Door Linings

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essexandy

essexandy

The Lake Governor
As they have been mentioned in a different thread I thought I'd ask some questions.

Most of the off shelf door linings for block walls seem to be 132-135mm (51/4in. in old money), these are the traditional size going right back to the days of render, float and set and allow between
10-13mm more thickness overall (both sides of the wall) than the recommended 22mm for backing coats (S&C, Hardwall etc.) when used with 100mm blocks.
This situation gets even worse when these frames are used on 95-100mm studwork, with up to an extra 8mm of extra Thistle having to be applied.
I've worked on quite a few jobs that have had their frames run up to the correct size but......

How many of you work on jobs where the frames are run to the correct size?
&
Do you charge more for the extra thickness's? I realise than in the present climate we're all swallowing more and more but what about in normal times.
 
If the casings are toi big on studwalls i mean 5-8 mm i skim to the back and dont bother fillin out they takin the pi ss
 
On my own jobs i make the liners to suit if needed, no big deal ripping a bit of timber down and knocking your own liners up.
 
Drives me mad, i try and get em ripped down to suit, but if they don't, i just build out with any spare from the second coat off the lid, then spread as norm on second gauge. i find i more frustrating when over-skimming and the chippies wont put grounds on the liners.
 
If you're working off the frame and working too it you've got no choice but to ask for extras andy but most lads would bend it I'm afraid
 
if too big i just skim up to them not bothering to fill them out then they will have to rebate the archi or ground the back of the archi fcuk em
 
I only pull out to liner if the job pays for it?....So the painter will have to run a bit of caulk down the back of architrave, sorted.
 
**** em. if they aint doing their job properly, or getting the chippy to do his job properly, im not taking the time to build it out. either go up to the frame and have a lip or bend it.
 
But steve, if you bend it, it makes you look a tw^t when the skirts are on. No-ones gonna blame the joiner.:RpS_mad:
 
Just lay it on and rule it ignore all the beads and frames and block rule the wall, dub out these areas when you're skimming
 
D'ya mean like, overfill it and then flatten it off? Maybe I'm being a bit dim, but I'm not sure what you mean. Can you draw me a picture pleeeeease?
 
Say you have a door in the middle of a wall rule the wall just don't rule off the frame, say you've started right to left and you're coming up to the right hand side of the frame you rule across away from the frame then up but not touching the frame then when you skim it you quickly dub out the frame then skim it
It's not really rocket science but it can help if you've got thick frames and beads it can help
 
LOL.......I think I got you. Like fill it out with the backing coat, but still leaving it slightly below full plaster depth, then pick up the remaining depth with a thicker than normal skim?
 
I don't understand you now lol don't fill anything out with the backing coat just lay it on 10-11mm rule it if you come up to a bead or doorframe and the bead or doorframe is thicker than 10-11mm rule the plaster but not off of the bead, basically you're saying ive put my 10mm on that's all you're getting lol, fill the rest out with skim like you would on plasterboard if the lining or beads heavy if it's really thick then obviously say something
 
Ah fuk it then. Whether we like it or not, we HAVE to work to the casings regardless of thickness, otherwise it'll look sh!te. :RpS_thumbup:
 
The inability of joiners to size and correctly fit a casing fu.cking astounds me. 9 out of 10 of them can't do it and it aint rocket science, it should be one of the first damn things they learn.

We as spreads have to have a good knowledge of what the other trades require and on the the whole I think we do.

I've come to the point now where, when I go to price a dot and dab job up and the casings aren't in, I tell them not to bother.

I dot and skim both sides of the opening, plumbing up and keeping the margins the same size all the way around.

It takes a bit longer but atleast I dont have to fu.ck about with pissed, too small or out of plumb casings.

The joiners love it coz they dont even have to use their levels, useless feckers.......and it pisses me off even more when I think about how they earn more than me most of the time!!
 
Trouble is other trades don't give a toss about who has to follow on from them just as long as there job is easy as poss . How many times have you heard it said that it will be ok the plasterers will get over it . jack T***s.
 
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