An Idiots guide please...

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Morning lads, just got a call from a loyal customer - wants me to pebble dash the front of his conservatory to match the house.

The area we are talking about is minimal - 2 breeze block faces about 2 foot wide by 8 foot high either side of patio doors - thats it.

Never done it before and told him so but as it was such a small area he said that he was confident I could do it

So whats the approach ? Scratch coat then top coat and throw the pebbles into the top coat whilst its still wet ?? Bit of plasterboard over the windows to protect them ?? Do I bead corners (the returns into the patio doors) or not

Cheers
 
give it a scratch 1 night on the way home. waterproof and feb. having enough waterproofer is essensial.free hand corners. whilst doing this put small holes in the bottom of the bags of stones and stick a hose in or chuck buckets of water in until the water runs clear.

couple of days later, knock up and put a tight coat over a panel, mix 2 sharp, 2 soft, 1 cement or similar, then a 2nd tight coat. 3rd - half a bucket of stones. harling trowel. flick away. u need to freehand corners and hold a straightedge up to the first corner when u throw the stones. make sure the gear is wet when u throw stones. then apply gear to the return as neat as u can freehand, no straightedge, and throw carefully at the corner. face the corner and throw at it, not next to wall throwing at it as u will push the corner off. when done, get ur float and lightly pat the stones to make sure they have held properly.
 
get some cementone freeflow this plasticier waterproofer and retarder made for this application
 
A GUIDE TO PEBBLE DASHING​

this is the way i do it, there are more ways and this is just one of them.
i have not included mix ratios as it is best if you decide for your self ;D (i think most people use a 4-1 or something like that, i prefer something else ;D)

right first things first, it is best to have a good scaffold as you need to get to all of the wall easily (and quite quick if the sun comes out). i prefer not to use a tower if you are doing a full wall and not just a panel or a bay.
next thing is to remove all of the down spouts and waste pipes, some plasterers like to leave the down spouts on if it is a big wall as you can hide a joint behind them but i would recommend that if the wall is to big then just get more men in to do the work.

with all that done you can now bead up, put all the bell-cast beads on and the corner beads (IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THEM) most plasterers will never use corner beads as they do not offer enough depth for the stones to sit in the sand and cement and this will cause bald spots down the corners, but you can use the plastic external corner beads as they have plenty of room for the stones ;)
now the next stage is the scratch coat, this should be mixed with waterproofer to the maximum amount stated on the tub (trust me if there is only you doing the plastering and throwing the stones this will help allot). when scratch coating try to fill out your bellcast bead so that when you top coat you get an even amount all over the wall and the bellcast is not built out in the top coat, as when you throw the stones this will stop the sagging. also if you are using the plastic beads make sure you only cover the wings of the bead.
let this scratch coat dry out.

now for the top coat, you can go around and cover all the windows if you are not that conferdent at throwing the stones. you should start on the opposite wall to where the sun is shining and try to complete each wall before the sun comes round. soak the wall with a hose pipe first then when you look at the wall you will notice a glisten on the surface from the water, once the glisten has gone you can start to put the top coat on, some plasterers like to use lime in the top coat to give a lighter background to the finished job, when the top coat is on you should rule the wall with the feather edge and fill out all the hollows until the surface is full and flat. once done you should put down sheets at the bottom of the wall to catch all the stones that dont stick, all your stones should be in buckets on the scaffold and the ground where you are working (they should have been washed and dried out in the sun a day before).
now start throwing the stones, you use the flick of the wrist, its all in the flick of you wrist when dashing load the scoop up and then sort of shake it to level the stone of then throw straight at the wall I've seen guys throwing with the scoop at an angle and it looks awful, if you throw them too hard then you will cause the topcoat to move and sag, you only want to throw them so they stick to the wall as you can press them in with a clean float to make sure they stay on. to throw the stones you should use a hurling trowel but i have used my bucket trowel when i have been caught short, i have even seen guys using the tow of there trowel. be sure to throw plenty of stones at the wall (i throw about three trowelfuls at each spot) as bald spots will ruin the job.

now go and pick all of the stones up from the sheets, these should all be washed and dried out fore the next wall.

if there is no other way and you have to put a joint in the wall and there is no down spout, you should try and make it as short as possible like between windows also if you do the joint in a zig zag it will be less noticeable. but i would avoid this at all costs, just get more hands on the job.

oh and i almost forgot if you are not using corner beads then you will need to hold a straight edge to the corner of the wall and hold it so that it comes out just past your topcoat, this way when throwing the stones you wont knock the corner out of shape.

also this might be a good time to mention that there are all different types and grades of stones and also different types of colours for the sand and cement (colours work best with white cement) so dont be afraid to experiment, gold stones took nice on gold/buff coloured cement or black and white on white cement etc etc....

hope this helps

oh and i will say it again, there are lots of ways to pebble dash, this is just the way i do it ;)
 
Don't think this was mentioned but its all in the flick of you wrist when dashing load the scoop up and then sort of shake it to level the stone of then throw straight at the wall I've seen guys throwing with the scoop at an angle and it looks awfull
 
kirk just a quickie about the dont skim ceilings with your gob open thing it shouldnt matter coz if your decking/stilts are set to the right height ie your hand shud just fit above your head from tip of fingers to wrist you then shud never be skimming above your head and will always be looking forward without the need to look upwards therefore not hurting neck and if any does drop it will do so harmlessly in front of you does yor book not tell you this
 
rockhardsolidplastering said:
kirk just a quickie about the dont skim ceilings with your gob open thing it shouldnt matter coz if your decking/stilts are set to the right height ie your hand shud just fit above your head from tip of fingers to wrist you then shud never be skimming above your head and will always be looking forward without the need to look upwards therefore not hurting neck and if any does drop it will do so harmlessly in front of you does yor book not tell you this

:o yaaaawwwwnnnn :o
 
steve cov said:
rockhardsolidplastering said:
kirk just a quickie about the dont skim ceilings with your gob open thing it shouldnt matter coz if your decking/stilts are set to the right height ie your hand shud just fit above your head from tip of fingers to wrist you then shud never be skimming above your head and will always be looking forward without the need to look upwards therefore not hurting neck and if any does drop it will do so harmlessly in front of you does yor book not tell you this

:o yaaaawwwwnnnn :o

nowt wrong with trying to teach young uns the right way to do things
 
rockhardsolidplastering said:
kirk just a quickie about the dont skim ceilings with your gob open thing it shouldnt matter coz if your decking/stilts are set to the right height ie your hand shud just fit above your head from tip of fingers to wrist you then shud never be skimming above your head and will always be looking forward without the need to look upwards therefore not hurting neck and if any does drop it will do so harmlessly in front of you does yor book not tell you this

is that better for you mate ;D
 
Bash on kirk anything to help you also may want to add touching on what church said about catching the fallen stone I make dash boxes which I put under were I'm working to catch and to work out of normal size 1.5 m x 1 m and they catch the lot
 
pwi said:
Bash on kirk anything to help you also may want to add touching on what church said about catching the fallen stone I make dash boxes which I put under were I'm working to catch and to work out of normal size 1.5 m x 1 m and they catch the lot


thanx mate, the only reason i left out using a dash box is because i stopped using them, i fing that when the stones have hit the wall they get sand and cement on them and when i reused them they stood out from the rest. each to there own though i suppose ;)
 
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