Fireplaces

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FreeD

FreeD

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Got a brickwork fireplace to put backing coat/board on then skim...usually I use sand/cement but is there a quicker alternative that won't crack up with heat (working open fire)?

Ta
 
sand and cement mate with lime i think it has to be at least 300 either side and 400 over the top then you need to use victas plaster gypsum will crack under the heat
 
They want the face left with brickwork exposed...how would you stop the render on the reveals? stop bead...feather it in?
 
hard edge mate as chris said stop beads will also expand and contract under the heat and the stuff on the wing could blow, hard edge every day of the week mate.
 
there is no heat...got that wrong fireplace no longer in use...what do you mean by a hard edge? the reveal will be painted so needs to be skimmed, do i square off the edge?
 
What I plan to do is plasterboard the reveals d&d leave the board over hanging over the face then cut back to the face flush, measure 3 mm top and bottom on board, rasp it down, then fill in gap, bead it and skim, should look good what you reckon?
 
hard edge - square edge with no bead on it...

you'll need...

1 batten...

2 masonary nails, or an extra 2 hands...

or some of these dutch pin things that these old timers keep bangin on about?

now get thinking..... :RpS_wink:
 
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ok m8 so attach the batten to the face with a 15mm overhang onto the reveal then bond it up remove batten...BUT! it needs to be painted so has to be skimmed?
 
bond it? thought you were rendering it? oh s**t you moved the goalposts!!!

bead it and skim it then?

what was the question?
 
Appreciate your help on this one m8 got to do it tmw, i see what your saying but if you have a hard edge flush with the face how do you then allow for 3mm of skim?
 
There will be no heat so no need to s/c it...can use bonding/hardwall...but it needs to be painted...if you use wet plaster do you have to cut the bonding back once yuou have removed the batten bead then skim?
 
tell you what, lets think outside the box for a minute on what is quite a common dilemma...

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then once youve looked at that, have a think about how you could create something that looks attractive using nothing but render and paint..

just ideas, thats all...
if you really wanna skim it, feather it dead straight, not taper off.... dead straight from **** all to 15 mil... and skim it...
shitty lookin edge, but what you gonna do? architrave it off? use a surround of some description? let the punter do the thinkin mate, your only paid from the neck down...
 
Some mixed opinions on best methods for fireplace skimming.

The method I have used in the past is to render in 2 coats, 5.1.1 then 6.1.1 sand, cement, lime to 15mm. Then if skim is required attach thin coat beads to the opening and skim inside with fireproof plaster and the outside of the breast in multi.

I've not had callbacks so far but was wondering if there's any probs with this method?
 
I was told by a fireplace company to do hard angles as apposed to beading as the metal can expand and contract causing cracks
 
Done properly they look no different to an angle bead one painted. They are more vulnerable so you need to weigh it up. I've done a couple with beads and heard of no problems but om sure others have had cracks
 
i usually go for no beads skim all the inside and outside up to 300 or so above head of opening in victas then the rest upwards in multi
 
Form your hard corner with clean laths ,for both s+c and skim,just set the laths a few mm out to form arris in skim ,then when set ,gently tap off and return skim to formed arris


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