Dot & Dab 9" solid wall (no cavity insulation)

[Linton1990]

People have so many different ways of doing things now, it becomes very confusing on what is actually the best way!!. So i thought id see what different ways you would all deal with the following situation.

So the render/plaster in a bathroom is blown and comes away back to the brick. How would you treat a 9" solid external wall, i was taught to sand and cement render the wall, but bathroom fitters don't want to wait 28days for it to dry before they can tile. So normally they would request i dot & dab it with MR board. I was recently questioned about dot & dabbing a solid external wall creating damp between the wall and board. I can only see that this would be a problem if there was damp in the wall to start with. at which point that would need sorting first. How do you all deal with 9" solid walls with no cavity insulation?

 

[mikeweston]

Perhaps it's worth fixing batten to the wall first and then fix MR board to it or cement board. You could even put DPM behind the battens????

 

[Linton1990]

This is a good alternative to stop the damp transferring through the dot and dabs to the board. The only thing would be loosing space, as often space is a major priority in a bathroom

 

[Scubadoo]

Perhaps it's worth fixing batten to the wall first and then fix MR board to it or cement board. You could even put DPM behind the battens????

I agree with Mike on this, 2x1 planed battens is not much thicker than a dab really?

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[McBentLegs]

Battening isn't always possible, with the state of brickwork esspecially in older properties, no matter how many packers used etc/

 

[Jgreenplastering]

Walls will always hold a certain amount of moisture.
Controlling that amount of the moisture is the important part.
So if you have 9 inch solid walls as long as the external rendering is in good condition then I'd find it perfectly acceptable to dab a bathroom for tiling.
If it was a bedroom it would be a different story because the dabs would become cold spots and can show which is why I'd batten and board.
If your getting to much damp in the walls on first floor level it's because the external finish is in poor condition. That's another job that then needs doing


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[Jmcl101]

If you can't fix battens then Build a timber stud frame an inch of the wall, put a vapour barrier/tyvek under the head and floor plates. Board and set then off the the pub >>>>

 

[glen80]

I'd batten,board and skim. Other way you might be able to do is stick boards on with dry fix foam as that doesn't transfer damp .

 

[Linton1990]

My main concern would be in a half tiled bathroom that with dot & dabs the cold spots would eventually show through the paint, also i would be a bit concerned about dry fix foam taking the weight of tiles at all, even with mechanical fixings.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

My main concern would be in a half tiled bathroom that with dot & dabs the cold spots would eventually show through the paint, also i would be a bit concerned about dry fix foam taking the weight of tiles at all, even with mechanical fixings.

Could dab thermal plus boards on tight as poss and put some mechanical fixings in to hold.
These wouldn't transfer the cold spots.

Surely they will bring out an adhesive soon tiling straight over sand and cement or a board adhesive with some protection against damp!




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[McBentLegs]

You can already tile straight over sand and cement, plenty of adhesives (most) are suitable