Advice needed please

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Right guys just been to look at this job (Pics below) which came as a recommendation, me and Steve will probably jump on it later in the year, all going well.

The existing render was put on 8 years ago and looks shocking hence the guy wants something doing with it. Ill be going back next week to measure up properly as was strapped for time today.

The current render has no beads what so ever, not that theres anything wrong with that but the damp cse and lead lines are bad, its covered in cracks but solid no hollows, and is covered in black staining mold maybe !!

The pictures below really are to show the black staining as ive never come across it, its not just in one place its pretty wide spread, my initial thoughts were where its was more exposed to the elements but its round the back also which is pretty sheltered. !!! Anyone have any thoughts as to what would cause the black staining ?? And what would you treat it with ??

Hes asked me to quote a couple of different options, Im thinking its a hack off re scratch and top / Hack off to scratch and providing this is sound re scratch and top / or as they're not bothered weather its smooth or stipple, im thinking providing its sound all over, treat the mold and Tyrolean.

Any thoughts on how to treat this staining, then what option would you try and push to the customer ? All options are doable for me its the staining im more concerned about.

Advice needed please


Advice needed please


Advice needed please


Advice needed please


Advice needed please


Advice needed please


Advice needed please
 
Is this a solid wall house? It looks like it is in a damp area with little ventilation but those rings could have been there from when it was rubbed up. Also going up the middle of the gable, on the inside is there a chimney breast?
 
Rigsby said:
Is this a solid wall house? It looks like it is in a damp area with little ventilation but those rings could have been there from when it was rubbed up. Also going up the middle of the gable, on the inside is there a chimney breast?
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Yes mate solid wall construction, like i said i need to go back next week to go over it, but it was mentioned today that a chimney breast has been removed previously. Also on two of the pictures of the gable side you can clearly see damp holding around the ridge line.
 
If the render is as bad as you say aiborne ,is it water/moisture getting into the cracks in the render , and if the existing render has waterproofer in it there's no where for it to dry especially in this cold weather,but agree it is a puzzler.
 
I suggested EWI mate but the only system im familiar with is Knauf thermoshell, i don't think they would pay for it also. The woman said maybe have that on the more exposed areas and tyro the rest, but the husband wants it all the same regardless of which option. Can you tyro onto the insulation or will it only take thin coat ?
 
Just looks like mould, treat with a fungicidal wash/bleach.

I did one similar to that a few years ago fungicidal washed it until black mould disappeared, then stabilising solution on top of the powdery masonry paint, then customer wanted high build stipple finish, looked like tyro when done, Ideal over cracks aswell :RpS_thumbup:

But, if your gonna hack it all off....
 
It,s not the lack of over hang on the gable roof line ,the picture with the window in ,if you look to the roof line ,has next door built theirs out ?,and it so is their wall as bad ? hard to work out from the picture ,it could just be staining ,:RpS_unsure: it would be a worry to redo it all and it comes back :RpS_crying:
 
Probably done last time with a strong mix and waterproofing additive. The wall is covered in cracks so moisture has collected behind the render which is struggling to dissipate. It may not have 'blown' yet but its only time.
A damp wall is a cold wall so this could be causing penetrating damp and or condensation / mould issues on the inside surfaces.
If an EWI system is out of the question, Have a look at Parex Parinter. This render is designed to cover old render saving all the knocking off. Cracks are gone - wall dries out ( about nine months for a 9 inch wall) end of problem. If theres any money - left sell them some internal wall insulation.
 
Airborne said:
I suggested EWI mate but the only system im familiar with is Knauf thermoshell, i don't think they would pay for it also. The woman said maybe have that on the more exposed areas and tyro the rest, but the husband wants it all the same regardless of which option. Can you tyro onto the insulation or will it only take thin coat ?
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im no expert mate but I would think a tryolean coat would deffo be ok, its where its tight on the roof line under windows etc id struggle but they'd be getting it covered with zero chance of ut coming back, you create a cavity and it gets insulated
 
If it is SW construction, then you may have to bring the building up to current thermal/insulation regs, esp if you're doing works to 30% of the building exterior. Check local planning for this.

This may has been achieved internally, in which case no EWI needed.

I would however suggest the use of a low grade/inexpensive insulation board,(as a render carrier board) , ie 20mm EPS, and then scrim and mesh followed by whatever top coat is required - this will save some prep work ie hacking off and scratch and rubble removal etc.

Re the staining, i have seen this before, but only where oil based masonry paint is used, which i assume is preventing moisture dispersion from the wall? Just a thought!
 
Jasper would you just dab them with maite and how do you get over the tight
roof lines on the gable etc?
airbourne what are you planning on replacing it with I'd be a bit worried about it happening again
 
spunky said:
Jasper would you just dab them with maite and how do you get over the tight
roof lines on the gable etc?
airbourne what are you planning on replacing it with I'd be a bit worried about it happening again
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Just dry fix the eps, no need to dab unless your levelling out. For eaves and any other tight margins, i would use a powder coated ali verge trim to cap the insulation and the render. This is fixed directly to the underside of the roofline and sealed.
 
as said above, for me its a paint issue.
and again as said above, fix 20-30mm eps with mechanical fixings aswell as an adhesive such as maite or sm700, then either acrylic it or a lightweight mineral render to your desired texture or finish.
if your just going down the parinter route, the substrate will need to be spotless and would require all the elevations cleaning under pressure with lanko mousse or the like.
to be fair there looks enough scope on your lines for 30mm or so.
 
The walls cant breath and thats it needs at least 6 vents put in the exterior walls even if the cavity is narrow ,and when i say cavity go inside and knock a brick out and you will see if its built like i think ? check with them if they have had there central heating system uprated in the last few years ...
 
If the chimney breast was external and the new render was put on sooty walls then that will bleed through. Been there before.
 
spunky said:
airbourne what are you planning on replacing it with I'd be a bit worried about it happening again
Click to expand...

Cheers for all the replys guys. Spunky haven't a clue at the minute, not quite sure how far they want to go funds wise as it was only done 8 yrs ago, will suss it at the week end. Im happy to use what ever system if im honest, my main concern like you say is weather the staining comes back on top of what ive done.

Rigsby i dont think its soot mate as its all over the house not just on the gable wall.
 
From memeory last time I checked any overcladding using EPS will need to be min 30mm board anything thinner should only be used on revs etc as to sustain any intergrity an EWI cladding system needs a 30mm board or above. should be very quick on these elevations but my personal opinion is that if you are going to insulate you might as well go with current good values meaning you will need a much thicker board.

Its a damp wall and as mentioned the mold is probably manifesting in the surface/paintwork - i bet if you had a flat blade behind the paint the whole thing would strip off in sheets ? ?
in which case parinter system is no good.
 
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