corner beads

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welshspread

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hi all, got a job on this weekend, re-skim a lounge. the bay windows are half hexagons meaning the wall returns are much greater than the norm 90 degrees, can you open out the normal beading? to suit. any tips on doing this would be great. i have also read on here about using a "wickes" staple gun to fit beads- are they any good? must be better than masonary nails.

thanks all

;D ;D ;D
 
if you get the mesh type beads they're quite easy to splay out just by pushing them onto the angle. I fix my beads with gripfill and hold them in place with gaffer tape, make it your first job, by the time you've put your pva on the walls it'll be ready to skim.
 
i use stop bead on 45 degree angles, i find normal 90's wont squash up enough so the corner needs baseing out, if you dont you get the 'scooped' effect...
i usually stick my beads on with whatevers left in the bucket from the first coat of the first set, i.e. ill generally skim the ceiling first, then the two big plain walls, leaving the beaded up stuff till last..
if ive got to base out to the beads (say the window reveals are a mile out of straight) ill throw some in there with the last mix of the previous set, saves hanging around waiting to flatten it if its on dead thick
 
pug mate why are using gaffer tape to fix beads?? can't you use scrim if in doubt?
 
Normally use mesh beads and open them out. If you get a bit of scaffolding or something similar and push the bead onto this to open it out, you'll find the raised lip stays central, i've tried opening out the beads without doing this and the lip tends to go to one side or the other. The bead ends up a right mess and its a crap finish.
 
nicksey, sorry didn't explain meself, gaffer tape just to hold beads till gripfill takes hold, remove tape before skimming. ::)
 
don't have to apologise to me mate, forget the gripfill honest mate just use good old multi etc, run a joint of it up the bead and cut it back with your thumb back to the bead if you want, sorry mate not trying to teach you how to suck eggs but even if you get a little movement the next coat should sort it
or just carry on doing what youre doing because i do like the sound of my own voice sometimes :-X
 
reason i come on this site is to pick up tips, happy to keep learnin. for example, bigsegs said to mix red wine with coke, long weekend so i'm on my second bottle now! what a star ;D
 
Ha Ha Ha gaffer tape I was working on a site in swindow and there was this rasta dude putting bellcast beads up with gaffer tape he got chucked off site after a couple of days ;D
 
hi, 30 years at it! instead of bending out bead, try skimming 1 panel to completion then the next and as u trowel up place ya trowel flat on previous panel and cut away from the angle. tricky if your a begginer but perfect it and it'l make a nice job. as a matter of interest, how many of you guys know how to form a pennyround out of sand and cement?
 
i've done afew corners by hand, and happy with the results, but f**k me, it took some time! tell me about pennyround, never heard the term, welcome to the madhouse!
 
Ha Ha Ha gaffer tape I was working on a site in swindow and there was this rasta dude putting bellcast beads up with gaffer tape he got chucked off site after a couple of days ;D

If i ever get 'cutouts' on a rendered building to patch back in and they use concrete lintels i try and fit the bellcast to the lintel BEFORE it goes in...
few 6mm holes, red plugs and bang in a 40mm clout...soon as the things up in the air you can get straight on it with the muck (concrete dont suck too good does it) then at least im not fannying about till 6 waiting to float up, cut out, doors in, reveals done and rendered....easy done for 4..
 
hi, 30 years at it! instead of bending out bead, try skimming 1 panel to completion then the next and as u trowel up place ya trowel flat on previous panel and cut away from the angle. tricky if your a begginer but perfect it and it'l make a nice job. as a matter of interest, how many of you guys know how to form a pennyround out of sand and cement?

When i first started my old man wouldnt use beads on external render as he told me they rusted and everything had to be done with feather edged timber rules it was a nightmare as time went on we started using beads mostly stainless. But with the penny round do you mean like the timber dowel beads? or doing it free hand? As i done a bungalow a few years ago in the countryside and they only wanted rounded corners and done it all free hand it was easier than i thought it would be was having nightmares about the job and all went fine. done it all in hardwall on thermalights just took the corners off a bit on the blocks and followed it round.
 
theres external corner trowels, brick pointers etc...but if you let the render go off till it gets to floating stage you can rub em up to whatever radius you want...only trouble with not using beads in my experience is that if the corner gets a whack (which corners are prone to) then theyre easily damaged wheras a bead not only gives u a straight edge to work to, it also strengthens the corner
 
I a;ways scrim down the edges of beads and on occasions I've actually used it to attache the beads.
Other than that I've used screws nails staples gear no nails gripfill and occasionally spit and hope!
 
another little attachment method to add to the 'get you out of the s**t' repetoire..
in absence of rawlplugs to a cement based reveal...drill a 3mm hole 20mm deep then bang in a 25mm clout...what happens is the nail sort of mushrooms out at the point giving just enough grip...this has an advantage of pullin the bead in tight if you aint too arsed about gettin it straight...all you dodgy builders out there.. :D
 
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