help with screeding

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DominoRemoved

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any one screeding then lads as im thinking of giving it a go soon.
I know how to mix and level it off but im stuck on the building up the floor.
ie thickness and what go's were
PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME
 
Just keep tipping the barrows until you reach the required thickness or do you mean how do you find your levels ?
bottom of stairs / door frames or get the site agent to put you in a level and use a metre stick.

Good luck floor screeding is F**king hard work
 
sorry lds blond moment.
wht I meen is depth of hardcore/sand blinding/what grade membraine/ whats the best insulation to use/ and how thick/ how thick concrete slab do i need /
think the min dapth of screed is 400mm is this right.
thanks lads its for a living room soo theres going too be quite a bit of traffic
can you help as its all damp and blown.
I was told too dig it all up till i hit the over site and start agen
 
400mm are you on drugs?

go and work with a screeder if you want some experience,its donkey work and poorly paid unless you are set up to do it.
I do quite a bit for large contractors but i pump it into place, sod using barrows and hand balling it in.
 
owls said:
400mm are you on drugs?

go and work with a screeder if you want some experience,its donkey work and poorly paid unless you are set up to do it.
I do quite a bit for large contractors but i pump it into place, sod using barrows and hand balling it in.
Click to expand...

me and an my old paddy mate were getting £4.90 per m2 labour only 3 yrs ago and knocking out 100m2 a day. finished by 3 most days too, hard work but worth it.
 
its advice
you dont know what your doing, you have no experience of what your doing.yet your going to tackle it in someones house and charge them for it
i wasnt being flippant just for the crac of it,
someone can give you all the info you want but ts diferent reading it on here as to puting it in practice.
 
Its in my own house sorry i didnt say
im guning out the floor on saterday.
Im thinking of ordered a skip 3 tone of sharp sand and 25 bags of opc 5l febmix plus 5l P.V.A (for the screed).
But im stuck on the rest ie what size kingspan to get?
And how thick i need the concrete slab to bee if i need one
soo can you help me out
As too step by step on how to set up ready too screed please thanks
PS its 18m2
 
i dont understand what your talking about. also kingspan???? im not following.dig the old one out put some membrane down and concrete it about 25m-35mm below yor screed finish then screed.this might be wrong im out of touch been 30 years since done a floor

also is it not possible to just concrete float finish get a wagon with a semi dry mix all on top of the appropiate gravel and membrane
 
I hate floor screeding... I did rake loads of it for a conservatory company years ago, never ever again! Hard work and man my knees killed me :-)
 
I was told it helps with the mix
so doo I
Need insulation then or not
im going too use a soft sand under the membrane to stop damp laping it up the wall fixed with battons
 
Seriously d*m**o if you don't know what your doing your gonna make a right **** out of it. Your living room or not.
 
ok then lads thanks for your help ill look in too getting some one in for a price
what am I looking to pay out for labour on this job.
Ill take up the old one skip it and get all the mats for it ps
Do i need too take off the skirts too
 
Hey d*m**o....

Get someone in but offer your labour for them, that way you will learn a whole lot more and will prob save on costs... if you get it wrong it could cost you more than what it costs to get it done by someone who does it every day..

No one on here is having a dig at all so hopefully it does not come across that way :-)

Let us know how you get on

Danny
 
get rid of all the old floor first then see what your up against.i see no reason why you cant do it yourself,im just not sure what you need to put down on the soil .i guess a damp proof membrane.then all you need is a truck with a semi dry concrete mix tell the company what its for they will bring the right stuff.then you need 2 maybe 3 barrows and 2-3 mates to bring it in.if you ve got skirts already on just bring your floor 5-10mm under them.straight edge it in let it dry a bit and float it if your not happy with the finish throw some self leveler on
 
I don't know about anyone else but if a customer asked to labour for me I'd say no or walk away. There's nothing worse than having someone who doesn't know what they are doing in your way all day. It makes the job twice as hard.
 
im soaking up all im been told on here thanks.
As for costs on labour for the new floor
ill get all the mats on site ready and the floor up too ill ask them what (depth) they want it
but how doo i tell its done prooper and im not getting fked in the bum
 
f'cking hell...

are you digging the entire floor up or just the screed?

do you know the difference between screed and concrete?

a typical modern(ish) house floor (depending on what year it was built) consists of the following, from soil upwards...

