Box screeds

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essexandy

essexandy

The Lake Governor
In another subject someone said "do the job properly and use screeds".
I always use screeds when floating, just what I was taught to do, what do the rest of you do.
 
always box screed, you cant go wrong if you level the screeds then run your skirting line and ceiling line. all the new boys seem to do is lay on and run the edge across.
 
I tend to go with whatever the background suctions like , if its lightweights blocks then screeds it is , and i must admit its been years since ive seen concreate blocks internally ,float up till One o clock turn back and float up they were happy days 8)
 
church said:
I tend to go with whatever the background suctions like , if its lightweights blocks then screeds it is , and i must admit its been years since ive seen concreate blocks internally ,float up till One o clock turn back and float up they were happy days 8)
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Yeah used to work on Leca blocks like that some years ago, so little suction that some times you had to re-rule the wall before floating up as it would sag if a little over thick :(
 
gods honest truth ........ i have been in the game for a while and over the years have worked for a few big firms and have been on my own for 4-5 years and i have NEVER come across anyone who uses screeds .... no one!
we must be rough as down here..... not tidy like !
 
tidy like .....sometimes i put top and bottom screeds in and rule of these and go inside the beads and ub them out when im skimming.......you can get away with it when theres no grid ceilings or tiles and you can get on nice and tight .......all they check is ceiling and skirting lines unless its tiled you might get rockers
 
1 big screed about 600mm top to bottom across the middle of the wall. Rule that vertical and horizontal then run the top half of the wall in then the bottom. As long as the ceiling and skirting lines are straight and the beads up right you can get away with murder in the middle of the wall.
 
i like the lads that do the vertical screeds at the straight edge length....you might aswell block rule the f**k*r
 
to be honest i dont even know how to lay a screed properly .... what is the best EXACT way to do it. whenever i do it for a tiled wall it seems to take me ages!
 
If you dab your beads the day before you can rule off them. ( Us them as a guide to run the straght edge along.) As long as you made sure they are upright and square.
This also works well off doorframes.
 
block rule it or if youre using screeds make sure you rule of window door frames by at least a foot and sort youre ceiling scirting lines out after .....i dont always use screeds mate but try to when theres grid ceilings involved .....sometimes its quicker cause it feels a bit more organised and you can put some screeds up and leave youre lab laying on
 
you work left to right so put one down the left hand side of the wall and use these to rule off ....one across the top and bottom and rule of these avoid any beads in the way or rule of them if there not too heavy ....if youve got a door in the corner its worth ruling of the frame and bending youre screed slightly otherwise the top screed looks a bit obvious and if youve got a window smack bang in the middle of the wall put two down each side rule of each bead follow them up join the top and join the bottom..............sounds hard work but if you get into it you can get away laying it too heavy if you rule inside the beads and ignore verything ive just said about ruling of beads ;D............then you join top bottom and dub the rest out with scim
 
so how do you set them ??? using a level then float them off and wait for them to pull before you lay that wall up?

am i being a bit thick here
 
rich this how i was taught in the bad old days when we used a lot of carlite browning which set up nice and quick so screeds worked well. aapply material about a foot wide all the way across wall about 3-6 inches below ceiling line and rule horizontally repeat at bottom of wall and devil float fill in between and rule vertically off the screeds fill in and float when ready. as i said this was with browning so you could screed a couple of rooms and fill up straight away skim in afters
 
chuck the level out of the window thats for dabbers to worry about .....if you do a couple and a half of a straight edges length it'll firm up a bit but you can still work wet edges so you have to be a bit carefull .....stay 6-12 inches away from the edge too this is youre nice straight screed
 
When I run a 600 band horizontaly across a wall I rule it verticaly first with a 6' edge and can gauge the gap between the edge and the wall both above the screed and below if the blockworks upright and the gaps the same its upright to, also I can keep an eye on the thickness I am putting on.
Or you could do as above and then bang the level on it if you a tad unsure, just to check it.
Just my way thats all.
 
richardbrown said:
so how do you know your screeds are upright ??? isnt that the whole point of it
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you don't know, you just go with the flow, we are not paid enough to get it dead plumb. Just need to get it flat 360, somewhere near the mark......Gonna be some t**t saying now, my walls are always dead plumb, bla, bla,bla,, Yeh mate keep taking the pills. ;D
 
I only bother in kitchens or any tiled areas, cut some plasterboard an inch deep by about 4 inches wide stick one at skirting level with bonding or d&b addy, one the other end of the wall and then stick whatever intermediates are needed boned in with straight edge or a line, i use a laser only cos i have one then plumb these up and rule your screeds to these.
Lucius.
 
richardbrown said:
but what is the correct method of laying the screeds. if you are gonna sand cement and skim.
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This is the way I use screeds Richard, when rendering I work right to left (I'm right handed).
Firstly I put a level on the wall near the internal to see if I need to the screed on thicker at the top or bottom to get it plumb, then I put a vertical screed about 300mm wide down the internal and rule it off, then I check it with the level and make any adjustments needed. Now I'm not saying that I make sure that they're all bang on plumb but if not they're always close.
I then do the same at the other end of the wall. The thickness of the screeds may vary taking into account of anything that needs getting over ( a poorly fixed lecy box or an obvious bow in the wall). If the blockwork is good and there aren't any other problems then I aim to have the screeds about 11mm thick. I don't leave the screeds to pull in or float them over, I just put on across the top of the wall from right to left coming down the wall about 400mm and then rule of from one screed to the other. Once I'm happy that I've got it straight I drop down the wall another 400mm and repeat the process until the wall is finished. This all sounds very long winded but is a very efficient way of rendering, your always ruling off fresh muck which can go straight back on the board and be reused. And I've worked alongside and employed enough spreads to know that I'm not slow. Anyway that's enough bla bla bla ;)
 
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