DAMP JOB HELP PLZ!

[oasis]

HI THERE IV BEEN DOIN THIS DAMP JOB 4 2 WEEKS NOW.

there was some bubling plaster at the bottom of the wall neer the skirtings

iv hacked off wall 1 meter high

2 coats of theroseal

waterproof sand and cement (loads of waterproofer)

and a think layer of bonding

then skim...

took at least 10 days till bottom half of wall was dry i skimed top 2 bottom

iv painted the walls as soon as the skim looked dry..

i was just glossing the skirtings to day and sore all the way on one wall the paint has bubbled again and walls off with a light scrape?

plz dnt say this is damp comming back...

could it just meen the wall is still not dry at the bottom

when the rads went back on the plumber said it was quite soft still

plz help i dnt wanna re do the job or i will lose all the money left in the job

 

[bigsegs]

have you renderered it to the floor mate? or did you leave a gap?
did your waterproofer have salt repellant in it or was it just waterproofer/plasticiser/retarder from the builders merchant?

 

[oasis]

iv garn 2 the floor with throseal and sand and cement and bonding..and i fink it was just waterproof from travis perkings £10 a 5 liter bottol...

thanks 4 the reply..

the damp was ment 2 be from last years floods

 

[bigsegs]

1st off, never render to the floor on a damp job.. unless its tanked onto the floor... leave a 2" gap for bridging (or not bridging)
secondly, any water in a wall when it dries will try to bring with it hygroscopic salts (basically means water borne salt) which is why waterproofer from a damp/chemical company has a salt repellant in it...
thirdly never use bonding on a damp job, its as porous as f'ck and will suck water in fro wherever it can find it..
it could just be salt bubbling your paint mate, probably is, my solutuion would be quick get rid of the paint over the damp area (scrape it, sand it, anyway you can it), and get some salt neutraliser from the merchants (smells like battery acid, clear, 5 litre tubs), paint that over evey thing youve hacked off... let it dry... then let it dry some more....
whatever you do, dont use silk paint, it wont let the wall breath or dry, use a breathable matt, explain it to customer...
get paid...

 

[oasis]

thanks i had 2 give a garentee on the job (my own fault i gave one mill learn from this)

iv finished the job iv used matt paint from B&Q normal stuff

will that salt neutraliser make the paint job look funny ie will i have 2 paint again afterwards?

im so outa pocket on this job as it took 10 days 2 dry...

i only used bonding as im unsure with sand and cement on how 2 do a finish

 

[oasis]

i got some pics i could add i cant remeber the web site i need 2 use 2 upload picks,

 

[bigsegs]

youll need to get the paint OFF again mate.. the salt is appearing behind the paint and blowing it... then apply salt neutraliser, then re mist coat, and 2 coat as normal... sorry mate, but if its what i think it is then thats gonna be the only way youre gonna cure it...
floating render is easy mate if you 2 coat it, waterproofer in first (scratch) coat, i use it in float coat too if its a big area, either way, rule off like normal, get it as flat as possible, then if you rub it with a float and it doesnt move the entire coat round the wall, keep rubbing keeping the float flat and youll put a lovely finish on it, when youve done the wall, wind 3 drywall screws through the end of the float so they stick out about 2mm and draw yerself a loverly little spirograph (this acts as a) a key and b) any bits of render you pick up off the wall when youre skimmin it will disappear back into the 'devil float' lines
thinkin on... if youve used bonding for the entire wall, im not really sure how its gonna behave, long as the s+c scratch is proper waterproofed you should be almost ok... cant really say cos i aint ever used bonding on a damp job on pain of death from my old damp proof gaffer... and she was a WOMAN!!!!
nuff said...

