Beam encasement

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patcher

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Got a sniff of a job that involves boxing in RSJ beam. Know how to do it with wood soldiers but thinking that gypliner might be a better solution. I know that there is a special clip that you can use at the bottom to attach the channel but can it be used at the top as well - BG diagram shows gypliner angle at the top. The problem I see is fixing the gypliner angle to the RSJ - BG don't really give to much advice on how to do this. One way I know is hilti-gun (can you still hire these?) or use those new style self taping screws??? Anyone got any experience on this side of things? Is gypliner any better than wooden soliders?

Cheers.
 
Timber soldiers wedged into the sides. dot and dab board to underneath hold in place with a length of timber and your props while dri-wall goes off
 
or when you bang teh soilders in leave 20mm over hang and then you can screw teh board up to them....

Danny
 
put some gripfill on underside board aswell as what danny said you cannot use dri wall adhesive on rsj,s
 
no no no no no, measuse the width of one side, then the bottom then the other side. then cut them out of a plasterboard all next to each other but just snap the cut don't cut the paper, fold it round, put some gripfill on the bottom of the rsj and you can also screw into the lip of the soldiers that hangs over.
 
This is realy pissing me of, look at patchers website he can do it all but cant wrap a bit of board round a beam, to many mugs on this site lately.
Lucius
 
i dont think its that lucius, i know ways of doing certain things but there are always different roads to go down, if theres a quicker way of doing it surely he has the right to ask that question?
 
OK i apoligise ime having a bad day, week hopefully not a year but at the end of the day i stand by what i say, p atcher has a great website of what he can do so why ask stupid q uestions on here, i dunno might just go and kill myself
Lucius
 
he can by the sounds of it, but hes heard of another method and wanted to know the pro's and con's of it. thats like someone asking 20years ago what you thought of a mixer instead of a podger. theres nothing wrong with it and i thought thats what this site is for.
 
steve_cov_spread said:
he can by the sounds of it, but hes heard of another method and wanted to know the pro's and con's of it. thats like someone asking 20years ago what you thought of a mixer instead of a podger. theres nothing wrong with it and i thought thats what this site is for.
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Thanks Steve. ;)

Lucius - hope you have a better day tomorrow - cheers for taking the time to look at my website. :)
 
Sorry steve ive had a think about this and this guy aint got a clue about running gypliner round a beam and it worries me what else he knows what he says on his website he can do if you are advertising yourself as he does you shoulldnt be asking questions like that on here , yeah f**k it ime finished here to many mugs
 
Not that I really have to defend myself but, my services are based around a network of contacts who are builders, metallers, tackers, dabbers, skimmers, tapers, painters to name but a few - all proficient and experienced tradesmen in their own right.

I only estimate on work that I am confident of performing to a high professional standard.

I am sorry that asking members advice/experiences of what is essentially a question about either metalling or timber framing a beam in a one-off domestic situation has invoked such a personal and professional attack. There are many posts on this site which I personally consider are more fundamental than than this topic, but I accept that its an open forum and have a personal choice of whether to post a reply or not.

I am not going to pour any more petrol on the fire by posting more replies to personal and professional attacks. Each to their own.
 
this site is here for people to help each other and anyone new to the game might benefit from the answers to patchers post. at the end of the day if you know everything then you dont need to talk to other plasterers. if you dont like a question then dont reply to it.

dont worry patcher a few on here have give me some stick over the last month and this is how you should deal with it.....

f u c k you loucius you f u c k ing mug, off you f u c k ing pop! the rest of us can stick around and help each other with one less bell end takin the p i s s ;D
 
Everybody has there own methods and there is always another way to skin a cat

I had a plasterer working for me before I left and he was the dogs danglies but was s**t at getting work.... thats where I came in!

He never used a corner trowel till I showed him, it didnt make hime a bad spread just never got shown.

This forum is about helping plasterers old or new, competition is always good for business it protects teh general public and the good spreads stick around while the others go on to other trades.

Relax guys!

Danny
 
nicks right you are better cutting three seperate bits better edge but who cares cause i dont ever do plasterboarding
 
i think the reason i wrap it round is a few times in the past, the chippys smacked the soldiers in too far and no had anything to fix underneath to, so with the paper and grillfill underneath it should stay up
 
dub out the middle with hardwall gypbond the underneath stick a skim bead on and skim it f**k em looks lovely from here ;)
 
spunky said:
dub out the middle with hardwall gypbond the underneath stick a skim bead on and skim it (french word) em looks lovely from here ;)

could be worse, we did a barn in 2006 for some architect couple, and they left every single rsj showing. looked F*****g' horrible.
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steve_cov_spread said:
no no no no no, measuse the width of one side, then the bottom then the other side. then cut them out of a plasterboard all next to each other but just snap the cut don't cut the paper, fold it round, put some gripfill on the bottom of the rsj and you can also screw into the lip of the soldiers that hangs over.
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Can't go wrong with this method but I don't like the empty external angles it creates when putting the skim beads up - the angle ain't solid i.e. its concave not convex. Especially where I need to dab the beads on and there's no soliders to screw into. Someone knows a trick for this as well surely.....
 
steve_cov_spread said:
just fill it with adhesive when you stick the beads on. JD.
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I'm normally following behind other blokes that aint there and there aint no adhesive knocking about (board adhesive you mean right?)
 
Fix soldiers every 400, fix a board on both side (cheeks) with 2" over hang then screw a batton to the inside of the board then fix the board to the underneath with screws to the battons, job done. Lucius give your head a shake its a forum for advise and if you would of took some advise ie CSCS you wouldnt be in such a bad mood.
 
flynnyman said:
Fix soldiers every 400, fix a board on both side (cheeks) with 2" over hang then screw a batton to the inside of the board then fix the board to the underneath with screws to the battons, job done. Lucius give your head a shake its a forum for advise and if you would of took some advise ie CSCS you wouldnt be in such a bad mood.
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Was just about to say the same, I overhang board too then screw lath on overhang & screw bottom board to this.
Have also done it with 2x2 width ways across the beam screwed into each side of board, then screw board to this,
this way uses less timber but takes a bit longer.
 
i like that idea with overhanging the cheeks and fixing a lath. might do it that way from now on.
 
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