Is there one of them bubble wrap type of membranes you can bond too?

[nelly]

You know that shlt you nail on with the plastic nail things for damp.


Bond as in coat of bonding or hardwall etc

has anyone used it and is it okay?

 

[PhilPlaster]

Ive used some. Cant remember the name though. It came with plastic plugs that you fixed it to the wall with. TIP Unless you get enough fixings in it the sheet has too much movement in it. Obvious I know! I dry lined over it and it held really well. It was for a huge cellar and also in an office basement. Worked a treat. Sorry though I cant remember the name of the stuff. It looked like a darleks lower body. Loads of raised circles .

 

[S a plastering]

ive used it nelly delta membrane its not hard to do but its quite expensive

 

[flynnyman]

Ive used some. Cant remember the name though. It came with plastic plugs that you fixed it to the wall with. TIP Unless you get enough fixings in it the sheet has too much movement in it. Obvious I know! I dry lined over it and it held really well. It was for a huge cellar and also in an office basement. Worked a treat. Sorry though I cant remember the name of the stuff. It looked like a darleks lower body. Loads of raised circles .

Ive dabbed over it on a job the other week but they were circles going in must of been put on the other way round, i never put it on so which is the right way around?

 

[S a plastering]

the bubbles go against the wall an the mesh side outwards then its plugged with big plastic plugs which are wrapped with like black rubber seal then tapped in its overlapped at least 4inch with a run of rubber down the laps to seal it you can dab it and bond it out also but your suppose to dab ontop of the plugs if you can

 

[PhilPlaster]

The circles are meant to go against the wall thus keeping the majority of the plastic off the wall. On the other side is a mesh. You can fix your gear to it. The plugs come with a black rubber to seal the whole from the plug fixings.

 

[PhilPlaster]

Is your name Bruce, madmonk?! Stealing my thunder ! lol

 

[S a plastering]

i was in there first ner ner lol

 

[PhilPlaster]

i was in the G** bar first lol

Oh really :

 

[flynnyman]

the bubbles go against the wall an the mesh side outwards then its plugged with big plastic plugs which are wrapped with like black rubber seal then tapped in its overlapped at least 4inch with a run of rubber down the laps to seal it you can dab it and bond it out also but your suppose to dab ontop of the plugs if you can

So as your lookin at it the bubbles are sunk in? To be honest i thought it was a dodgy system the way they were usin it on a job, coz they werent solving the problem of damp just covering it up and they didnt put a seal of rubber up the joint...................ruff c**ts

 

[PhilPlaster]

Yeh bubbles sunk in as your lookin at it. Its to keep the majority of the plastic off the wall.
Ha beat ya this time Madmonk! ;D

 

[S a plastering]

realy your suppose to do the floor in it aswell which is lapped up the wall300mm then the wall membrane runs behind so any damp/water runs down the wall under the floor into a sump but you have got to seal it all with the black sticky rubber othrwise ther is no point

 

[barryed]

You know that shlt you nail on with the plastic nail things for damp.


Bond as in coat of bonding or hardwall etc

has anyone used it and is it okay?

Yes mate there one for bonding onto its on the wykamol wedsite and is in the basement conversion section

 

[PhilPlaster]

realy your suppose to do the floor in it aswell which is lapped up the wall300mm then the wall membrane runs behind so any damp/water runs down the wall under the floor into a sump but you have got to seal it all with the black sticky rubber othrwise ther is no point

Thats what we did when the new concrete slab went in but it was a bas**rd gettin the stuff behind coz if you let go it would coil back

 

[barryed]

realy your suppose to do the floor in it aswell which is lapped up the wall300mm then the wall membrane runs behind so any damp/water runs down the wall under the floor into a sump but you have got to seal it all with the black sticky rubber othrwise ther is no point

Thats what we did when the new concrete slab went in but it was a bas**rd gettin the stuff behind coz if you let go it would coil back

Its easier to put the drainage chanel in with it which then runs all the water out of the area that way. I think also thats the way its intended to be used but could be wrong

 

[S a plastering]

realy your suppose to do the floor in it aswell which is lapped up the wall300mm then the wall membrane runs behind so any damp/water runs down the wall under the floor into a sump but you have got to seal it all with the black sticky rubber othrwise ther is no point

Thats what we did when the new concrete slab went in but it was a bas**rd gettin the stuff behind coz if you let go it would coil back

i know bruce its a barsteward to roll out its quite stiff oooooh did i just say that lol

 

[nelly]

Ive dabbed on it before and it was w@nk, the walls were moving afterwards.

