Forming a perfect swerve onto a bellcast bead

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spredz

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Here is my top tip for creating that perfect even sweep down onto a render bellcast bead;

I will assume that you have already taken the trouble to fill out your bellcast bead to leave a standard thickness coating of 8to10mm by either doing so with the scratchcoat or using a strong mix of material first thing in the morning so it sets quicker than the rest of your render. Don't be mixing your material with gypsum now!

If you didn't fill out your bellcast bead with your scratchcoat and you have to do it on the same day you render you might want to get a roofing batten drilled and fixed under it for the panel you're on or pin it with some stainless steel screws if you're working over block and can screw into them so as to take the additional weight of the bellcast bead.

1. Apply your main wall area without applying the final few inches down to the bead
2. Rule off, fill in and rule off again your main wall area before worrying about the bead. Leave only the part of the wall that 'kicks out' to the bellcast bead.
3. When applying the last few inches of muck to the bellcast bead apply it diagonally DOWNWARDS onto the bead. Do not apply it upwards as this will often form a bump or ridge in the wall area that you have already flattened and ruled off and this bump becomes very difficult to remove!!
4. As you apply the muck diagonally downwards, every 3 or so trowel fulls use your trowel to gently rule upwards as you go along to remove any lumps or high spots and fill in any hollows as you go. I find this quicker than getting to the end of the run and doubling back with the straight edge to rule up and tripling back to fill in and quadrupling back to rule off again)
5. Be sure you are not bulging over the bellcast bead anywhere. Be sure you are not hollow over the bellcast bead as you go along.
6. Once you get to the end of the run you should have a nice tidy lip out to the bellcast applied.
7. Once this is suitably firmed up you can float it diagonally upwards and/or downwards onto/off of the bead as necessary using just the edge of your float.
8. Sponge the same way as you float it
9. Wrap a little edge of sponge onto your thumb and clean along the bead so it shines once complete to really set off the effect of the bellcast bead. (you need to have bothered your ass to have done this with the scratchcoat as well if you want a clean shiny bead)

If you follow the steps above you should get a PERFECT gentle swerve down onto your bellcast bead with no lumps, bumps, overhangs or hollows.
 
Why would you curve into the drip bead the render should be flat going down to it
 
Why would you curve into the drip bead the render should be flat going down to it

Not necessarily Gary. The stainless bellmouth beads I use allow between 20-25mm (if nailed), and you only need 16mm for a standard two coat render.
Having said all that I can't understand the need for the long winded explanation of how to do something any spread will achieve without even thinking about it.
 
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Having said all that I can't understand the need for the long winded explanation of how to do something any spread will achieve without even thinking about it.

True ting Essexandy although there are a lot of coursers and wannabees that read this site and i have seen experienced trowel hands make a very average job of it and create a lumpy ridge above it. Not everyone that calls themselves a spread is as good as you blood.

And Gibbo...I prefer to muck the Bellcast beads on after the scratchcoat goes on which creates quite a pronounced sweep down onto it.
 
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