Advice needed on these walls

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

Steve28

New Member
How would you take on these garage walls if they needed plastering? If possible I would like to avoid boarding it out.
There are no signs of damp, they are single brick thick exterior walls.
This is my garage and would like to get it make it into a gym as I never use it as an actual garage.
 
to me thats got 'garage conversion' written all over it..
and what id do is 'board it out'..easier, quicker, cleaner, gives you the added benefit of being able to comply with current building regs by studding it and adding insulation (cellotex etc)...same with the floor (cellotex, 18/22mm chipboard)
plus id brick the door up (usually needs a footing) and put a window in the front..
dunno how far you wanna take it but if you dont wanna board it, bond it cos render wont stick...but if you bond it expect damp to come through cos its gonna be a single skin..stud it off and you avoid that problem...
if you wanna put 'fixings' in the wall, the way i'd do it is to work out where you wanna put your fixings and incorporate studwork before you board it...
do it the proper way and you need a building application (get a form from local council) costs a percentage of the job (tell em its 200 quid) youlll pay under 100 quid for them to inspect footing/insulation etc...
id do the electrics too...needs a spark with part p though...new ring innit...
easy job if you know wot your doin, i used to charge 4 grand with 2 double sockets, light pendant and a rad (taken off from house), finished in about 6 days...
do it on your own itll take longer but you pay about a grand maybe 1200 inc materials and sparky...
 
Alright Steve,

Looks exactly the same as my garage did before I turned it into a gym. I didn't plaster it, just painted the existing brickwork several times and tidied everything up a bit. If I knew how to put images on here I would show you how it looks at the moment.

Once I've got a bit of time on my hands I intend to board and skim it. I don't intend on using batons etc as I it's quite narrow and I don't want to lose too much space. One thing I would bear in mind though is sound levels. I usually train with music blaring which is bad enough. The main problem though is the speedball I set up as it sounds like some boy racers bass box!

Insulation would improve this situation but like I say, don't want to lose too much space. I have a small heater in there which I switch on during the winter about 20 mins before I train and that takes the edge off the cold. At the end of the day if it's just a gym you don't want to be spending a fortune on it. Just my opinion mind :)
 
that is begging to be boarded mate.
the walls dont look too straight so wet plastering it would be extra work and prob more cost.
do ceilling first then dot and dab walls. would look like some1 else's when you done
 
I dont want to spend long doing it or a lot of money doing it, I was just wanting to tidy it up slightly and make it a nice place to train, I wasn't really wanting to board it because it would be a hassle where the window is concerned I think.
I want to be able to keep it with the garage door on so If i sell the house it always has the option of being used as a garage, I was thinking of putting a partition wall with a door in a few feet from the garage door so I can store all my tools behind it out the way (I have a side entrance door).
So do you think that bonding and skimming would be acceptable?
 
i agree with the others best to board it with it being single skim.

i you did render it a sbr cement slurry splaterdash will give a key to render too but as said you will open yourself up to damp problems
 
i'm with bigsegs on this one, you can still do it on budget, an extra room will always add value to a house.
 
to do this job right you need to create a cavity to stop penatrating damp problems so either delta pt or gypliner are the best options, done loads and id personally use gypliner
 
if you don't want to board it mate and the bricks in good nick i.e no cracks you could give all the painted areas a going over with a wire brush, give it a coat of sbr slurry and lay your scratch coat into it while it's tacky,then give it a float finished coat after, you could leave a 2" gap at the bottom just incase any damp sits in the brick and finish it with a bit of skirting again just slightly off the deck
 
I was gonna suggest that nicksey oh well you beat me to it :) but boarding would be a tidier job plus it could be a place to sleep when you get kicked out ;D
 
yeh i agrre mate i'd go with what murph said and the other lads a cavity'll help in the long run and won't crack!!
 
If you look closely at the pciture with the window on it, how would I plasterboard this without losing most of the window frame. (do you know what I mean or not?!!!)
I do not want to replace the window, I just intend to sand the frame and re spray it and replace the panes as this is only going to cost me £25 and I want it done as cheap as possible.
 
If you look closely at the pciture with the window on it, how would I plasterboard this without losing most of the window frame. (do you know what I mean or not?!!!)
I do not want to replace the window, I just intend to sand the frame and re spray it and replace the panes as this is only going to cost me £25 and I want it done as cheap as possible.
Click to expand...

i think i understand

go with 9.5mm board inside the window recess then u would not lose as much frame if u used 12.5mm
 
If you look closely at the pciture with the window on it, how would I plasterboard this without losing most of the window frame. (do you know what I mean or not?!!!)
I do not want to replace the window, I just intend to sand the frame and re spray it and replace the panes as this is only going to cost me £25 and I want it done as cheap as possible.
Click to expand...


9mm board, use a 4mm tilers trowel to spread a thin layer of board adhesive and stick the board down

9mm board.. 4mm trowel at 45 degress will leave a 2mm thick bed of adhesive, and the skim, say 3mm?


so 15mm in total, will that height stick over the edge of the frame covering the glass? looks like you've got an inch or so should be ok :cool:
 
If you look closely at the pciture with the window on it, how would I plasterboard this without losing most of the window frame. (do you know what I mean or not?!!!)
I do not want to replace the window, I just intend to sand the frame and re spray it and replace the panes as this is only going to cost me £25 and I want it done as cheap as possible.
Click to expand...

or slap a 5mm bond coat then tight skim. to see more of the frame ?
 
If you look closely at the pciture with the window on it, how would I plasterboard this without losing most of the window frame. (do you know what I mean or not?!!!)
I do not want to replace the window, I just intend to sand the frame and re spray it and replace the panes as this is only going to cost me £25 and I want it done as cheap as possible.
Click to expand...

or slap 5mm bonding and a tight skim in the recess which will show even more window frame !! :)
 
I agree. If you board the walls and overlap the board by say 10mm at the reveals etc then you can fill the reveals and use the board to rule off from. Then bead the corners and skim the walls and reveals. You'd never know!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top