Mono fix??

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Arti

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Need to redo a dwarf wall again in mono. so i plan to re-bead and go over the top of what ive already done.my question is how soon can i do it?. do need to give it a week or soto let the existing mono cure or can i just lash on soon as??
 
Mono doesn't shrink etc like s&c so you can go over once hard. Don't forget it needs a mechanical key though......like disc cutting, a coat of some thin coat adhesive keyed up or laid on just before, sbr with mono on tight first pass etc
 
went back to have alook at the job this morning and we've missed other bits when rubbing up cos it was fewkin pitch black and its not the best and im thinking about doing the walls again in thin coat acrylic. Any tips?? do i needa special primer or would SBR do? any pitfalls using this stuff??..........also any preferred manufacturer.........??
 
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went back to have alook at the job this morning and we've missed other bits when rubbing up cos it was fewkin pitch black and its not the best and im thinking about doing the walls again in thin coat acrylic. Any tips?? do i needa special primer or would SBR do? any pitfalls using this stuff??..........also any preferred manufacturer.........??

if youve never used any acrylic before, then your going to struggle, not being funny but you sound like your not clued up on it.you wouldnt need primer if you were acrylic, just a good base coat

cost wise it will be more than mono work.

just mono it again.
 
if youve never used any acrylic before, then your going to struggle, not being funny but you sound like your not clued up on it.you wouldnt need primer if you were acrylic, just a good base coat

cost wise it will be more than mono work.

just mono it again.

Av never used acrylic before and with the job just being 15m2 of garden walls i thought it would be an idea to try it rather than having to either hack of what ive done or bead on top and do it again.I dont know how far a tub/bag of acrylic goes so i wasnt sure on the cost comparison
 
look on here , theres loads of threads on it.
depends what maunufactorer and grain size your using.
a good base coat is around 20 odd quid a bag, around 5 metres per bag
pale of render is around 80 quid covers around 10-15 metres
roll of mesh around 50 covers 50 metres
primer small pale around 40 covers 60 metres
plus beads plus vat

parex, marmorit etc are your good quality ones
jub, krend ac etc are your cheaper ones
 
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I did look through old posts but didnt see any coverage details or prices. It was through these posts that i thought i could cover the mono ive just done in acrylic as i had been suggest on several posts for getting over s**t mono without doing it all again.
 
I did look through old posts but didnt see any coverage details or prices. It was through these posts that i thought i could cover the mono ive just done in acrylic as i had been suggest on several posts for getting over s**t mono without doing it all again.

if its sound and its just the 'misses' your concerned about, just go over with some stabalizer. every maunfacter makes a stabalizer which is just an acrylic paint
 
ive got places where the rain had washed some of the mono off and when we scraped it back the mesh was coming through thats why i was thinking about the acrylic
 
Isn't there already a good enough key on mono to just go straight over it? Or is it a lack of suction thing
 
Isn't there already a good enough key on mono to just go straight over it? Or is it a lack of suction thing

fewk knows spunky im just asking the questions marra. i thought i might have to prime the mono before putting the acrylic on? or maybe i can just lash it on??
 
if the mono is sound and flat just prime with the products dedicated primer mate and top with the acrylic, sounds like small areas so you would be ok on your own, if not get some one to follow you up , keep that wet edge , scrape on and scrape off, the bigger grain sized bucket coats are a lot more forgiving bud, so bear that in mind. You will be fine mate:RpS_thumbup:
 
id still be tempted to fill out any holes any run some stabalizer over it, its the most cost effective option. but have a crack acrylic i suppose as you dont have owt to loose on a small area like that.
 
ill tell you what ill do artisan ,
next time we do an acrylic job we usually have the odd tub left over, next time you can have it to have a practice with. we sometimes work all way up the a19 and a1 up to northumberland so you can get it then.
 
Nice one cheers marra. If ya up this way and you could do with a free pair of hands for a day. i would gladly take a day of experience if you didnt mind............:RpS_thumbup:
 
new scenario. The geezer doesnt want acrylic. he wants tyrolean but weber dont do the colour he already has with the mono. so can you tyrolean with mono if you make it pissy enough & is there enough suction in the mono to just fire it straight on???
 
we did it on some old boundry wall for a mate that wanted a tidy up and wasn't worried about colour so we used a few oddments of bags, came out fine, bit heavier than norm but looked good
 
what he said above,

and let it dry out totally, we did a 20 odd metre panel with some pral m, and looked fine, but i hate tyrolean tho.
 
we did it on some old boundry wall for a mate that wanted a tidy up and wasn't worried about colour so we used a few oddments of bags, came out fine, bit heavier than norm but looked good

Did you just fire it on paul or did you need a primer of some sort??
 
fired that mono on today with the tryo gun and it turned out canny...........cheers for the help....................:RpS_thumbup:
 
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