Dabbing foil backed board.

Dropsalot

Private Member
Help.
Gotta wall to skim that will have to be dabbed. Builder has specified 25mm celotex backed board, however, there is an area of the wall that is too proud to put on the celotex board, I've got to use foil backed 12.5mm for that bit.

Question is ........will it stick? What adhesive is best for the job, mixed powder or spray?
Best screws/washers to use for fire prevention bit. Don't want to make a cockup.

Cheers all /any.
 

Vincey

Private Member
Help.
Gotta wall to skim that will have to be dabbed. Builder has specified 25mm celotex backed board, however, there is an area of the wall that is too proud to put on the celotex board, I've got to use foil backed 12.5mm for that bit.

Question is ........will it stick? What adhesive is best for the job, mixed powder or spray?
Best screws/washers to use for fire prevention bit. Don't want to make a cockup.

Cheers all /any.
I'd just dab a standard board on instead tbh the foil back are crap anyway
 

flynnyman

Well-Known Member
I'd just dab a standard board on instead tbh the foil back are crap anyway
You would probably be getting called back for colds spots showing through and foil backs are not crap they are just as important as any board used correctly.
 

Vincey

Private Member
You would probably be getting called back for colds spots showing through and foil backs are not crap they are just as important as any board used correctly.
True fair enough comment mate I just presumed it was a small little bit, compared to his insulated boards just seems waste of time fannying around.
 

jamesthefirst

Private Member
I thought you had been in the game a bit Dropsalot for a basic question like this?!
I have used metal furrings dabbed then screw your boards. Also used the Arti method too.
 

Marshy

Private Member
Dry zone do a waterproof adhesive in tubes but you will need their gun to use it and that sticks foil back boards and anything else. Not cheap but works and no damp spots from traditional dabbing with drywall. Get in touch with safeguards website for your local rep (y)
 

Dropsalot

Private Member
I thought you had been in the game a bit Dropsalot for a basic question like this?!
I have used metal furrings dabbed then screw your boards. Also used the Arti method too.
You are correct...@jamesthefirst.....I've been about far longer than I ever thought I'd be....

The wall in question is about 8m long, cavity blockwork with a section of brickwork that protrudes into the room about 40 odd mm. The builder has not put insulation in the cavity, and now is worried about u values.
I could batten out the whole thing and board over.....simple. The builder doesn't want to lose any of the room.
Soooo, I was asking the forum for a solution. The quick fix suggestion was,.........thermal boards fixed to block work either side of the brickwork, foil backed fixed to the brickwork. Probably a shite idea, so I thought I'd run it by everybody. Thermal boards will be plugged and screwed.
The further issue we have is that there is a window board on the offending wall that would loss too much projection if too thick a batten were used. The client is particular in this regard.
 

jamesthefirst

Private Member
Is this job in Ireland? As maybe bauwer floated with their finish might have worked? Or maybe ecocork from Mike wye?
I would personally have changed the window board size and work to this but I don't know your tolerances.
 

Marshy

Private Member
You are correct...@jamesthefirst.....I've been about far longer than I ever thought I'd be....

The wall in question is about 8m long, cavity blockwork with a section of brickwork that protrudes into the room about 40 odd mm. The builder has not put insulation in the cavity, and now is worried about u values.
I could batten out the whole thing and board over.....simple. The builder doesn't want to lose any of the room.
Soooo, I was asking the forum for a solution. The quick fix suggestion was,.........thermal boards fixed to block work either side of the brickwork, foil backed fixed to the brickwork. Probably a shite idea, so I thought I'd run it by everybody. Thermal boards will be plugged and screwed.
The further issue we have is that there is a window board on the offending wall that would loss too much projection if too thick a batten were used. The client is particular in this regard.
I've posted what you need to do pal
 

Dropsalot

Private Member
Cheers lads..site meeting today....client and architect will work it out and let us minions know their decision.......so that's that. Many thanks everyone.
 
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