New and looking for advice

[Plastergirl]

I've been a plasterer in Cleveland Ohio for about 3 years mostly repairing plaster and lathe in 100 year old homes. This current job is a bit different, repairing basement walls that are clay tiles, mortared then veneered with stucco, around 400 sqf. Any suggestions as to the best mortar mix to use? They want it done economically. Basement is slightly damp but not soggy or moldy. I'm thinking type N mortar 1:3 with sand. Adding ironite, but the ironite is expensive. Ideas?

 

[Danny]

I've been a plasterer in Cleveland Ohio for about 3 years mostly repairing plaster and lathe in 100 year old homes. This current job is a bit different, repairing basement walls that are clay tiles, mortared then veneered with stucco, around 400 sqf. Any suggestions as to the best mortar mix to use? They want it done economically. Basement is slightly damp but not soggy or moldy. I'm thinking type N mortar 1:3 with sand. Adding ironite, but the ironite is expensive. Ideas?

Welcome along

maybe @Loren again can help as we are primarily a UK site....

I am sure some more of the more "wiser" members of TPF maybe able to guide you @flynnyman

 

[Loren]

Hey Plastergirl, welcome to the forum. I'm based in Seattle, sounds like we work the same type of jobs. Are you planning on recoating the 400 sq ft of basement wall or just patching it where it's in disrepair? I don't do a lot of basements, but when I have worked with this one contractor we would roll Zypex ( https://www.xypex.com/products ) on the perimeter walls and then install furring strips which create an air space, then just hang board (leave a small gap at the floor for any moisture to escape the inside of the air space area) & finish how ever you want veneer plaster or tape.
I am so NOT a fan of those damn clay tiles (fire blocks) they are a pain in the ass to attach lath to.
I've been plastering for over 4 decades you can email me if you ever need an unbiased opinion about anything to do with plastering.
email - [email protected]
website- https://www.lorensmedberg.com

 

[Plastergirl]

Thanks Loren! I am recoating the entire 400 as the old has already been removed. It is the bottom of the walls and has to match up to the top. Ideally furring strips and even metal lathe would be my choice but that about triples the cost which is not what the customer wants. Just hoping I can get the mortar to stick, I'll find out tomorrow! I will definitely stay in touch as there aren't too many plasterers around here maintaining the historic plaster in homes. Most are replacing or veneering with drywall. Thanks again for the response, I look forward to talking more!

 

[Loren]

Hey Plastergirl, welcome to the forum. I'm based in Seattle, sounds like we work the same type of jobs. Are you planning on recoating the 400 sq ft of basement wall or just patching it where it's in disrepair? I don't do a lot of basements, but when I have worked with this one contractor we would roll Zypex ( https://www.xypex.com/products ) on the perimeter walls and then install furring strips which create an air space, then just hang board (leave a small gap at the floor for any moisture to escape the inside of the air space area) & finish how ever you want veneer plaster or tape.
I am so NOT a fan of those damn clay tiles (fire blocks) they are a pain in the ass to attach lath to.
I've been plastering for over 4 decades you can email me if you ever need an unbiased opinion about anything to do with plastering.
email - [email protected]
website- https://www.lorensmedberg.com

Thinking about this for a bit I might recommend that instead of furring strips you could run track across the ceiling and floor then attach wood or metal studs to the track , then you wouldn't have to worry about attaching your furring to the stucco or clay tile.

 

[Marshy]

Wow TPF gone proper international I'm impressed and always great to hear from @Loren he does some great work looking at the pics he posts

 

[Plastergirl]

Thinking about this for a bit I might recommend that instead of furring strips you could run track across the ceiling and floor then attach wood or metal studs to the track , then you wouldn't have to worry about attaching your furring to the stucco or clay tile.

Problem is I'm just working from the middle of the wall down, about 5 ft high from the floor. Going to give the mortar with plenty adhesive a try today and hope it sticks! I'll let you know how this educational adventure turns out. So thankful for forums like this where I can learn from experienced plasterers.