 

[oasis]

ill add some pics if u can tell me a site i can upload 2

 

[oasis]

HERE ARE THE PICS START 2 FINISH (NOT SHOWING THE RENDER OR BONDING COAT.)

and this is the aint going funny afterwards

 

[bigsegs]

you know what mate, it might just be that you didnt allow enough time for the wall to dry properly, even if the skim has dried, the render underneath and the bonding on top may not have cured properly... painting it will just seal the water in....
damp chemical suppliers recommend not painting for a few months to allow it to dry... it can take a damp property a year to dry out properly.. trust me...
its a right can of worms is damp mate... even the company i worked for had problems and thats with loads of experience, correct methods, correct chemicals and surveys done by the book... public liability is something to kepp up to date if you do this sort of thing on a regular basis....
any sign of a white fluffy substance and its salt... if not it could just be excess water left in the wall...
when you paint anything new you MUST use a mist coat, let it dry properly then paint over as normal... in the case of damp properties its always best to tell the customer to leave it alone for as long as possible and paint it themselves... 3 months isnt a silly suggestion at all...

the only other query ive got is 1) the wall should have been hacked off last year, straight after the floods and left to dry for as long as possible and 2) we never used 'theroseal' in those situations, the only thing similar was 'tanking' and that was only used where dpc bridging was inevitable e.g. when the floor levels differered in a house e.g. step down into an annex that was once an outhouse but now used as living space so the 'tanked' wall was below main house dpc...
everything else was just hacked off, rerendered with the correct chemicals and replastered.. we never painted anything ever..
another possible use of tanking was where the floor (concrete) didnt have a dpm (damp proof membrane) and to treat the edge where it met the wall a sbr/cement paste was used as a bottle cove/fillet and the floor itself was treated with a chemical called 'trimol' (trade name) basically a hard setting seal for the concrete...
sorry cant be of much more help mate, thats about the limit of my experience

 

[nicksey1401]

arent you supposed to paint the stuff a foot away from the wall on the floor aswell?

 

[bigsegs]

just remembered something... waterproofer doesnt become fully effective till the render has CURED and it takes about 2 weeks to cure fully...
worth remembering before it gets painted...

 

[oasis]

thanks for the help...so u wouldt use theroseal u would just use sand and cement?

the room iv done is a step down from the rest of the house 2...

the walls should of been hacked off ur rite...

iv scraped away the paint that was bubling .. only a few inches from skirting on 2 walls..and iv miss coated nd will paint again and hope it is dryer this time round

 

[bigsegs]

never used theroseal mate so i dont know its properties...
tanking is a kind of cementious powder u mix with water, you give it 3 coats letting each dry in between, applied with a big emulsion brush... technically its supposed to be completely waterproof so is used where anything bridges the dpc... damp surveying in these instances is all about levels... thats why on an injection, if the ground/floor levels change you need to overlap the injection by 500mm each way (giving a metre overlap) along the brick courses...
where theres a step down, on one side (the lower one) the floor level (internal) will be lower than the dpc therefore the wall needs to be tanked to avoid the render bridging the dpc and water tracking round (using the render) thereby making the dpc useless...
thats also why a lot of jobs that have been rendered externally previously have damp, cos somebody's bridged the damp course (usually rendering to the ground)... all it takes sometimes is a disc cutter and a good coat of synthaproof externally...
big subject mate, worth doin some more research on if you wanna take it up on a regular basis...
hope the wall dries out for you mate... i'd really wanna leave the paint for as long as you can though... even if you knock a bit off the price for the customer, it might just save you having to do it again...

 

[oasis]

ok..thanks i would take a job on like normaly but 1 iv not long been on me own and 2 it dint look that bad a job as iv done 1 be for..but i found out that that has been drying for 3 months and had heaters running in it 2..and had a dry certifcate..

LIVE AND LEARN HEY

 

[church]

All your tools look nice and clean which looks very proffessional...... except the most important one...... you guess it your trowel , you would be surprized how much weight is added by the build up of old set on the blade and handle also it looks un pro like , take a tip from me keep the trowel clean as including the handle and it makes a hard job that much easier also it wears in faster the cleaner it is.

 

[bigsegs]

ok..thanks i would take a job on like normaly but 1 iv not long been on me own and 2 it dint look that bad a job as iv done 1 be for..but i found out that that has been drying for 3 months and had heaters running in it 2..and had a dry certifcate..

LIVE AND LEARN HEY

keep it up mate, makes a nice change as a lot of lads your age would rather sit on their arses picking their noses to olympic standard for a living