internal render

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S a plastering

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been to look at a job its a cottage with solid stone work on all walls they want it knockin off and render was going to give 2 coats of sbr first then render 2 coats will 4.1 then 5.1 be ok and will it need waterproofer in top coat aswell as the scrtch coat or just feb in top coat thanks whats the best attack ratios etc thanks
 
If the customer will not go down the lime route price wise , use a weak cement render and stay away from waterproofers .
 
Cause using the wrong gear may cause you more problems in the long run than the original jobs worth. If you get a call back .
 
church said:
If the customer will not go down the lime route price wise , use a weak cement render and stay away from waterproofers .
not sure what ya mean church surely it would have to go in the scratch just to give it a bit more protection
 
Solid stone building have got to breath and let the moisture out, lime plaster, waterproofers in s&c stop water vapour and can cause problems further down the line.
Dri-coat would do the same, trap moisture as it's really for damp proof work, the real deal should be limelite.
 
Limelite is used on older buildings, solid walls and after damp treatments as it allows the building to breath as it was designed to, also called renovating plaster, only draw back is it's very expensive but does the job, oh and it burns your lungs out when mixing!
I was thinking bout dabbing with thermal boards, keep the heat in and sort out condensation problems further down the line associated with solid walls.
 
ziggy2 said:
Solid stone building have got to breath and let the moisture out, lime plaster, waterproofers in s&c stop water vapour and can cause problems further down the line.
Dri-coat would do the same, trap moisture as it's really for damp proof work, the real deal should be limelite.
Limelite is identical to dri-coat its just tilcons version
 
Bod said:
ziggy2 said:
Solid stone building have got to breath and let the moisture out, lime plaster, waterproofers in s&c stop water vapour and can cause problems further down the line.
Dri-coat would do the same, trap moisture as it's really for damp proof work, the real deal should be limelite.
Limelite is identical to dri-coat its just tilcons version
 
ive not really done any lime rendering just normal stuff really an done loads of limelite so what else would work on these walls other than lime render?cheers
 
madmonk said:
ive not really done any lime rendering just normal stuff really an done loads of limelite so what else would work on these walls other than lime render?cheers
I have done a bit its just the time between coats which is annoying church is the master on lime rendering i think he wrote the book he can give some good advice on it :)
 
what im saying though i know for a fact they wont pay for lime render so is there anything else surely there is if not im leaving it alone
 
It's a very difficult subject madmonk, what was put on the walls originally was there for a reason render / plaster wise , maybe that was because they had f*ck all else /or better to use ,but that was back in the day before gas central heating or oil filled ,argon gas filled double glazing windows / doors , plastic type masonry paints and lambs wool wrap loft insultion layed in the ceiling joists and across it for good measure, but the truth is your guess is as good as mine when it comes to whats right and wrong but all i know is these property's were designed originally to get wet and dry out without causing problems to the structure i think ;)
 
lime render was used because cement wasnt invented when these cottages were built... they also didnt have cavity walls way back when... so when cement was invented it was cheaper and quicker to use than lime mortars and used in the right context cement is ok but should not be used on walls without a cavity as it traps the moisture. NHL is not that expensive @ £300 per tonne = £7.50 per 25kg
there is no excuse nowadays for using the wrong materials as all the info you need is out there...
 
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