Damp

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Call Sam. He’ll hack it off. Board it with foam. Skim same day. Then do the same again next month and the month after until the customer realises it might be worth fixing the external issue


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beader said:
Rising damp and its treatment is a con . Tell the customer to get a plasterer that knows what they are looking at . Just saying.
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Yes your rhight rising damp a myth money making. To think that ther injection silicon in to stone wall ther injection in to lime. Might work on 9in brick wall no chance on stone wall
 
Find what the root of the problem is first. Tanking and waterproof render/plaster is only going to cover it up and if its a condensation cold spot the problem will still come back. A lot of damp I see in the older solid walls is down to lack of heat, ventilation and insulation.
 
If it a stone wall I'm te
Rigsby said:
Find what the root of the problem is first. Tanking and waterproof render/plaster is only going to cover it up and if its a condensation cold spot the problem will still come back. A lot of damp I see in the older solid walls is down to lack of heat, ventilation and insulation.
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If it a stone wall I'm tempted sometimes to render up in hydrolic lime and lime finish skim. For the wall to breath better. I know your suppose to external to whith lime for the full benefit. Have you just done the inside and the inside being OK after?
 
carys said:
If it a stone wall I'm tempted sometimes to render up in hydraulic lime and lime finish skim. For the wall to breath better. I know your suppose to external to whith lime for the full benefit. Have you just done the inside and the inside being OK after?
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We mostly work on stone properties with varying degrees of damp problems ....agree with the above...
I would look at the outside first because any work done to inside is pointless if the cause still exists although it may help short term especially replacing sand cement with lime based render /plaster



try and find what may be causing the issue be that ...
cement pointing /render that may be cracked
Lack of Roof over hang at gables
Guttering and downpipes..
ground drainage
Outside ground height too high .....
 
Chimney breast wall all stains patches. Stacks been removed. Outside renderd. painted .no cracks no pipes .in good nick. Third floor. Victorian house.
 
No it's been capped off in roof space. They say staining is very gradual doesn't change when it rains. One company wanted 1500 to hack off put on membrane and plaster it's 10 ft by 9ft high.
 
Did you notice if there is a vent for chimney at all... either downstairs or bedroom

Has fireplace been bricked up or is still open
Downstairs

Sorry mate 50 questions ....
 
tapit said:
it's just to protect cables from other trades (plasterers trowels) plastic sheathing can be used if rcd protected.
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Plastic is only suitable for walls that are being dry lined , It is to flimsy and plaster does not stick to it . Metal capping should always be used where a backing coat is being used . Sparks are just lazy f**k**s and and like plastic because it easy'r for them .
 
beader said:
Plastic is only suitable for walls that are being dry lined , It is to flimsy and plaster does not stick to it . Metal capping should always be used where a backing coat is being used . Spreads are just messy f**k**s and like plastic coz it really fcks up their work
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Somewhere in a parallel forum
 
beader said:
Plastic is only suitable for walls that are being dry lined , It is to flimsy and plaster does not stick to it . Metal capping should always be used where a backing coat is being used . Sparks are just lazy f**k**s and and like plastic because it easy'r for them .
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If it's being dry lined it dissent need any protection at all.
Metal or plastic both same for plaster to stick to.
If it is a concern a strip if my tape over top would help.
 
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