Can you hardwall over plasterboard?

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Cowboy_Bodger

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Im in a situation where by hardwalling over a bit of plasterboard could save me alot of bollock ache -

but can it be done without suffering any adverse consequences?
 
i do it all the time, but im used to it...
if your not used to how its gonna affect your top coat you might swear at it a bit...
i find the easiest way to avoid pain is to let your first coat of finish pull right in before flattenin, or at least the bit over the hardwall/bonding...
then when you top it you shouldnt have too many problems...usually involves a fresh mix for toppin though cos your first mix will be too far gone to use for toppin
 
i emergency dabbed some board with hardwall came in the next day and gave it a little wiggle to see if it had bonded and it came straight off and left the hardwall on the wall !!
 
Yeah i do it some times, you know when you have to, due to lack of materials, but i would not recomend it, did a job many moons ago hardwalled a wall around a door as it was too thick to just to skim on plasterboard and the whole lot litterally fell off and had to redo it with bonding i think the door vibration opening and closing had something to do with it. But its like the M R board you are supposed to thistle bond-it before you skim it, dont happen very often on site usually pva it and skim never had any probs with that, but a mate of mine said he had a whole ceiling fall down and he wont touch it with out the bond-it.
 
i agree hardwall is not for plasterboard, forget taking shortcuts on this one, go for bonding, hardwall will not adhere. if it needs dubbing out double board, will save you timeand heart ache :)
 
So hardwalling over plasterboard is a bit naughty -

Ok right, so I need a solution - imagine my situation if you will - Once apon a time there was a door frame, on the right hand side of this door frame there sat some old bare brickwork, on the left hand side and above the door frame there once stood timber joists which some f**ker had boarded out (badly) -

currently theres a step down from board to brickwork, and an even larger step down from door frame to board - I was thinking id hardwall out the brickwork to bring it level with the plasterboard, scrim the joint between plasterboard and hardwall then float out the entire thing using bonding?

That'll work right?
 
forget the hardwall and use the bonding, if not give a tight coat of bonding then scratch and float out with the hardwall. but i wouldnt put the hardwall on to the boards. ;)
 
ill have to keep an eye on how i use that stuff by the sound of it..no probs as yet though...i been stickin beads on with it and allsorts...i love the stuff...bonding always used to give me nightmares, aint used it for years...
i take it cos hardwall is meant for medium/high suction and bonding isnt thats the difference?? or am i talkin shite? i dont put it on thick though where its not brick, and im straight on it with finish, i sort of use it like a base coat for a 3 coat finish if you get the drift...would that make a difference y'think?
 
had a look on gysum site...your right about the hardwall versus bonding, not recommended for plasterboard ( or it doesnt come into the list anyway) but it does recommend hardwall for engineerings which i would consider to be of probably LESS suction than plasterboard?? anyone throw any light on that?
 
try cleaning bonding off youre tools compared to hardwall it sticks like sh*t to a blanket!! also hasn't the vermiculite got something to do with how it behaves?????
 
didnt know it had vermiculite innit!! thought that was for backfill for real fireplaces!
as for sticks like shite....so does tile adhesive..the penny is starting to drop...
maybe i should carry a bag of bonding around instead and pva high suction backgrounds....anyone ever use bonding on high suction using this method??? im just trying to make life3 easier for myself...
 
i used to use bonding on everything like what nicksey says it sticks like s**t, it can be used on low suction backgrounds but hardwall,toughcoat and browning are similar to each other they cant be used on painted brick or plasterboard, pva wont solve the problem.
 
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