Drawing block lines in render

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oasis

oasis

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again just looking for some tips here, I'm going to be rendring a patch on a mates house for some experience.

it has the block effect lines drawn on the render.

what is the best way to go about this?

i take it once its flat and firm u get a level out and draw lines so far apart then draw lines down every 400 or so?

do you guys use a measurement or is it all by eye.

thanks I'm going to be doing it end of net month.
 
it depends how wide you need them . if they dont need to be to wide the best and easiest way is to break a stone cutting disc in half a run this alon a straight edge ,this way no pressure you can do it when render is hard .if you want to practise with a cutter it is much more skillfull and timing is paramount.
 
As above it depends on what you have to copy , it could be as easy as finishing the render with a float and sponge and just drawing a line with a pointing trowel along the top of a straight edge .
 
If the lines are not deep or wide yes after its rubbed up , you may have to re- sponge after , but slowly slowly catcty monkey ;)
 
i asked this a few months ago, went for the stone disc method, was gonna take pics but couldn't be arsed to be honest! worked a treat, cheers rockhard! ;)
 
oasis said:
so when doing from fresh do you guys use a tape or just do it by eye?
Click to expand...
standard blocks are 9x18 (450x225 including a 10mm mortar joint)
bricks are 9x3 (225x75 inclusive of mortar joint)

so your looking at 440x215 and 215x65..

yes, unless youve got lazer eyes, use a tape measure ::)
 
how do you use battens ??? i have only done this type of work twice and i found it difficult and not that enjoyable to do i kept trying when the panel was to soft then i was leaving a 6 foot stabila mark on the wall then to hard and it was tearing slightly.

I like the idea of a cutting disc chopped down then cut them out the next day :)

Rich
 
think someone mentioned it already but in the absence of a pointing iron on brickwork next best thing is a bit of 15 or 22mm copper tube with a bend in it...

works just as well on render... same stuff, catch it at the same stage....


get a straight level wi no doglegs in it rich and it wont leave big gouges in t'wall ::)
 
when i did it i got on it the following day, used brickies corner blocks and line for bed joint and plumb line pinned the to soffet for perps. i put my straight edge up to them. luckily it was an old semi and i measured off of next door (they were 10" x 20")
 
As for the tool it depends on what size of joint you want, as i said before you can use anything from a bent 6inch nail to any size of pipe you want, its all about timing and can be a right pain depending on the weather but for example you run the pipe through along a straightedge and then wait until it has firmed a bit then run it again then you use a soft paint brush to tidy up any small snots then run it again and basicly carry on untill you are happy with it, setting out is the important bit as it is not like brickwork or blockwork as you make your own rules up so you dont get small looking pieces in corners also keep all vertical joints plumb by dropping a plumb bob down the centre of the wall and measuring of that or use a laser.
Lucius
 
thanks for all the asnswers i now can go and mess up my mates bk wall :-) least i can sound like i new wot i was on about!
 
try the old pointing iron / copper pipe trick on just floated render first mate, not too demanding cos all youre doing is denting it in a straight line really...
either that or let it go off and try the stone disc method..
peice of p'ss..
(does help to get someone to hold the straight edge / level for you though ;))
 
when u guys say stone disc what do you meen?(plz dnt say stone disc!) i meen like and angle grimber 4" blade? anyone got a link so i can see wot im ment to use
 
why would you cut the dist in half? do you not just use it at an angle of do you use it at a 90 angle to the wall dragging it along
 
Been doing these for years what I always found useful is an old saw file as it is triangular in shape and scores a nice neat line and as for block sizes you should go for 1 foot by 2 foot as it is supposed to mimick sandstone or bathstone and there sizes are alot larger, I did one with smaller block sizes and it dont look right and takes ages marking out also over the windows its quite effective to draw in a mullion or just a lintel if your not confident drawing mullions. This time of the year you can get on it in the after noon if you lay it all on early, winter time you can do it next day with ease, another tip is get an array of levels from a small boat to a 6 footer as it makes life easier around awkward areas, and once you have made the mark just brush it off as you go with a 2" brush.
 
those damn windows have f**k*d me right up in the past.

maybe its an idea to draw the panel on a piece of graph paper first and work out what your gonna do !!
 
iv only ever seen the blocks lines follow the revel round. must be a pain in the ass if you get half way down a wall and relize it dont work out with the window!
 
must be, same with tiling... get to the window and realise youre completely off centre and have a sh'tty little 6mm cut at the edge...

what you do is guage it out before you cut anything...

chippies call it 'measure twice, cut once'...

i call it 'use your loaf you muppet'... ;D
 
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