Damaged Plaster Board

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suzie

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I would really appreciate some advice...my plastering isnt bad after a fair few disasters. Ive been asked to skim a friends kitchen. Ive removed tiles from the wall to find they were stuck onto bare plaster board. Some of the board has been damaged quite badly, and obvious paper damage. If anybody could give me any tips that would be great. I am still learning. I dont really want to have to reboard the wall. What is the best way round it please. If I skimed over a board with a lot of paper damage Im thinking it will make the plaster bubble is this correct.

Hope all that makes some kind of sense.
 
yes it makes sense....common problem...the problem you describe is not for an amateur...sorry..no disrespect...
best thing to do would be rip the old plasterboard off be it dot and dab or screwfix, then reboard but sein as this is a plasterin forum, take yer pick...id prolly bond it then skim, depends, i aint seen it....see wot the lads say, up to u though...depends on your confidence... 8-)
 
Why cant you reboard? are there electrics and pipes on the wall? you can get over it but like seggs says its more of a case of having a bit more experiance, if reboardings not an option try getting all the loose paper off and bond and skim like seggs said again.
 
Thanks for your reply its much appreciated :). I could reboard it theres a few reasons I dont want to, besides being lazy, the main reason there are lots of plug sockets, a cooker socket and fuse switch. Cooker hood and pipes leading upto a boiler...not a nice wall at all. I was thinking about bonding, but as Ive never bonded onto plaster board, thought it would be good to get some advice. I think Im going to have a go at bonding it, then skimming. If all else fails I can always get a plasterer in. No offence taken about being an amature...I do know Ive still got a lot to learn.

Theres still time to change my mind and break off all communication with my friend and leave the country.
 
A good tip on bonding is to just trowel it up like skim when its starting to go off flick a bit of water onto it if you have to but get it as smooth as you can then just skim it, it will go on alot nicer. For some reason bonding dont like to be devil floated.
 
thats exactly it....a plastere would just throw some bonding at it, trowel that up like a first coat, thenj give it two coats of skim...
easy way round the sockets etc is take em offf, same with anything else...get rid of it...it makes for a much better finish...if we all had to plaster around 2nd fix we'd prolly all just bin the job, waste of effort, poor organisation...you would not ever fit a kitchen and then plaster it, only people with huge ego's and zero brain cells do that...
in the event of an overskim what you do if youre intelligent is remove everyhting thats gonna get in your way and let the customer sort it out...youre a plasterer..not an electrician/kitchen fitter/joiner...thats the way things are done...end of. - thats a full stop btw..
 
o..btw..sometimes it does pay us established plasterers to do this for em, but charge em...theyll have to pay someone anyway, or do it themselves...but ffs if u dont know what ure doing leave it alone....its not hard but only if you know how!
 
A good tip on bonding is to just trowel it up like skim when its starting to go off flick a bit of water onto it if you have to but get it as smooth as you can then just skim it, it will go on alot nicer. For some reason bonding dont like to be devil floated.
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Bod what do you mean bonding doesnt like the devil float? A tip wet it then rub up ;) If you dont get the chance to skim it same day and you dont key it the skim might fail. Always key your floating.
 
Without seeing the extent of the damage to the plasterboard it's a difficult call but if it is more or less just paper damage then I would just get yourself down wickes and buy a tub of Wickes Bonding Agent (pink polymer based sealer) and apply it to the area you want to skim.

Leave for 24 hours and then it'll be ready to skim. I've used this stuff on a lot of dodgy backgrounds prior to skimming and it's never let me down yet. Costs about £11 quid a tub and will be money well spent if you don't have to re-board.

The stuff dries like sandpaper and gives you a bit more working time than using regular PVA :)
 
Have to agree with lee. If it's just paper damage WBA and skim. If it's more extensive tight coat of bonding and skim and it its completely knackered rip it down and reboard and skim and if it's worse than that ........move house.
 
A good tip on bonding is to just trowel it up like skim when its starting to go off flick a bit of water onto it if you have to but get it as smooth as you can then just skim it, it will go on alot nicer. For some reason bonding dont like to be devil floated.
Click to expand...


Bod what do you mean bonding doesnt like the devil float? A tip wet it then rub up ;) If you dont get the chance to skim it same day and you dont key it the skim might fail. Always key your floating.
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it drags through the vermiculite mate and you will get alot of air because the float lines are deep, i wouldn't float small patches it's not worth the hassle
 
If the tiles have taken most of the board with them cut it out and patch with new board. Bond it out and pva when set. Double coat with multi and its spot on.

If your retiling or there's splasbacks going on just level off with bonding, no point of putting a finish on it if you're never going to see it!
 
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