hardwall over carlite

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triggermala

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Hi, this is my first post , my problem is that i have tried to straighten out an internal wall in the bathroom which had a large hump in the middle of it which i have hacked off but managed to take to much off leaving a hollow area ,the wall is made of some sort of dark grey coke type blocks. i have applied some pva and put a coat of carlite bonding on the area but still needs more to bring it back out to the required level, my question is can i use hardwall on top of the carlite as i need it to be fairly thick. the other option is to plasterboard and tank. any help would be much appreciated.
 
triggermala said:
Hi, this is my first post , my problem is that i have tried to straighten out an internal wall in the bathroom which had a large hump in the middle of it which i have hacked off but managed to take to much off leaving a hollow area ,the wall is made of some sort of dark grey coke type blocks. i have applied some pva and put a coat of carlite bonding on the area but still needs more to bring it back out to the required level, my question is can i use hardwall on top of the carlite as i need it to be fairly thick. the other option is to plasterboard and tank. any help would be much appreciated.
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Dot and dab moisture resistant plasterboard on to it,
 
You can just pva the entire wall and give it a cost of thistle bonding to get it flat. Although some say you shouldn't use gypsum based plaster in wet areas so its either knock it off and sand cement it or dab mr boards or stud and mr boards. Depends what extent you want to go to
 
Knock off the existing. dont dab over it. If it comes to it you can fix some laths to the wall so would only bring it out 30mm
 
In theory you can't dab MR boards without a coat of Kontakt or bondit first on the back of the board. If you want to skim it then you should also prep as above.
 
I knew they said to prep before skimming but I did not know about the prep before dabbing. Not that id probably do it
 
I know mr boards are meant to be pva'd before skimming but have never done it due to the fact firms wouldn't supply it and had no probs last big site I was on I asked about the pva for it and the foreman and our gaffer both said why! Then our gaffer came back after and said are you really meant to do that ?!says it all
 
Bought some thistle bond today as the architect is anal, he pulled us using silver screws in the plasterboard of the bathroom, says they will rust and we should of used black ones, it was done before I got there but never heard this before..
 
the silver screws are zinc coated and shouldn't rust as drywall screws come both black and silver?? (am sure you know this) and seems to me the architect has got it wrong. let's face it they never get everything right do they?
 
Same guy who is getting us to use joint filler prior to skimming to"hide the joints" have to put heavy coat on anyway as down lighters are 5 mm depth
 
Zinc screws all that way. Cheapest place is toolstation and you dont get those nasty splinters like the black f**k**s
 
You could dab them with something first if they're that fussed................don't know what like :RpS_confused:
 
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