Gaps between boards

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Working on a house thats had hard wall used on extention. Celcon.blocks. there's cracks all over. I was going to the job but only if i could use boards and scim it. I dont think it would had so many cracks. Wot your opinion.
 
essexandy said:
We've done a few eco builds that are lined out with OSB and I can't ever remember seeing or being told about a crack on one.
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If you are joining boards on a joist or rafter you have 44mm divided by 2 which leaves you 22mm for each board. Then you have to leave a gap. Your screw is 4mm with a 6mm head. You would have to believe in miracles. I bet in most houses there is only the tape and plaster holding the joints of boards over the timber after a few years time.
 
satan said:
But are cracked ceilings caused by the joints or the wood the boards are on moving because of different humidity levels, settlement or by whats going on upstairs? Usually the wood moving is the cause for cracks.

That would be the reason yes.
That's why I prefer my plaster to be pushed into joints making the thickness 12.5 mm
Instead of 2mm to 3mm over a butt joint.

satan said:
If you are joining boards on a joist or rafter you have 44mm divided by 2 which leaves you 22mm for each board. Then you have to leave a gap. Your screw is 4mm with a 6mm head. You would have to believe in miracles. I bet in most houses there is only the tape and plaster holding the joints of boards over the timber after a few years time.
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A gap of 3mm. 1.5mm on each board is hardly making a difference.
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satan said:
You miss the point. It's the timber the boards are fixed too that is moving ......so the weakest part of the board cracks........the joint.
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Not missed the point.
The point is if the joint is stronger with gear pushed into join or just bridged over joint.

I have looked at previous threads on this site concerning this mater and it seems to be 50/50. And just what ever floats your boat.
 
Feck this said:
Not missed the point.
The point is if the joint is stronger with gear pushed into join or just bridged over joint.

I have looked at previous threads on this site concerning this mater and it seems to be 50/50. And just what ever floats your boat.
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So are you saying none of your board joints ever crack because you use this method?
 
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satan said:
So are you saying none of your board joints ever crack because you use this method?
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Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.
I have thought about using no nails to adhere boards together. Effectively creating one board but again raw edges would need pva. I think this would be stronger again.
 
MIXERMAN said:
Working on a house thats had hard wall used on extention. Celcon.blocks. there's cracks all over. I was going to the job but only if i could use boards and scim it. I dont think it would had so many cracks. Wot your opinion.
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Is it the Hardwall that has cracked/crazed due to lack of suction control or straight line cracks where it's the actual blockwork that has failed?
 
Feck this said:
Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.
I have thought about using no nails to adhere boards together. Effectively creating one board but again raw edges would need pva. I think this would be stronger again.
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Do you not think that perhaps it's the double scrimming that has reduced the cracks?
 
Feck this said:
Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.
I have thought about using no nails to adhere boards together. Effectively creating one board but again raw edges would need pva. I think this would be stronger again.
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jamesthefirst said:
I paper tape, virtually bullet proof regard cracks.
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Never tried it, I don't know if it's habit or the amount of paper tape I've had to remove from ceilings and walls that have been taped. I would say it won't bed in the same as scrim.
 
coldman said:
Hi all

I have just plasterboard over a ceiling but unfortunately some of the boards aren't as close as i'd like them to be, i would say the worst gaps are about 5mm wide. This is because I did it by myself which is not an easy task. Im just wondering if gaps of that size will be acceptable when we get the plasterer in?

I don't really want to have to take them down to reline them.

Thanks for reading
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If you have a gap in your plasterboard ING and then put tape over gap when it is skimmed it will sag we're the gap is and be a nightmare to finnsnh
 
paulf said:
Never tried it, I don't know if it's habit or the amount of paper tape I've had to remove from ceilings and walls that have been taped. I would say it won't bed in the same as scrim.
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Like any technique if done properly will last the test of time, it is time consuming so can put most people off.
 
jamesthefirst said:
Like any technique if done properly will last the test of time, it is time consuming so can put most people off.
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I'm neither yay nor nay as I haven't tried it. Coming from a time when scrim was bedded in it probably wouldn't bother me.
 
I'll just repeat what I said earlier.......... If you are joining boards on a joist or rafter you have 44mm divided by 2 which leaves you 22mm for each board. Then you have to leave a gap. Your screw is 4mm with a 6mm head. You would have to believe in miracles. I bet in most houses there is only the tape and plaster holding the joints of boards over the timber after a few years time.

The edge of the board which has no strength and moving timber is your problem.
 
satan said:
Go on then................tell us how you glue your boards together?
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Cut boards square to mid joist
Cut a piece of board 10mm short of the gap between the joists
Glue it in place
Put board up
Do the parallel board and put it up
Back to the continuation of the first board.....
Cut the next board to length
Glue the joining piece of plasterboard , put the joining board up
The join is propped till the glue dries
 
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