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Most garden walls fail as FreeD says, But if you want to have a go use bagged render it is easier to spread for a novice. Weber ocr is eassy to use and Johnstones even easier.

Rendering garden walls usually ends up failing but if want to have a go give it a base coat of Weber Rend-aid then Weber pral m.

As Tom above said.

Pagets Builders Merchants in Sheffield (Broadfield Rd) did hav a Spanish tanking render in for such a job, it was vapour and waterproof. iIt was about 10 years ago so I don’t know if they still sell it.

Give it a fungicide wash and if its a modern render then a base coat like rend aid or micrgobetis to kill and even the suction. Round my way a whole Council got a modern render and dash over the old but the base coat was fully meshed and pinned.

As above but maybe put some sbr in.

As Owls above has said, you need to clean the paint first then give it a coat of Parex Parinter Full meshed. You can try and leave it flat then either paint it or apply a silicone render on top of it. But it will probably crack on the panel joints and there will be other problems to overcome...

Priming it you will be safe but not priming it is a gamble. But the base and top are light colours unlike a grey base and white top so don’t worry too much if they dont do it.

Probably the gun that has a build up, give it a good filing.

It is usually colour coded to match your silicone. The reason is as you rub it up the aggregate rolls on the base and when it is all dried there is a risk of the base coat colour showing through the scratches.

If you use paint then Rendit can supply and Parex do a colour wash. Jub revitacolor is good as well. These paints come very thick and need watering down a lot if it is to be a colour wash and not look painted. I have added 40% water to jub and it was still a bit like paint.

Almost self isolating, have been for a while. Long story and a bit personal but I am ok thanks.

If you can get parex Parmurex that is waterproof, just add water, mix and apply in layers.

I have some here in Sheffield. Its concrete retarder and I put 500ml in a 300 litre bin and it took 3 days to set in late November.

I take them off and refit but in my small print I state it is expected that all outside fittings (electrical, satellite dishes, ornamental etc) should be removed prior to work commencing but we will remove as long as the client accepts responsibility for loss or damage. With ewi I list what...

Mono is too troublesome silicone is more reliable.

Quite a few using Johnstones in Sheffield. The ocr is good for pointing.

We all have some problems in life, my probably only issue was going cold turkey on Setraline, massive headaches! So coming off Nicotine, alcohol, drug etc can be a challenge but t usually ends up on the positive side. Good luck with it.

Its too thin and probably was done on a soaking wet wall. A high performance silicone paint will sort it.

A Rossi says they all tear or sponge up crap. I developed a technique of applying flat and smooth as I could wet and dealt with getting it smooth when set. More labour intensive but better results. For arm ache I got the lab to do scraping and grinding, save yer joints wear out someone else’s lol.

Every manufacturer does an equivalent like Webers is their Lac, K Rend HPX etc. I found Maite the worst to use but I also stopped sponging, instead spat flat then next morning I use a rasp type trowel from pft North to get any lines out.

No Weber ocr but I have done it in pral. Bit lumpier with pral.

The wall with the trellis is a modernish render But bite the bullet and have it all redone.

Shouldn’t need it but if you want it to be extra sound then yes. Sbr cement slurry for s&c rendaid or equivalent for ocr..

At this time of year you will be struggling with setting times, sliding and sagging. I would do two coats in either s&c or ocr letting the scratch coat cure fully and the second coat being 6mm with Wickes hardener added. It will rub up full of water though so different to summer conditions...

4:1 is too strong it will probably craze. 5:1 scratch sharp sand. 5-6:1 second coat with 1 of the sand soft. Let the scratch fully cure. Better still use a modern render like a base coat then ocr. Garden walls are usually built wrong for rendering and are problematic. I stopped doing them, not...

Only just seen this post, yes I know of rained off plasterer renderers who would have been available.

Do you still have the Mai G4? A machine not talked about much in the UK

SAS probead may have some but most likely 120 degrees. I don't like using stop too easy to get a vertical crack down the stop edge if it gets knocked. Cut the wing off an angle bead.

You will have most likely have used an air entrainer in the mix which so long as the mortar had got to an initial set it would act as a frostproofer as it will in its cured state for life. I have had two walls from the 90’s that froze solid within 24 hours of application and they are still...

Be an even better job if he bedded mesh into the HPX. Maybe stress patches also around the openings in the top coat, but if he is diy stress patches could bite him in the butt.

I have always liked the XL. A modern version of the Monojet. A G4 and Ritmo combined. I would like to know what it can spray on 240v. But I think there is only 2 in the country so it might be worth looking on the German ebay sites. The bad side is gravity feed and its priming and setting up...

Getting back to the question? Do you mean a 50mm board that gives the same ‘u’ value as 90 eps?

I remember Gibbo doing 90m2 on a Saturday morning on his tod. years ago though. Marmorit as I remember.

As Gibbo below/above says. I bed the mesh in lightly then spat over just hard enough to cover the mesh.

I would address the cause of the damp first and then consider iwi. But if it needs to be ewi how about a solid insulated render system like Bauwer?

In winter I do the two day method with all the effort in making it flat as on day one with a tight coat over on day two. Doing it in one on a cold damp day canmake it sag, wave and slide. Bit different in summer with dry air.

Yes, Stuart welcomed me to spend a day learning how to apply a full Santane system back in the L&D forum days.

Yes the joint! How many bricky’s cut the gobbo to maintain the drip?

lol. Jonesy gave you a run for your money. good days.

A good bricky would have a dpc under the copings although they would need to be big and heavy to stay put. There was a concrete furniture manufacturer here in Sheffield and they had moulds in stock of various sizes and had in stock heavy concrete copings with a good 40mm overhang with decent...

PFT Northern Ltd.

Use Weber pr Johnstones one coat render for both the rendering and tyroleaning. mix the tyrolean mix very wet and keep stirring.

Meant luck not look, grammar police and all that.

Garden walls are always built wrong as to regarding rendering and this one is no exception. No dpc, tanking behind and inadequate copings. At a chance you might have some look with a polymer modified render but those copings need improving.

The white is flint and the brown is Barleycorn but there is some grey in the mix. Looking in my Derbyshire Aggregate sample box it looks like Harvest spar.

As mentioned above send a picture to Derbyshire Aggregates Ltd at Youlgreave . I have used that particular dash but forgot the name but it is a Derbyshire Spar product. It is the white pebble in it you need to get right right as they make similar but use different white stones so maybe ask for...

If you watch Judge Rinder it shows that everything needs to be in writing and with proof of being read and accepted. Dates, what you are going to do in detail, what is expected of the customer (water, power etc) and terms of payment as a minimum. Little things like allowing for extra time due...

Temperatures are dropping from Wednesday so on rendaid late spray and overnight.

Happy New Year Gary, hope it all goes well.