If you are joining boards on a joist or rafter you have 44mm divided by 2 which leaves you 22mm for each board. Then you have to leave a gap. Your screw is 4mm with a 6mm head. You would have to believe in miracles. I bet in most houses there is only the tape and plaster holding the joints of boards over the timber after a few years time.We've done a few eco builds that are lined out with OSB and I can't ever remember seeing or being told about a crack on one.
But are cracked ceilings caused by the joints or the wood the boards are on moving because of different humidity levels, settlement or by whats going on upstairs? Usually the wood moving is the cause for cracks.
That would be the reason yes.
That's why I prefer my plaster to be pushed into joints making the thickness 12.5 mm
Instead of 2mm to 3mm over a butt joint.
A gap of 3mm. 1.5mm on each board is hardly making a difference.If you are joining boards on a joist or rafter you have 44mm divided by 2 which leaves you 22mm for each board. Then you have to leave a gap. Your screw is 4mm with a 6mm head. You would have to believe in miracles. I bet in most houses there is only the tape and plaster holding the joints of boards over the timber after a few years time.
Not missed the point.You miss the point. It's the timber the boards are fixed too that is moving ......so the weakest part of the board cracks........the joint.
Not missed the point.
The point is if the joint is stronger with gear pushed into join or just bridged over joint.
I have looked at previous threads on this site concerning this mater and it seems to be 50/50. And just what ever floats your boat.
Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.So are you saying none of your board joints ever crack because you use this method?
Is it the Hardwall that has cracked/crazed due to lack of suction control or straight line cracks where it's the actual blockwork that has failed?Working on a house thats had hard wall used on extention. Celcon.blocks. there's cracks all over. I was going to the job but only if i could use boards and scim it. I dont think it would had so many cracks. Wot your opinion.
Do you not think that perhaps it's the double scrimming that has reduced the cracks?Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.
I have thought about using no nails to adhere boards together. Effectively creating one board but again raw edges would need pva. I think this would be stronger again.
could be but the plaster needs somewhere to go to grab skrim.Do you not think that perhaps it's the double scrimming that has reduced the cracks?
Since I have started being anal about ensuring I have gap to fill (fully) between boards. No not one crack . I have also pva'd bare edges (not paper ones) to ensure decent bonding of skim to raw edge. Then dbl scrum. You have to push gear in quite firmly. And on properties that I own and been able to see long term effects. On new extensions, old properties and refurbished.
I have thought about using no nails to adhere boards together. Effectively creating one board but again raw edges would need pva. I think this would be stronger again.
Thought any gap and artex sagsActually John it was back when Artex was common that the spec was for a 'penny gap' or 2-3mm and the boards were nailed up.
Same idea as lath the plaster fills the gap an creates a key behind the gap. The problem is modern finishes are brittle and will hairline crack despite it being scrimmed.
Never tried it, I don't know if it's habit or the amount of paper tape I've had to remove from ceilings and walls that have been taped. I would say it won't bed in the same as scrim.I paper tape, virtually bullet proof regard cracks.
If you have a gap in your plasterboard ING and then put tape over gap when it is skimmed it will sag we're the gap is and be a nightmare to finnsnhHi all
I have just plasterboard over a ceiling but unfortunately some of the boards aren't as close as i'd like them to be, i would say the worst gaps are about 5mm wide. This is because I did it by myself which is not an easy task. Im just wondering if gaps of that size will be acceptable when we get the plasterer in?
I don't really want to have to take them down to reline them.
Thanks for reading
the boards where taped and caulked before theartex went on JohnThought any gap and artex sags
Thought any gap and artex sags
Probably just a personal preference then mate. I just can't see the paper tape being as strong as the fibreglass...I paper tape, virtually bullet proof regard cracks.
Never tried it, I don't know if it's habit or the amount of paper tape I've had to remove from ceilings and walls that have been taped. I would say it won't bed in the same as scrim.
Probably just a personal preference then mate. I just can't see the paper tape being as strong as the fibreglass...
Thats why you dub any scrimmed gaps before you skim.If you have a gap in your plasterboard ING and then put tape over gap when it is skimmed it will sag we're the gap is and be a nightmare to finnsnh
Thats why you dub any scrimmed gaps before you skim.
Yes but don't make work for your self job is hard enoughThats why you dub any scrimmed gaps before you skim.
I'm neither yay nor nay as I haven't tried it. Coming from a time when scrim was bedded in it probably wouldn't bother me.Like any technique if done properly will last the test of time, it is time consuming so can put most people off.
True, I always mix what I need to coat out and then mix what need to skim.I find most put second coat on too soon so when dried you see a shadow/lump especially when painted. If
Its not hard if that's your process, the hard part is having no process. There's a thing called repetition your ment to learn from it.Yes but don't make work for your self job is hard enough
The paper tape is 7 times stronger.Probably just a personal preference then mate. I just can't see the paper tape being as strong as the fibreglass...
Go on then................tell us how you glue your boards together?Is it a good time to mention glued boards mid joist
Cut boards square to mid joistGo on then................tell us how you glue your boards together?
And you expected a straight answer on here?.uck. me I only asked about hardwall cracking. Stick boards.or solid plaster on celcon blocks.