Help with drylining

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

milz2k3

New Member
Hi chaps, first things first I hate drylining and have never really had to do it but a big job has come up and I cant afford to turn it down. I know the basics, Ive done taping and jointing before, but theres a few things I've come across here that I haven't before. So the questions I'd like answered are:

1) The walls are about 2.7m from the floor so I have to use a full board plus a cut one above that, obviously I line the tapered edges up but what about the join at the top between the two boards, there isn't a taper so what do I do there?

2) As a plasterer it pains me to have to put up anything but beads around windows and skim them but he wont have it, so what do I do here, I'm aware that there is tape but surely its going to look awful?

I've got a few flats to do like this so anyone who knows could you please give me an idea of how to get a good finish, I'm a bit down as I take pride in my work and just can't see how this is going to look anywhere near as good as skimming it.

Thanks
Matt
 
First thing to make life easier is to get 2.7 board instead of 2.4 the extra coat will be offset by making it quicker to stick the boards and save on joints.
You will always end up with some joints which aren't tapered and you will need to feather the joint wider to lose the joint.
Tape on external angles can look fine if done right but you can also still use beads (these are quite often specified anyway).
 
that bead on a roll...
is it any good for skimming? only thincote p'sses me right off having to lay on real thick round em...
 
yeh i know.. but is it any good for skimming or what? anything to make life easier innit?
does anybody else feel that a 3mm thincote is too thick for a 2mm coat of skim? as long as you can set beads square they should make em a bit thinner imo..
 
thincote angle beads church...

take reveals for example... using a thincote means the whole reveal has to go on thick... pain in the arse.. squint the bead round a bit and you use a bleedin hawkfull backin out ramps before you topcoat it... i end up using loads of mix round windows, much more that what i'd use to cover the window area if it wasnt there...
 
Depends on which make of bead you use mate really ,some you can "push on " a bit tighter to get them right some are to rigid like "simpson beads" total crap imo , there are a few makes out there
 
think ive come across the 'mesh' ones before.. i find them a bit better... dunno where they came from though cos they got supplied... i usually end up with the 'standard' rigid ones...
 
Chris W said:
thincote angle beads church...

take reveals for example... using a thincote means the whole reveal has to go on thick... pain in the arse.. squint the bead round a bit and you use a bleedin hawkfull backin out ramps before you topcoat it... i end up using loads of mix round windows, much more that what i'd use to cover the window area if it wasnt there...
Click to expand...
seggs if youve got a set with windows in dub the beads out with skim and start another wall when you come back round to skim it its a lot easier mate
 
are they thinner than normal paul? might be interested... chd whittlesey doing em same price but theyre a bit thick... like the wickes ones.. you comin down to your bros' anytime?
 
spunky said:
Chris W said:
thincote angle beads church...

take reveals for example... using a thincote means the whole reveal has to go on thick... pain in the arse.. squint the bead round a bit and you use a bleedin hawkfull backin out ramps before you topcoat it... i end up using loads of mix round windows, much more that what i'd use to cover the window area if it wasnt there...
Click to expand...
seggs if youve got a set with windows in dub the beads out with skim and start another wall when you come back round to skim it its a lot easier mate
Click to expand...
yeh its what i normally do on a full room reskim mate,
but take yesterday... i had the conny to do, dabbed up in the morning, beaded up with the dabbin but i dont like dubbin out with dabbin cos i find the skim goes off a bit funny over it..
anyway, hit the conny in one go and topped with the same mix and cos it was on thick round the doors etc i had to let it go right off and then shine the daylights out of the edges to get it back flat again...
should have mixed up again for a bit of toppin and flattened off a bit round the beads first.. but i'd have been looking at sod all so it wasnt worth it..
 
spunky said:
Chris W said:
thincote angle beads church...

take reveals for example... using a thincote means the whole reveal has to go on thick... pain in the arse.. squint the bead round a bit and you use a bleedin hawkfull backin out ramps before you topcoat it... i end up using loads of mix round windows, much more that what i'd use to cover the window area if it wasnt there...
Click to expand...
seggs if youve got a set with windows in dub the beads out with skim and start another wall when you come back round to skim it its a lot easier mate
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum mate
 
Chris ive never had a problem with skim beads tbh , do you just lay them up and nail or staple or stick ?
 
