Dry lining over a soot wall

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homediyneil

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Hi,

First of all I will aapologise if this is in the wrong section, however I'm new to the forum and just as new to plastering / dry lining.

The wife and I bought a new house and we've taken down a chimney in one of the rooms. Two of the walls in the room now have soot on them and I've heard that the soot will come through it we simply get someone in to bond and skim it.
To save cost I was looking at dry lining this myself, so I've been watching a few videos and doing some reading and I've finally finished dry lining the new kitchen - just another 7 rooms to go!!
Anyway, my question is:

Can I simply do the following:
- use a hard brush and hoover and clear off as much soot as I can from the wall
- Wash the wall down and then let it dry
- Apply some PVA
- Dot and dab the wall using standard dry wall adhesive

I've read on this forum that people have used 'thistlebond', but I'm not sure if that's the roll on type of the mix? Either way I'm hoping someone out there has done this before and I'm not a million miles away with the steps above, so we can get cracking on making the house (building site) looking like a home.

Thanks for any advise / tips in advanced, Neil.
 
Hi Neil.
You would be better off cleaning the sections as much as possible then I would use a tanking slurry before rendering up with a sand and cement 4:1 mix with added salt inhibitor. Bring it level with existing wall using 2 coats allowing first to set for a few days.
Let this set then skim over.
This is the only way I know that won't allow the soot and salts to stain through to the new finish.
Doing it as you say is still using gypsum based products which isn't any good although dabbing will mean it will take longer to show through than using hardwall.
Will you be dry lining the whole wall or just the section the chimney was in?
If the latter you need to make sure you have enough depth to allow for around 5mm min of dab and then the board thickness so you finish flush with existing wall an then skim over to make good.
 
Thanks for the response Jgreen.
I forgot to mention the entire room is down to brick, so I'll be dry lining everything.
See the attached picture of the corner chimney we removed.

I suspect I'll need to take down the section on the ceiling and re-board this, so I don't have any issues with it coming through there, as I'm just going to overboard and then get this skimmed.

Dry lining over a soot wall
 
I see.
You could still dry line but I'd still tank and put a scratch coat on in those areas just to try and hold it back as much as possible.
Last thing you want is to dab straight over and in a year you start to see the dab spots through the paint where it's sucking through the salts.
Things like this you can't judge how long it will last if not done properly.
Others may come along and give some other useful advice so hold out a bit and see.
 
OK thanks again Jgreen.
I've just had a quote from a plasterer and he's talking about using the damp proof membrane over the top of it. So a lot of drilling to fix the membrane and then he's going to simply dot and dab over the top of that.

I'll wait and see what other people suggest and do some more reading online.
 
[emoji36][emoji36][emoji36] yes that's even better, don't know why I didn't think of that!
Use that just the 3mm mesh ones with some plastic plug fixings.
You can use the above ground membrane as they are perfect for this and cost less than the below ground one.

Just fix it where you will put the dabs and that saves time.
Take it past the soot 300mm and that a be plenty!
Sorry I should of said this straight away my mind was blank trying to think!
 
Not soot related, but what's above that room? Has the chimney breast been removed above that point?
 
Dab some metal studding to the wall & screw boards to it. This will save the hassle of drilling & fixing battens, and you will also have a straighter wall ready for skimming, use a line to dab them on
 
To imago and CTPlastering.

The chimney has been taken out up to the loft and I've had some gallow brackets fitted.
So when I finally get to the first floor I'll be tackling that room then. At the moment the ground floor is the priority, as the kitchen is being delivered soon and the new kitchen as just been skimmed.

JGreen, no worries :) I generally have them, even more so as I'm juggling project managing the build, I've just been married and I'm possibly changing job roles - so not much going on here!

Cheers for the rest of the advise chaps. I now have a few more ideas to lookup / review as I'll be doing this myself, as much as possible.
 
Thanks for that, I'll look into that. However there's a few insulated boards on the market, so which ones would be suitable for a job like this?

I've only done a quick search on the wickes / b&q website thus far.
 
BG Thermoline basic 22mm board. The insulation acts as a barrier to stop the transfer of the soot stains.

It'll also warm the wall surface up a bit.
 
Thermaline basic doesn't have the vapour barrier, you would need the next board up the Thermaline plus. This would be more costly than the membrane over the soot section an standard board but would give the insulation benefit although it's not really needed on a party wall.
 
Batten the wall and screw boards to the battens. If you do Dab it and soot comes through just buy some stin block and repaint it
 
If it was my house and IF they're exterior walls I would maybe do gyp line it. Thermal and acoustic improvements. Depends on how much space you have to play with.
 
It needs a vapour barrier to stop the staining of the soot to the surface?
That's the whole point of the OP's post.
He wants to stop anything from showing up once it is finished.
A bit of poxy polystyrene on the BASIC with dabs could still transfer the staining through to the surface, the vapour barrier PLUS board would stop this.
 
Cheapest way out is the metal stud mf10, dabbed on, don't know why your still all talking about it [emoji23]
 
Reinstate the fireplace will ventilate the room stopping the soot staining any future decorations and controlling humidity
 
Not a thing you'd see often Clemo, but can get you out of a hole.
I'm sure you've been on work where they've battened old walls, boarded them, they are absolutely all over the place and require a price for 'skimming'!
Also saves the hassle of drilling & plugging bricks or stone that either break up or are like feckin granite
 
Ignore all the nonsense above.

These are your options:

I notice in the picture that's a concrete floor, so what you could do is:

•Build a thermalite block wall in front of the brick wall then float & set or dab & skim
•Or you could build a timber stud wall in front of it then board & skim
•Or you could build a metal stud frame in front of it & board & skim
•Or you could knock the wall down rebuild then float & set or dab & skim
•Or you could build a brick chimney breast in front of where the soot is this would get rid of the soot problem
•Or you could build a fake chimney breast with timber stud & plasterboard & do a wallcrete brick effect on it
•Or you could just move house.


Plenty of options, Hope this helps :sisi:
 
Why build a metal stud when he can dab vertical strips of mf10 on? With one across the bottom for the skirting?
 
BigK said:
Not a thing you'd see often Clemo, but can get you out of a hole.
I'm sure you've been on work where they've battened old walls, boarded them, they are absolutely all over the place and require a price for 'skimming'!
Also saves the hassle of drilling & plugging bricks or stone that either break up or are like feckin granite
Click to expand...

Depends who's put the battens up & wether packers where used.

I remember one customer put some up before I started a job ffs they was all over the place lol :D

No need to plug the bricks drill straight through timber & wall & use hammer fixings piece of p1ss. :bailando:

Anyway he only needs to bridge the soot area the rest of the wall can be dabbed as normal.

I wouldn't fancy dabbing anything directly onto soot without p1ssin about cleaning it first.


BigK said:
Why build a metal stud when he can dab vertical strips of mf10 on? With one across the bottom for the skirting?
Click to expand...

I wasn't been serious, read it all again :rolleyes:
 
BigK said:
Why build a metal stud when he can dab vertical strips of mf10 on? With one across the bottom for the skirting?
Click to expand...
Speaking of skirting, he could just fix one massive floor to ceiling size length of skirting over the wall. Too many f**k**s on here over complicate stuff
 
This thread is useless without pics!

Dry lining over a soot wall


That photo taken out of gyproc installation guide [emoji106][emoji51]
 
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