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fair play mate, wish i had read that before about tc15 on boards haha... oh well, like i said, plenty worse things in the world so life goes on, im there tomorrow so will see and update

know what you saying mate but he wants it right, and if ive done it wrong then i cant argue. if i had have used hpx for example i would prob stand my ground abit saying i cant help cracks but if the jobs done wrong i cant argue. i wouldnt leave a customer like it so certainly wouldnt do it to...

funny you say that, we done an EWI job once, then someone hit it with a digger.... went to look at the damage and he goes "bit of filler and paint aint it? no big deal dunno why the customers so annoyed" haha

I am putting it right so no need to sound so righteous!! not like i started rendering onto cardboard or something, it seems that many people would have done the same as me, using hp12 and many wouldn't put it right either. I understand i was wrong, i put my hand up, and was looking for advice...

yeh im half expecting it will f**k the board, just gotta see how it come off first, but im also wondering where to go from here once its off. so its about 140m job, everywhere has been beaded and base coated but only the back top coated. cant do just the back in tc15 that looks s**t so not sure...

what i mean is, im thinking trying to hack off the k1, then use hpx to build out to the beads, meaning it will be about 4-5mm hp12 then 7-8mm hpx then tc15 but wondering if that will also be too heavy

surely if K1 is too heavy, going over the top will be more weight no? i was wondering about trying to hack off the top coat, then go over with hpx fully meshed, then tc15. my concern was how well the HP12 has stuck to the board and again was wondering how much weight is too much weight as it...

so what would you suggest?

seems there are conflicting opinions, and funnily enough he asked two people who said "they've used the wrong product we never do that"..... which didnt help haha. but everyone is so righteous and perfect not many will say yeh thats what we do after they see a problem

well, spoke with rend it today and as someone said above they said hp12 then k1 is too heavy for cement fibre board, should use hpx then the TC15. ive never heard that and done a few cement board jobs never had a problem. so i feel like a useless c**t and probably look like a cowboy to a good...

my last job..... cant write it can ya!! will call mend it today as that looks like the best option, just worrying about colour differences so dunno whether to get the whole job done then coat it all maybe, will see what they say

na based in norfolk mate will call them today thanks

will go over it with that then. you think if i go over it with that and fully mesh again we shouldnt have problems in the future?

they come and repair cracks? awesome. how do they do it out of interest? no i didnt, by that comment im guessing i should have done, never done it before and never had a problem. but if it my fault its my fault....but just want to resolve the problem agree mate..... thats why ive decided to...

the rear is timber the rest is block, and customer wanted k1 finish... but im starting to agree with you about render lol. as a matter of fact this is my last job... im doing other bits, but its turning into a nightmare yet on the k rend spec sheet it sayins hp12 on cement fiber board...

Hello, Im hoping you guys can offer some advice, we rendered this 2 months ago and today the customer calls as there are cracks appearing, two large cracks, very straight ones. It was on a timber frame, with cement board. we base coated it with hp12 and fully meshed it, then K1 spray to top...

just wondering what everyone does for their stop beads along dpc to get them perfectly straight? or does everyone put a drip bead along dpc? we have tried everything, but whenever you wink it down at eye level (granted nobody does this) but it looks wavy as fudge. we use a level, have tried a...

yeh i was wondering if it would do liquid screed thats all, i guess not, not surprising as the screed machines all look much bigger, but my mate said their machine was tiny. with bagged screed it wouldnt be financially viable, was hoping it would pump liquid screed. never mind

We have an M200, and a mate of mine just had his floor screeded and im sure ive read that the m200 will pump floor screed, wondered if anyone has done it? Good points and bad points? I take it i would need a different rotor? Im building a house next year which i cant afford so would like to try...

We were plugged directly into a site box (big transformer) which was coming from the consumer unit via armoured cable. Which i thought was pretty direct. I still think the machine should just come with a geni (not saying for free, but as a package)

A few weeks ago, we bought an M200 from Plasterers one stop shop. Ryan was super helpful from the get go, i rung up on a wed, picked the machine up Friday and they managed to squeeze our training in last minute. Anyway, we got to site on the Monday, and ive had the worst 2 weeks of my life...