Gate piers

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stevo2011

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Hi Fellas,

Just wondering if anyone can give me some sound advise.........

Basically I part own and electric gate company and we have a large project in the pipline.

we are building 2m gate piers out of concrete blocks (my partner is a very good brick layer)

The piers are to have rsj's and filled with concrete then rendered, we will finish the tops with piercaps.

a few years ago I done a 10 week City&Guilds plastering course so I feel confident to render the piers myself.

.I always used steel render beads when training, but plastic is cheaper which is best? (we will use stainless if we go for metal)

.What is best to fix the beads pug or adhesive (external)

.Should I use lime in both the scratch coat and top coat? what is the correct ratio I was gonna use 4-1 for scratch (no lime) 4-1-1 for the finishing coat!

.I was gonna use waterproofer in both coats is this correct?

.I am planning to use fibres to help prevent any cracking, thoughts?

.What would the correct thickness be for each coat?

.How critical is the fixing beads procudure i.e get all plumb in both directions roughly equal measurment between the beads.
I have put a square on other peoples work and have never seen a proper square pier is it just a case of ''good by eye'' as i dont want to fanny about too much lol.


Thanks so much guys for any advise given I cant tell you how much I appriciate your valuble time!!!!!
 
If they've gotta be that heavy duty. Assuming they've got rsj cores, then why not just buy some shuttering ply and cast them? Two moulds, dead square, sorted!
 
andyR said:
If they've gotta be that heavy duty. Assuming they've got rsj cores, then why not just buy some shuttering ply and cast them? Two moulds, dead square, sorted!
Click to expand...

thats what I was thinking then finish off with a thin coat base and top
 
plasterjfe said:
thats what I was thinking then finish off with a thin coat base and top
Click to expand...

Exactly, gotta be cheaper and take a lot less time, plus if u make yr shuttering right then u can re-use it if you've a repeat at any point. Gotta be stronger than block and take less time I reckon.
 
Hi Guys, Thanks so much I like the idea but is that a 'normal' thing to do, i.e I have never seen that done!
Do you mean cast with ballast? then bead up and finish with one coat of render?

How would you make the moulds.

cheers fellas
 
Makes my blood boil 10 week C&G course whatever that is and it seems like they taught you fcuk all if your brickie partner is as good as you say he should have the answers anyway.
 
Nail on 10mm drip (bellcast) beads to the bottom. Stick on or nail angle beads making sure they are flush with the drip beads and using a straight edge and level, plumb them up. Apply 1 coat of S&C 1/2 thickness 4, washed plastering sand to 1 cement with a waterproofer added. The liquid stuff from Wickes works well. Follow the dosage instructions. scratch while wet in wavy lines half depth to create a key. Allow to set. 2nd coat 5 washed plastering sand to 1 cement. I would use feb plasticiser but the waterproofer additive has it in already so you could use that again but I prefer not to put waterproofer in 2nd coats, if you are going to paint it after then it doesn't matter. Apply the second coat and rule off the bead edges. At this time of year it will not set in the day unless you use accelerators but do your research if you are going to mix chemicals. Rub up with a plastic float when firmed up.
 
Hi again,

I think some of you guys need to calm down a bit with the blood boiling :flapper: I did learn how to render to a basic level but as im sure you will agree there is a lot of contradictory information out there and it seems that no 2 spreads do things the same. I was taught to add waterproofer to all coats unlike rigsby (thanks btw rigsby) and judging by some of the work I have seen out there there is a lot of cocky guys that think they know everything but dont!!!!


I just want to make sure that I do the job in the right way! im not a cowboy and i take pride in doing a good job, all i wanted was a few pointers from you good lot.


sorry if i have upset anyone.......
 
build them in nice brick up to 150mm above ground level then concrete blocks with re-bar and concrete in the void.
bead the whole lot with 15mm plastic corner and drip beads (stick these on with grip fill or liquid nails) leave bicks exposed,
then monocouche the pillars take the monocouche 2-3mm over the beads then when set scrape back to the beads should be a doddle
 
stevo2011 said:
Hi again,I think some of you guys need to calm down a bit with the blood boiling :flapper: I did learn how to render to a basic level but as im sure you will agree there is a lot of contradictory information out there and it seems that no 2 spreads do things the same. I was taught to add waterproofer to all coats unlike rigsby (thanks btw rigsby) and judging by some of the work I have seen out there there is a lot of cocky guys that think they know everything but dont!!!! I just want to make sure that I do the job in the right way! im not a cowboy and i take pride in doing a good job, all i wanted was a few pointers from you good lot.sorry if i have upset anyone.......
Click to expand...
Get someone to do it if you want it done proper you feckin tit ......hello I make gates I went on a course years ago can I ask some advice ? Basically can I ask you step by step how it's done because it was that long ago I can't remember or is it because I've forgot ...oh and before you lay into me I know what I'm doing lol
 
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