[/quote]
yeh its what i normally do on a full room reskim mate,
but take yesterday... i had the conny to do, dabbed up in the morning, beaded up with the dabbin but i dont like dubbin out with dabbin cos i find the skim goes off a bit funny over it..
anyway, hit the conny in one go and topped with the same mix and cos it was on thick round the doors etc i had to let it go right off and then shine the daylights out of the edges to get it back flat again...
should have mixed up again for a bit of toppin and flattened off a bit round the beads first.. but i'd have been looking at sod all so it wasnt worth it..

[/quote]
sounds like the perfect time for a bit of scouring Chris it would have made it a piece of cake without having to polish it.
 
church said:
Chris ive never had a problem with skim beads tbh , do you just lay them up and nail or staple or stick ?
Click to expand...
stick em up with skim mate.. doesnt help on reskims when the reveal angles wobbly...
same with board tbh...
i do give a whack sometimes to try and splay em a bit but it doesnt seem to work too well..
 
yeh its what i normally do on a full room reskim mate,
but take yesterday... i had the conny to do, dabbed up in the morning, beaded up with the dabbin but i dont like dubbin out with dabbin cos i find the skim goes off a bit funny over it..
anyway, hit the conny in one go and topped with the same mix and cos it was on thick round the doors etc i had to let it go right off and then shine the daylights out of the edges to get it back flat again...
should have mixed up again for a bit of toppin and flattened off a bit round the beads first.. but i'd have been looking at sod all so it wasnt worth it..

[/quote]
yeh never thought mate... that 'mysterious' float you use.. its a bit of chipboard flooring right?
sounds like the perfect time for a bit of scouring Chris it would have made it a piece of cake without having to polish it.
[/quote]
 
I see what you mean now ::) try grip fill / pink grip tooth paste size bead right on the arris and then stick the wings with scrim .
 
Chris W said:
think ive come across the 'mesh' ones before.. i find them a bit better... dunno where they came from though cos they got supplied... i usually end up with the 'standard' rigid ones...
Click to expand...
b+q do the mesh ones i love em thats all we hused in the states and they staple on good ,nail on good and bed on good
 
church said:
I see what you mean now ::) try grip fill / pink grip tooth paste size bead right on the arris and then stick the wings with scrim .
Click to expand...
nah its not sticking em on mate, its the fact that if ive got to get em on then skim em without basing em out (like one coating really) its the old 'thick skim' problem..
like reveals, to get em square to the corner its gotta be on thick all the way across, specially the heads where it tends to slope up a bit..
what i could do with is some thinner bead so i dont have to mess about basing em out, those mesh beads seem better.. i was wondering if the bead on a roll they use for drylining could be used for skiming with cos it looks pretty thin..
i normally get round it by doing what spunky said, stick em on with skim and run a trowel full up the edge, then get on something else.. hit em second set then theres no worries...
i just cant understand how these days skim really can, or needs to go on thin, like andy said in another post 1.5-2mm max on a straight wall, then theres the thincote beads that sit 3mm or more proud leaving you with no choice than to ramp up albeit as unobtrusively as possible over a wider area on the wall side and a full 3-4mm thick across the reveal..
if i was to be really precious about it i'd have to lay up 3-4mm across the entire window wall to get it dead flat, not usually a problem i know but if you have to tile it afterwards its noticeable..
 
rockhardsolidplastering said:
Chris W said:
think ive come across the 'mesh' ones before.. i find them a bit better... dunno where they came from though cos they got supplied... i usually end up with the 'standard' rigid ones...
Click to expand...
b+q do the mesh ones i love em thats all we hused in the states and they staple on good ,nail on good and bed on good
Click to expand...
nice one ill check that out mate... are they made by catnic?
 
solid dab your reveals or anywhere else a skim bead is goin and nail them on simple, sack the mesh beads unless its a curved angle coz these beads bend like f**k.
 
Going back to the original question tape and jointing is not that hard but if the job is big enough and youve not realy done it before ide sub it out to a pro taper and jointer and watch and learn for the next time.
Lucius
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Share this page

Back
Top