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That’s the way we normally do over insulation. Although over mineral wool we find leaving the first coat overnight is better

With some systems we do like krend and weatherby etc where the basecoat gets floated. This one is a sto system which just gets finished with a spat. We’ve found the thinner the last pass is the easier it is to achieve this. To be honest being up in Scotland sto suits us better as you can be...

Definitely I’m not moaning in the slightest, I was just more curious to know what the projects we where on are worth etc, didn’t realise there was as much money involved if they could nearly double a rate instantly over a phone call. At only 28 you never know what the future holds and knowing...

Been doing thin coat systems predominantly for the better part of 2 years now and when on pricework we have always been happy and earned well. Especially being books in and have a van fuel card holidays etc. Normally when we go onto block work it’s 10mm of basecoat in 2 passes is the spec. We...

We had one of the polish squads in our work do a dryvit job, think the topcoat is 0.8 someone mentioned. It looks horrendous, every single bit where the basecoat wasn’t perfectly flat looked like a bald spot/miss

We left it overnight to scratch back in the morning, think the wind got to it, so can’t really give a fair review on it as we had the ibars screaming at us but got there in the end

Heck ED the topcoat was wetherby supplied. If it’s on top of their k+a adhesive base coat they say you don’t have to prime. Our boss can be over the top in terms of primers, bonding agents, stress patches etc when they are not specified. So he also got the primer, older boy that works with us...

Although we did do an Aldi with heck/wetherby with their additive and it was still not fully gone after 2 days

We have been using the sto qs topcoat on our sites since early October and have only had 1 wash off, think the gear is pricey though

For sure, that's 80 percent of the work we do. It's the clients preference for this job. Looking on webers site this is exactly what this product is designed for and can also be used for dry dash, ashlar and a roughcast finish.

Has anyone got any experience using this monocuche on mineral wool? The boarding we are going over isn't the best and we have been told by our boss to bed the mesh In the first pass, leave it overnight then go back next day and carry on as normal. Every weber spec I've seen says to do the 2...

Yes thats what I mean quotes are for labour + materials, so price of materials doesn't come into it as its the customer who pays for them. I also only ever used bagged wet dash and found the job not so bad. Then went to give an older plasterer a hand one weekend and he had 2 cement mixers doing...

I've been plastering 8/9 years now and up here in Scotland we still dry dash loads. I've never used anything but a bagged dashed reciever, mostly white or buff colour. Some of the cheaper brands are only £6 a bag and you can cover 2m2 with them. Customer pays for materials anyway.

When going over blockwork we leave a gap for mastic, when going over insulation we use a bead from sto that acts as the mastic line. Sure they are called perfect seal beads. The ones you attach the window protection to then they snap off

The company we work for always want the reveals with a stop bead against the window. We don't mind it as it doubles the linear metre price for beading each window.

Been asked to price up going over a bungalow which has a sort of concrete panel construction, similar to garages etc. I was thinking a good bonding agent followed by a high polymer basecoat (hp12 pr 14 etc) fully meshed and pinned followed by the top coat the customer would like. I have...

Once we get a look at what the work is for the next few months that might be the route we go down, although I much prefer doing thincoat over eps/wool, easier money haha

Like the look of that, will go and give the local Romanian car washers a visit, the baths great until we get to the bottom white it isn't flat, so paddle isn't getting into those areas

What's everyone using for mixing 10/12 bags of basecoat and monocuche? We mainly do thin coat jobs and just mix in the big refina tubs and that goes a decent area over mineral wool etc, but recently have been doing a bit of monocuche and thin coat over blockwork, feel like we are constantly...

It's to replace a rail system that had failed, I think they've just went overkill because of that. Taking forever pinning it with 2 men

This is our usual spec but they want 2 rows of 4 instead of the 2

8 per square metre is what we normally do, the usual fixing pattern we use it 2 in the middle of the board and where each board meets

None atall, and to make it worse it massive washers aswell

To be fair it is ridiculously windy working there but still thought it was overkill

It's a sto system but I believe it the engineers spec, its 2 rows of 4 in the middle then one where every board meets. I don't really do much boarding, mostly just the render but to kick-start bigger jobs we jump on at the start.

