help with weatherby acryic render

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bhay2149

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Im looking for some advice on acrylic render. I am rendering a new build which has been built with lightweight block and timber frames. Its an strange build some walls start off as block and run into timber/ external plywood sections. I was going to use an sbr/cement slurry on block, paper and mesh all timber and s/c scratch coat the lot. Leave it few weeks then apply a weatherby base and top coat.
Also seperate issue there is a 7m high round tower which has been laminated in 3 layers of ply it has been papered and meshed is it ok to put base coat with bedded in mesh straight onto that?
Has any one got any advice on best method to tackle this issue.
Any help appreciated:-)
 
You will need expansion joints where any timber frame sections meet blockwork sections. You will also need an external cavity on the timber frame sections between the sheathed frame and the renderwd facade..

I am working on a job right now timber frame with block outer skin. The frame has dropped 4 inches and the block has not moved at all. Its created a mess and the water damage from leaks is a joke. It was not installed properly.
 
Hia plasterjfe thanks for the post, what I think has happened is bricky has made window and door openings wrong size. So the timber frames have been built to make up the gaps some of which are a foot wide! but once rendered the whole wall needs to be rendered as one, if u know what I mean.Is this possible? If I leave expansion gaps is it ok to mesh over and scratch it all with s/c? Thanks.
 
Hello mate

have a look at the attached brochure

Knauf Aquapanel Exterior

That said.... from your posts it sounds like you have a real mix of issues here...... You should not render across a timber frame onto a block work wall, as JFE has stated, the TF will shrink and move (especially if it has gotten wet in construction), where the block work will not move (or shouldn't...), so you need a movement joint between a render carrier and render on the TF and the blockwork.

Give me a call on 07918766577 or drop me some details through (plans, elevations, sectional details or photos) to [email protected], and I will try to help you out.

All the best

Richard Lord
Aquapanel Specification Manager
 
Dragon Board is an MGO (Magnisium Oxide) Board - Knauf Aquapanel Exterior is a 100% cement board - very different products, but can be used in similar markets

With no organic content, the Aquapanel is more stable and the Aquapanel EXTERIOR has been designed to only be a directly applied render carrier board.

We are approved for use with Wetherby Render Systems as well....
 
BTW

although it is all cement, it is very easy to create a curve using Aquapanel Exterior (MGO is a very rigid board), so you should be able to make a curved substraight for your round tower as well.

get in touch.....

All the best
 
ok its not a timber framed building then

they aint gonna want joints around these areas so what I think your best doing is explaining to them that someone has made a cock up and that if you render it through there is a very high risk of cracking and that it will have to be on their acceptance that you proceed
 
The Timber and the blockwork will move differently - regardless of how much mesh and tape you apply, there will always be a risk of cracks.......

sounds like a complete bodge job (as JFE says)...... it needs some serious re designing and probably overcladding over the whole lot before rendering......

Be careful.....

Good Luck
 
Yeah I know what your saying thanks, I have suggested replacing the ply cadding with dragon board but might be costly! An your right big balls up there isnt one opening which has been built to right size!
 
if it is around all windows why don't you make a raised panel render band around the windows keep them all the same size,back to back stop bead were the substrates meet
 
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