Micro and rendaid

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Arti

Arti

Well-Known Member
Alreet.

Got a render job to price on a painted gable.

Paint seems canny solid, so my question is:

If i use micro can i rendaid and mesh on top like i normally would before topping with pral?

or do i need to use a parex render on top of the micro??

Cheers

Arti
XXX
 
You won't ever need micro followed by rendaid or parinter followed by rendaid if that's what u meant.

Parinter with mesh is the way to go here once dried out top with monorex
 
Belt and braces would be to mechanically fix the mesh to the wall with fixings as well so you aren't depending on a sliver of paint to hold 30kg of render per m2 up.
 
I've used loads of parinter.doing one at the mo.
Get a spec off parex though.they will probably spec,lankomousse(cleaning product),parinter with tv10,monorex top.
It's good gear.im doing a hotel with it 400m2.im putting a 1.5mm acrylic finish on this one.
 
I done a little one with steve on paint like not long ago , parinter how ever u spell it and mesh , then acrylic top . Pritty much felt the same as maite to apply etc and look of it ! Probably just a extra something in it.
 
Done one a few years back. Painted gable(solid) Parinter, Mesh(not pinned) then monorex. everything ok. Few areas were slumping,no suction. Think Parinter is lime based.
 
On painted surfaces I'd be tempted to scrabble it (you can hire them for £30 for week for TP, with enough notice) on your own you should be able to scrab 50m2 in a day.

wont hurt to open it up and give it a key.

if your wanting to use weber pral, stick to webers spec which will probably want RENDAID, pointless mixing and matching manufacturers as if anything goes wrong with the product they will blame each other.

Wouldn't hurt to take some pics and give a local rep a ring from whichever manufacturer you use, email them over and get some guidance, better still get an email back and your own ass is covered.
 
mac_plastering said:
On painted surfaces I'd be tempted to scrabble it (you can hire them for £30 for week for TP, with enough notice) on your own you should be able to scrab 50m2 in a day.

wont hurt to open it up and give it a key.

if your wanting to use weber pral, stick to webers spec which will probably want RENDAID, pointless mixing and matching manufacturers as if anything goes wrong with the product they will blame each other.

Wouldn't hurt to take some pics and give a local rep a ring from whichever manufacturer you use, email them over and get some guidance, better still get an email back and your own ass is covered.
Click to expand...

Scabble not scrabble :RpS_biggrin:
 
No fooking wonder it took me ages to find one a few years back.

well, you learn summat everyday, I'll have forgot tomorrow like but ta anyways
 
Like rendit, I would not trust a sliver of paint to hold it all on. It is not getting the whatever to stick to the paint it is the last layer of paint sticking to the previous layer.

Like Mac-plas, create a key or if you have to go over the top pin the mesh back. Takes ages.
 
Fair points chaps.parinter is made for this purpose.i think the mesh is critical to bond the gear together.
If this job fails i will have to emigrate!!!
 
I just think ,by the time you mess about with base coats ,plus the risk ,get a price for sand blasting ,but thats me
 
That black bitumen paint is a sod to get off. Shot blast wont touch it, beads bounce off.

Grind it off and your face turns yellow. Fumes don't do you any good either.
 
If you use rendaid and pral you will most deffo need to pin the mesh back.

Better to do the same with parinter although pins are not always on the spec for parinter as it will etch into the paint.

The parex spec will always show pre render inspection of a hammer test and a low power wash test also lankomousse. If the paint is showing no signs of delamination then they will proceed with parinter followed by monorex.

If the paint does delaminate as always it is advised to remove 90 percent from the overall surface.

Paint is a bummer Hugh.
 
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