100 - 150mm compacted hardcore, blinded with sand if its over about 10 years old..
if not then its covered in 'kingspan' or 'jablite' or 'cellotex', again depending on when it was built...
a thermal break of cellotex, jablite, kingspan etc is installed around the edge between concrete and brickwork

then its filled with concrete to a minimum of 100mm, maybe 150mm again, depends on the spec/when it was built

THEN its topped with 50-75mm of SCREED...

so...

are you digging the entire floor up or are you just removing the screed?

there are different methods, you can install the insulation on top of the concrete and under the screed, whatever you do, it has to conform, to current building regulations, which means you have to hit a particular insulation value, or 'u-value', cant remember off the top but its around 0.3wm2k...

do you know where to start setting your levels from? do you know where your dpc level is? have you any experience at all of layiong concrete or screed?
 
the screed thats down now has blown hen you tp it its blown like plaster on the wall.
I was told there must be damp.
So if I take up the old screed nd leave the slab down what are the options if got as too
sorting the damp and laying the new floor
or is it best too just dig it up back to mud and start agen.
 
Last one i did was a few years ago it was:

• 6" hardcore
• blinded with 1-2" sand
• damp proof membrane
• 2" polystyrene insulation
• 4" concrete
• 3" screed
 
d*m**o said:
the screed thats down now has blown hen you tp it its blown like plaster on the wall.
I was told there must be damp.
So if I take up the old screed nd leave the slab down what are the options if got as too
sorting the damp and laying the new floor
or is it best too just dig it up back to mud and start agen.
Click to expand...

If the concrete below the screed is sound,
you could use a liquid dpm then screed on top
 
if your digging the whole lot up,

dig it all out to the clay or solid dependng on the age of the property,
level it out with a good covering of 20mm quary waste,
layer it wth a good covering of sand,doesnt matter what sort as long as its a good bed
level it out somewere near,doesnt have to be bob on
run a layer of visquine over it [being careful not to peirce it]
layer out foam insulation over it making sure its cut neat,scribing into any corners that arnt 90 degrees so its a good fit with no voids.foam insulation ie a make of cellotex,kingspan etc.bulding regs say a minimum thickness of 75mm but thats up to you id advise a minimum of 60 mm.
run some fol over tape, over all the joints of the perimeters of boards to avoid any 'cold spots'

concreting
18metre square your going to need around 2 cube at a good 100mm thickness if its just foot traffic
id advise you get a ready mix delivery as its a pain in the arse mixing it in a belle mixer and not always cost effective
a cube is around 100 plus vat depending on where you are.get it around 50 slump any wetter and it will bite you in the arse.
lay it down in a box screed system ie two parralel strips down the side of the room set them up level,
rule in the screeds wth a length of timber and give it a tamp down,set them in releation to finished floor level ie an exsisting door way
work away from a wall covering around a metre at time from your fxed starting point,
trowel it up with a boat trowel,these are different from normal laying on trowels and are shaped to avoid ripples
add a little water and trowel to a finish filling in any slacks.not to mutch other wise it will bring to much water to the surface and it will dry wth slacks and youll be out with the self leveling compound when its dry filling in 3 mm hollows.

now that you have that away you go my friend.
 
chris w So is it a must for 'kingspan' or 'jablite'
Or can I just poor the slab on top of the hardcore sand blinding with the menbraine then screed it when dry?
thanks chris w top man
 
should have 100mm min phenolic ie kingspan, celotex etc if starting from scratch
But if thats the case why not hardcore, blind,insulate, dpm, concrete then 50mm eps and then floating floor of caber or sim
 
yes, its a must, if you dig the floor up..
its like this...
building regs state that if you remove any part of a building that contributes to its insulation value, i.e. floor, walls, roof then when you put it back it MUST conform to CURRENT building regs...
however, if you just remove the screed only, youll be ok to put plain old screed back again...
dig the floor up and youll be in for more than you bargained for...
I think current regs state 150 hardcore, 100mm cellotex (think last year was 80mm), 100mm concrete, 75mm reinforced screed...

Planning Portal - Approved Document L

the above contains all the insulation information youll need... it relates to existing buildings as opposed to newbuilds..

try this too

Planning Portal - Ceilings and Floors

r.e. damp floors...
common, depends on the age of your house but you may find its just a slab of concrete sat on top of mud with no membrane or hardcore....
you may find its just a dodgy membrane, thin polythene was widely used years ago..

liquid dpm as already mentioned is the way to go if you dont want to go the whole hog...
usually coupled with a tanking system up the walls...
 
thats whats meant by compacted hardcore, although there used to be this stuff called 'optiroc' that did away with hardcore, insulation AND the wacker...
dunno if it still conforms but its a bloody good idea if only to replace the hardcore... ill try and find a link...
 
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