be 200kg But if you can do that you can go high, far and fast which if you had a Ritmo , after a year or two of experience you will want to go faster.

20m2 at the most and either a PFT Ritmo or Mtec 200 but I would be swayed to most likely PFT unless I am near Cheltenham.

I am the same, mention ‘budget’ and its down to the cheapest gets it. I do price but as I don’t stand a chance I price generously. You might be good, be fully insured, gives detailed quotes and invoices, takes bacs, full documented warranty and employ legitimately but the cash in hand , no...

Put a first pass on very tight and bed your mesh in then put your straight edge over the beads to make sure you are being the beads. Then slap on your second pass. You may get the blockwork joints showing through more so when it is damp so tell your customer this.

As Dollar, membrane and I would suggest stopping 150mm above ground, well designed copings with a dpc under them but even then you have no dpc installed but you could install a chemical one. Garden walls are very problematic and unless you have it writing that nothing can be guaranteed avoid.

And you need a big compressor to go with it,

As the mucky1 says but you might find as soon as you have opened it up with the ibar the surface soon dries, so don't go too before you get the plastic float on it. Also watch the bottom of the wall for holding water, it can easily become scoured.

I have done it and there is quite a bit of key to start with.

Imo yes, its the same chemical formula. Look at the label but if I remember right Parex’s was 1 litre per six bags but this will all depend on the strength of that particular product.

Make sure it is a rendering sand and cement from the likes of K Rend, Weber, Parex, Johnstones, Fassa and a few more, not pre mixed sand and cement from the likes of B&Q. If your friend is thinking of conventional sand and cement then no.

As Owls has said rend aid and ocr but maybe expansion beads on any joints and make sure your substrate is clean. Garden wall are usually troublesome so avoid any warranty.

Its needs to fully hydrate but in the summer with dry air it can be a week, colder months needs 2. Rush it and you risk bubbleing.

I used Feb Rendamix which is similar and I used 250ml which is your average baby bottle.

I worked for me against sun, wind and rain.

Thats a good idea, the wheelie bin!

You could use Scaffold debris netting instead of hessian. Get the 3m wide roll, plenty on ebay. Give it all a wet down but don't drown it or you will have problems at the bottom. So long as its not in the sun or dry breeze you will be ok. You can cover it up as you go with the debris netting if...