K REND, why does it split ?

BigBish

Well-Known Member
So ive been using this for the first time these last few weeks.

Lovely gear to spray and rule, and a c**t to rub up.

Been shown how to get the most out of it by the firm im on for.

Split like f**k today, top lift only


Why
 
So ive been using this for the first time these last few weeks.

Lovely gear to spray and rule, and a c**t to rub up.

Been shown how to get the most out of it by the firm im on for.

Split like f**k today, top lift only


Why
What stuff you been spraying? K1 spray or K1 silicone? I take it you mean sagging between ribbons?? Only had it happen bad once that was because my r&s was done with. Straight on block or base and mesh?
 
What stuff you been spraying? K1 spray or K1 silicone? I take it you mean sagging between ribbons?? Only had it happen bad once that was because my r&s was done with. Straight on block or base and mesh?


Hpx on cement board fully meshed
 

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If it’s the one loaded with silicone that’s why.

Silicone and water do not mix hence the splits, it’s the same with a normal rotar and stator it won’t go thorough and a clamped rotar and stator is needed to allow the material and water to be forced together.

If you manage to get it on the wall the silicone tries to repel the water and you end up with splits.

The way round it, I’m led to believe, is to really over work the material and rule several times making sure the material is pushed hard together.

I’m sure some swear by the stuff but we tend to stay away. Basecoats are decent but left a minute too late become sticky and unworkable
 
Just to add, I’d bet only the top has split due to is being in the shade therefor wetter for longer allowing the materials longer to try and seperate.

I’ve had the same problem spraying grey k rend, sprayed the front and side of a property on a damp overcast day and was riddled with splits, sprayed the back on a warmer sunnier day and went like a dream.

If we sprayed it again in the future I’d make sure the panel was in full sun, conditions were perfect, rule several times, serated spat it and then spat it flat. That’s a lot of work compared to other materials.
 
Do
You put the top coat next day or wet on wet?
Next day dry base coat.

Its k1 not silicone

I used a serated edge followed by a feather edge then spat.

It was basecoated before the beads went on, to get the full 15mm. Maybe thats why, either way its a great looking material but takes f**k**g ages to work it and even longer to dry!
 
Look at the list of lads on here with issues with k rend.
the composition of it is terrible, there are umpteen better quality renders about.
 
Look at the list of lads on here with issues with k rend.
the composition of it is terrible, there are umpteen better quality renders about.
Do you ever get any problems with Parex? I can't remember ever hearing anyone moan about it.
 
Next day dry base coat.

Its k1 not silicone

I used a serated edge followed by a feather edge then spat.

It was basecoated before the beads went on, to get the full 15mm. Maybe thats why, either way its a great looking material but takes f**k**g ages to work it and even longer to dry!
Silicone or not, that’s not the problem here, it’s the suction. When you do the mesh the day before the chances you get slumps like this are great. It happens with all manufacturers. The only solution here is to do the top coat in two passes.
 
And one of the biggest mistake here is to leave the basecoat flat and finish it with spat. It’s like trying to render over mirror
 
Do you ever get any problems with Parex? I can't remember ever hearing anyone moan about it.
Nope, nor Weber, sas, enewall, sto which we all regularly use.
Any issues arising with prebagged render is nearly always applicator issues, but k rend is the exception that we use (paid for by the developer) and it's been a hastle with it slumping shrinking etc.
A few issues you may say it's applicator error but most renders I know won't touch it, we can't all be wrong.
 
Silicone or not, that’s not the problem here, it’s the suction. When you do the mesh the day before the chances you get slumps like this are great. It happens with all manufacturers. The only solution here is to do the top coat in two passes.
We've sprayed 2 pases on 7n block and still had issues.
The last job we did i got the rep out, he blamed the wind :LOL:
 
We've sprayed 2 pases on 7n block and still had issues.
The last job we did i got the rep out, he blamed the wind :LOL:
Someone/something has to :D.
With all honesty I am avoiding krend as well.
It’s the suction tbh. Sometimes is better you don’t prime at all
 
What was the issues dude
Slumps etc it's the sand In the aggregate I think, it just just slumps there's no body to it.
And another issue we had was some rough bags in a pallet that were off colour. The thing is why put up with it when there are numerous different manufacturers out there, there base coats are very good such as hp12 but the top coats are gash.
 
Did you spray it mate and did you serrate it before levelling? Not a lot of body to HPX as its mostly adhesive so it goes on thin on CP board it'll slide if applied too thick and / or you trap air which doesn't get removed. Trapping air and then slipping tends to be a problem for the sprayers only if you don't serrate. Whats the reason for HPX anyway, HP12 may have been better depending on what you are doing?

Parex for me is unbeattable in workability, reliability, next day in winter and finish

You try putting Maite on in a thick coat on CP board with a quick spat. Good luck.
 
Slumps etc it's the sand In the aggregate I think, it just just slumps there's no body to it.
And another issue we had was some rough bags in a pallet that were off colour. The thing is why put up with it when there are numerous different manufacturers out there, there base coats are very good such as hp12 but the top coats are gash.
Hp12 very good ! Everything else I don’t like
 
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