ashlar

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spunkybum

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weve got an ashlar k-rend job coming up soon it's a 15mm cut with no beads , what do we do with the angles if were laying on 30mm wont it just sag on a straight edge? we could nail timber but when the other sides done will the joint be noticeable? it will be machine applied but would you lads rely on a good even spray or put vertical battens, take them out and fill the hollows?....everyones paranoid of scraping back to the blockwork ! ;D
 
spray in two passes ruling both off and before you scratch back use an i section to flatten especially where the ashlar cuts are as for external angles you will be okay round windows using timber rules just make sure you return reveals same day as for adjoing walls if its not done same day you will see it
 
cheers grand ;).........sounds like we'll have to get some stop beads on the wall returns
 
can't help you on that on sb i've only ever used sand n cement on exteriors not clued up on the new type of renders.
 
no wories steve ;)..........just realised theres no beads ......stop beads might have to be negotiated ;D
 
if u use chamfered timber on the arrises u can do each face of building seperately, because they are chamfered they leave a sharp point on external angle , u wont be able to see, just be careful wen scratching back, like grand says use I edge all over, gets it flat
 
thanx merlin any tips on what timber to use or treat it with anything to stop it sticking too much?
also do you lads use special i section edges or just I section metal stud?
 
the timber u use should be the same thickness as the renders gonna be, get the timber yard to cut a 45 degree angle from the edge, we use plained timber it makes neater job, also u can grease it up wif cooking oil to stop it stickin,good luck m8
 
cheers merlin youre a star mate ;).........i doubt it's the end of this one yet ;D
 
never tried that on external angles merlin might have a go got about 6000m2 coming up soon
 
here we go again sorry chaps........when youre making the cut is it worth getting some timber set at the depth of the cut and come of it and would you nail it and plug the holes after or get labourers either side and hold it or would it bounce around??
 
when making cuts use a gauge rod hold this up and mark where cuts are then ping a chalk line white chalk is best for light colours then hold up a box rule or straight edge and using an ashlar cutter best one is refina's because you can put a rebate on underneath a bit of doorstop will do to give u depth of cut and keep cut square
 
im doing an ashlar job now and we are using the chamfered timbers and so long as the are cut reasonably neatly then they are the best things to use , get some mould release oil and oil the chmfer up first as it comes away from the render easier without damaging the corner, we use an ashlar saw from webers and just run it along a level and that gives a nice cut , just take your toime doing the cuts and you will be fine
 
We use cutters from sas , can adjust for depths , seen some in galway last year a cutter running inside 2 metal rules looked the bollox, cant find any for sale anywhere!
 
Stick wood up but make sure it's bevelled or it will pull the render off when removed. Scratch coat between battens then rule off and float as usual. Following day, (2 is better) remove battens and fill in with small tool then screw a piece of the batten down the centre of your float and float off the making good. The job'll be as good as your battening and the punters will exclaim you a genius.
 
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