Beading exterior bay window

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NitrousKillski

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First post so be gentle !
I'm going to render my bay window (1st scratch coat with waterproofer then top coat) and have stripped the old render to the brickwork.
Just wondering about beading it out. Was going to use galvanised render stop beads as you would on interior plaster where the angle isnt 90 degrees and just wondered whether this was the best way to keep the angles sharp.
Also, would plastic stop beads be better option as I've heard over time even the galvanised ones can deteriorate and leave rust marks.
Cheers in advance for any advice
 
Just use plastic......and welcome to the forum marra................:RpS_thumbup:
 
I think he means to use stop beads on the upright angles, that's how I read it anyway.

S&C doesn't stick well to plastics and doesn't get forced through the mesh like with a metal bead.
 
Cheers for all the replies fellas. See I've started a bit of a discussion - plastic v stainless :)
The beads are for the uprights (5 of them) to keep it looking crisp and sharp on the corners.
Thanks again for all the advice. Great forum by the way.
 
flynnyman said:
They dont damage as easy, they can be stored outside in all conditions, come in different colours and thicknesses, can be removed and re-used a lot easier without damaging and they bend if needed then bend back.
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They get damaged if you whack them just like a stainless, stainless can be stored outside (not sure what this has to do with it though), He's using S&C so will be painting no doubt, dunno why you want to remove them? And you can set a stainless to any thickness you like.
 
DannyMac said:
They get damaged if you whack them just like a stainless, stainless can be stored outside (not sure what this has to do with it though), He's using S&C so will be painting no doubt, dunno why you want to remove them? And you can set a stainless to any thickness you like.
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Read again they dont damage as easy, just getting a s/s bead out of the van can damage it or even just standing on them which happens all the time.
 
Still not enough of a reason to get me to use a plastic bead above a stainless one with s&c. The render just doesn't grip onto them once on the wall.

For the new coloured renders it's plastic everytime, and sometimes looks ok on pebbledash.

Do you use plastic beads on your s&c?
 
DannyMac said:
Still not enough of a reason to get me to use a plastic bead above a stainless one with s&c. The render just doesn't grip onto them once on the wall.

For the new coloured renders it's plastic everytime, and sometimes looks ok on pebbledash.

Do you use plastic beads on your s&c?
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Yes, i would not go back the metal ones coz of all the reasons ive mentioned.
 
How when all his reasons for using them are weak?

Answer me this. How are they stronger when the render can't grip onto them?

For example, take a sheet of plastic, drill a load of holes in it and tack it to a wall.
Then tack a sheet of riblathe next to it. Coat them both with half inch of render.

Go back to them a few days later and try to knock the render off with a hammer.

Which one do you think will be infinitely tougher to knock off, now ask yourself why.

Now apply what I've just taught you to what we are talking about here and you'll be near the money.

I don't need to read up about why plastic are supposed to be stronger when common sense, logic and years of experience tell me otherwise.

Can't remember what some of the other points were, one of them was they don't break as easy when you stand on them lol. I say don't be so damn clumsy, look after your materials.
 
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Didn't even notice, I thought Dannymac was there long ago? Hey bb your really keepin an eye on the thou post thing ain't you?:RpS_sneaky::RpS_lol::RpS_drool:
 
DannyMac said:
How when all his reasons for using them are weak?

Answer me this. How are they stronger when the render can't grip onto them?

For example, take a sheet of plastic, drill a load of holes in it and tack it to a wall.
Then tack a sheet of riblathe next to it. Coat them both with half inch of render.

Go back to them a few days later and try to knock the render off with a hammer.

Which one do you think will be infinitely tougher to knock off, now ask yourself why.

Now apply what I've just taught you to what we are talking about here and you'll be near the money.

I don't need to read up about why plastic are supposed to be stronger when common sense, logic and years of experience tell me otherwise.

Can't remember what some of the other points were, one of them was they don't break as easy when you stand on them lol. I say don't be so damn clumsy, look after your materials.
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I dont usually have to go back to my work with a hammer or neither does any one else so they work for me ... so oin your face macca i win :P
 
flynnyman said:
I dont usually have to go back to my work with a hammer or neither does any one else so they work for me ... so oin your face macca i win :P
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I wont reply to that as it was such a weak reply.

What i will say is that you are probably G** or at very least admire G** people and the way they behave. :RpS_wub:

Peace love and swinging!
 
DannyMac said:
I wont reply to that as it was such a weak reply.

What i will say is that you are probably G** or at very least admire G** people and the way they behave. :RpS_wub:

Peace love and swinging!
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If that is a chat up line thats very weak xxxxxxxxx
 
Congrats DannyMac on the 1000 post.
Probably not a good time to ask about waterproofer in the scratch coat or top
Coat .....or both :) I wish I could do the proper smilies !
 
NitrousKillski said:
Congrats DannyMac on the 1000 post.
Probably not a good time to ask about waterproofer in the scratch coat or top
Coat .....or both :) I wish I could do the proper smilies !
Click to expand...

In the scratch...........can u see the smile icon on the top of your quick reply box?? if you click on it you have an array of emotion icons to choose from........and congrats DMac on the big thoosand
 
LOL this is another thing me and the Flynn dont agree on.

I say put a small amount of waterproofer in the scratch to control suction, BUT on something this small I might not put any in at all....just damp the scratch a little if it's as dry as a camels toe. Then I put more in the top coat to stop the water getting in, along with paint it should make it pretty watertight.

Flynn is of the thinking that you should put it all in the scratch and none in the top coat. Allowing water to freely enter the top and (supposedly) leave it at will.

His thinking is more in keeping with lime render which isnt painted and allows passage of moisture unlike a cement render.

My thinking is that a cement render doesnt allow free passage of moisture so the best bet isn't to allow any in in the first instance.

Bearing all that in mind.....just put a little in both coats, paint it, then skip to the pub and tell the old men with beard what a lovely day you've enjoyed.:RpS_thumbup:
 
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