How to repair plaster around the door?

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perky416

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Hi Guys, I did a bit of plastering in the bathroom however i plastered up to and around the architrave surrounding the door, now I have decided to remove the architrave because it was dated I have an un-plastered area around the door frame. Please see the picture attached.

I have brought some deep hole filler to fill down the side of the door, and above the door there are 3 battens (you can see one in the pic) where I was going to screw in a piece of plasterboard and fill over it, sand it all down then finally re-paint the entire wall, but im worried about cracking between the current plaster and the filler I intend to put in. I could mesh tape it but then wouldn't it be a right game to blend in the filler over the mesh and match it with the rest of the plaster?

How would you guys tackle this problem (I really want to avoid skimming over the entire wall).

Thanks
Lee
 

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I would put some wood along the top. Fit a piece so it's stuck to back of existing plasterboard with some no nails and 3 screws through existing plasterboard onto new wood. Seal all the edges of dusty dry plaster with Pva. Cut a strip of plasterboard (seal edges with Pva) and stick along on top of new wood with no nails. Plaster fill all around door frame. By sealing all the edges and dry plaster it should all stick nicely and not crack. Tip. To fit wood put a few screws along bottom edge so you can hold and move about, then remove to fit plasterboard. You will have to get width big enough to fit in and behind but not to big or you won't get it in
 
perky416 said:
Hi Guys, I did a bit of plastering in the bathroom however i plastered up to and around the architrave surrounding the door, now I have decided to remove the architrave because it was dated I have an un-plastered area around the door frame. Please see the picture attached.

I have brought some deep hole filler to fill down the side of the door, and above the door there are 3 battens (you can see one in the pic) where I was going to screw in a piece of plasterboard and fill over it, sand it all down then finally re-paint the entire wall, but im worried about cracking between the current plaster and the filler I intend to put in. I could mesh tape it but then wouldn't it be a right game to blend in the filler over the mesh and match it with the rest of the plaster?

How would you guys tackle this problem (I really want to avoid skimming over the entire wall).

Thanks
Lee
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When I do repairs like this, I undercut the existing skim using a stanley knife or wood chisel. Your scrim tape will then be below the finished surface level when overlapped from new to old. Easifil, sand and job done.
 
My easiest way to repair this would be adhesive scrim tape over the wood then fill out with board adhesive and allow to set. Make sur you keep it flat as it sets very hard but there is no shrinkage then light coat over with either easyfil or joint cement and light sand when dry. This way allows minimal time to be spent on a 4 hour job :)
 
Thanks for the replys guys.

I think the 2 easiest methods for me would he either using the wood as wayners mentioned or filling with board adhesive as per steve bt, however ibhave a couple of questions for you guys.

Wayners - would it literally be normal plaster i fill around the door with or is there a special type to stop it from cracking?

Stevebt - what do you mean by covering the wood with scrim? Do you mean the door frame? Would using the board adhesive prevent cracking?

Thanks guys.
 
Scrim tape the gap

Fit architrave to minimise the gap

Fill remaining gap with easy fill and sand


 
But seriously.. I’m all up for having a go.. but with a one off like this a spread will do it for £50 on his way home. It’s just not worth the hassle.
 
I didn’t actually look at the picture and was expecting some wood lathing where the back mould was removed hence me saying fibre tape the wood :)

Just mix board adhesive stiff and it will fill all that lot very easy. A taping knife will finish the 2nd application better than a trowel as well.

The board adhesive won’t crack as long as you fill it well as it sets that hard and will get an excellent grip.
 
lurpak said:
But seriously.. I’m all up for having a go.. but with a one off like this a spread will do it for £50 on his way home. It’s just not worth the hassle.
Click to expand...

Maybe but a diy'er will rather do it themselves.... I could pay a chippy to build my shed... it will cost about the same but I want to do it :)
 
Just ordinary multi finish. If surfaces are well sealed it will stick and be solid. Movement causes cracks so make sure everything is solid before you fill up. B&Q sell that no scrim powder filler that is crack resistant but never used myself. It's in bags in building section. I just stick with multi finish myself. There are many ways you can do the job and you will get many ideas here.
 
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