I was asuured by the installers this wouldnt happen but it did, and to be honest Im even more sceptical about bonding on it.

 

[barryed]

the best way i have found is to scrtew it up with the screws in a line at 40cm centres then batton boaed and skim. You only need the basic membrane for that as well. YTou get no movement that way the screw holes are in the plugs think they take size 8 screws

 

[flynnyman]

Ive dabbed on it before and it was w@nk, the walls were moving afterwards.

I was asuured by the installers this wouldnt happen but it did, and to be honest Im even more sceptical about bonding on it.

exactly the same the wall was movin all over.

 

[murplastering]

done acres if you what your doing you cant go wrong if your not familier then who knows

 

[PhilPlaster]

the best way i have found is to scrtew it up with the screws in a line at 40cm centres then batton boaed and skim. You only need the basic membrane for that as well. YTou get no movement that way the screw holes are in the plugs think they take size 8 screws

Thats spot on . Theres even screw wholes down the centre of the plugs so you can fix them. BUT IF YOU MISS!
If you get enough fixings and put the spots where the plugs are its ok but the plastic has got to be taught. Having said that I didnt rate it.

 

[barryed]

I usually get the screw through the wood a bit first and marry it up with the plug hole before screwing it up properly. Then for the others I screw throgh slowly first as at worst you will then catch the round black head on the plug which is not a disaster so then just adjust slightly till you find the hole

 

[PhilPlaster]

Hmmmm sounds familiar ! :

 

[nelly]

Ive dabbed on it before and it was w@nk, the walls were moving afterwards.

I was asuured by the installers this wouldnt happen but it did, and to be honest Im even more sceptical about bonding on it.

exactly the same the wall was movin all over.

What I found was if the dabs landed on a nail (plastic fixing) it was okay but most of them didnt.

I decided that battening over the top was the best idea except this job I'm pricing he says he hasnt got enough space, for the battens.

 

[barryed]

Surely there cant be to much difference between a 2x1 batton with a 9.5 mm board on than bonding it out

 

[nelly]

Surely there cant be to much difference between a 2x1 batton with a 9.5 mm board on than bonding it out

I agree mate but its like when you offer to overboard a ceiling and there like - but how much head room will I lose?


Half an inch dlckhead!


Oh okay then.

 

[barryed]

Had taht same thing the other week on a landing. The t**t wanted it knockiung off and re boarded and skimmed. Would not just have it overboarded and the ceiling was 3.5m

 

[carlos]

I ve put up literally thousands of metres of this it a piece of piss. Loads of diffrent makes now a days.

the one we use most specs that the dabs have to go over the fixing. we measure them out to get them in the right places.

If i plaster one i didn't fit i will take extra fixings so if it needs a few i can spend 15 min making it right.

 

[PhilPlaster]

Measuring them is all well and good but Ive done walls that were so wet you couldnt get a good fixing exactly were you needed it. If possible then you could also build a stud wall in front of it.

 

[owls]

we also use a lot of this,
we use the stuff by triton chemicals its the p20 base, that we use were you can float straight over it direct bond[thistle bonding about 150 plus vat. At the very least if there is any moisture in the wall it needs a cavity drain system at the base otherwise it is in enefective and it will sweat behind it. if it is in a basement i would suggest a sump pump conected to the mains power 240msupply.other wise you are storing up problems.

were on the approved contractors list whitch means the company comes out and asses your working practices and is a pain in the arse but means we can issue all the paperwork and insurance gurantees and stick a good 20% per cent margin on top a good cellar conversion can be 20 grand plus.we have just finished one recently and it was random rubblee and lime morter in a barrel ceiling, so it was a nightmare to get any fixings to.
its a big growth industry at the moment is cellar conversions as people are tending to stay were they are instead of moving,were getting a lot more enquires recently
but you need to know what you are doing cos if you bodge it through bad practice,it will come back to bite you in the arse at a later date.