Currently on a job where the spec is 14 fixings per board after being stuck on with adhesive. Feels like it's taking us forever, has anyone else done any this excessive or is it more common than I think? 600 x 1200 boards.

Appreciate that mate, we have white, beige and grey for different houses so will keep that in mind

Perfect mate, did you have to leave it long before dashing? It's just small retirement bungalows we are on so aren't massive areas

I've used there dry dash reciever before but never the wet dash one. Looking forward to it to be honest, seems to be going to be alot easier just adding water than mixing up myself

Has anyone used the above material. Only ever used sand and cement for wet dash. We are starting a site of bungalows tommorow and are just wondering how the material is. The wet dash comes premixed in a bag, just add water.

They never seem to be in stock, had a look at them. Probably just go with refina again by the looks of it

Fair enough

Anyone recommend a decent spat that will last a while for thin coat, will be used nearly everyday so looking for something a bit more durable than the usual I pick up at the merchants etc.

Not even tried the topcoat yet, it was the base/level coat. Think it says k systems insulated facade on the bag, sort of pink/red band round it. That's good to know it was just us that thought this

Been working for a render company full time since march/April. Mostly thin coat on schools/hospitals etc and the odd new build housing site. 80% of the jobs we've been using sto and the rest dryvit qnd jub. Currently using krend onto boards and it's been horrible to work with. Just wondering if...

I agree with that 1, tried them a few times but always went back to the old trusted one. I will keep my eye out for the nela, worth a try

I find them to be solid compared to the sto ones

Thanks mate, will give it a go

Always used qn old sto plastic float for rubbing up thin coat render, had its best days and can't seen to find the same one online. Any ideas where I could pick one up or an alternative similar?

Its all already know knocked back etc for us. I was thinking going down the tape route, to be honest it's the first time I've ever hadto patch monocuche. And hopefully the last

Tried that mate buy as we are employed we have to do what we are told to a certain extent. It's crazy as sometimes we patch 5m2 of a 10m2 panel the other times we will redo a full area for one hole in a wall. If we don't agree we normally just make sure we exchange messages stating why we don't...

Has anyone got any tips for blending in? In an ideal world I would prefer to do whole panels but we do insurance reinstatements that are dictated by a surveyor.

That's what rowebb the merchants recommended, just heard mixed reviews, good to know someone uses it regularly with success though. Do you use a base coat first, rather than the one coat? Just wondering as it's a scratch render, I base coated the parex the day before, seemed to work well that way

Not sure if it's different in scotland but when I did my apprenticeship through citb (only timeserved 2 years) we did 14 weeks in our first year and 10 weeks in our second year, in 2 week college blocks then the rest on site. Then our 3rd and 4th year was all on site then a practical skills...

@bobski really appreciate the feedback with the parex. Whole job went perfect from start to finish. Even had the joy of q sunny day so it pulled in quickly to get a float on it too which is unusual up here in April.

Appreciate the feedback mate, might give this a go if I can get a hold of it.

Is that the parex monorex by any chance? Another plasterer I work with mentioned that?

Can anyone recommend a decent through coloured render that can be floated then sponge finished. As most of our work up here is dry dash we normally just use the dash receiver for reveals and under the bell cast etc but wouldnt fancy using it over a decent sized area. My usual merchants reckon...

Cheers malc, one of my neighbours tried this but to be honest it removed quite alot of the chips. He got a company in to clean it with a solution, whether or not that was the problem in not sure. I'm In the West Coast of Scotland, heavy rain and wind constantly, so render never stays looking...

Not posted for a while. Bought my house 9 years ago, ewi was done 11/12 years ago and the dry dash finish could be doing with a freshing up in the next couple of years. I've overcoated plenty of dry dash with enewalls exposed aggregate top coat and the stone pack equivalent. So there's no...