New bIg Job (Pics)

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oasis

oasis

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Just lookin at a job big areas to do. basicly the place is gutted and nerly all walls striped..

ill keep it short

ganna re render all the bakc wall due to damp as the hill runs up it.. and he has asked me to dab the rest out and reboard old laf ceilings after they are taken down.

do you think it is ok to dab walls in this house?
its old stone background..
have a look c

New bIg Job (Pics)


New bIg Job (Pics)


New bIg Job (Pics)


New bIg Job (Pics)
 
foooook me thats some work are you skiming tooooo m8te did a bomb go off there is it in iraq post some pics when its done it will look good try to get the paint work to ;)
 
gypliners a more specialist job the metal stud gangs do stick with the dot and dab mate and if the walls are out dub them out with s/c while yourre doing the exterior walls
 
jeda said:
classic that.does it come in a tub. lol
Click to expand...

no i fort u ment that stuff that seals plasterboard.. i fink ill use bond it on the walls after PVA then dab out...
 
Flynnys right mate if it was my house metal it insulation and board it it will turn one cold stone house into something comfortable.
Lucius
 
im like'in you to day spunkybummmm
yea i shall stick to what he wants and what i know i fink.. as the job is in a very hard to reach location and will take a long time to do and also i dont wanna be stuck on the same job to long. 7 rooms!

"any local dot and dabberz????? GLOS?"
 
Hello Mate
I agree with Islandview I would render it all, get all the walls floated up square and true then when its skimmed it will look fantastic
 
i'm with flynny and lucius, however, spunkys got a point too, if the customerwants it done a certain way you gotta go with that (unless hes an idiot)
 
oasis boards wont make it water tight but if you 2 coat sbr then scratch coat with waterproofer then dab thermos on it will give you good waterproofing also great uvalues which rendering alone will give you virtually zilch ;)
 
Tell him it would be better to do a render floating coat in your opinion. If he still wants to D & D it's up to him. At least you've covered your ass if owt goes wrong which I doubt anything will.
 
what does 'the hill runs up it ' mean?
metal gypframe + insulation and board is your best bet or if its gonna be on the brick it wants rendering..
and any potential damp problems sorted first e.g. external ground level above damp etc..
 
is on a hill and land runs up the back of the house..not that wet but a lil damp so was ganna theroseal back wall and sand and cement it, have given 2 quotes to render and dab it. the house is very dry everywere esle..
 
i see what your saying but its been there years and all thats there is a small amount of damp..but ill run it past
 
I appreciate what eveyone has said on this and its a fair comment just do what the customer wants but working for customers is not the same as working on site you become part builder so you should be aware of all the differrent options available so the customer can make their mind up i do a lot of this type of work and believe it or not once everything has been explained they nearly aways go for the dearest and the best,Gypliner.
Lucius.
 
iv give 3 options.. 1 dab out .. 2 sbr walls and scratch coat with waterproofer with moisture restand boards dabed on and 3 render the lot..
 
You dont need moisture resistant boards if you have cured any penetrating damp and if you havent they wont help any way just in the bathroom answer to your question though is that i know you are keen to get some rendering experiance so theirs your answer personaly if they were my options ide go for the one i could make most money out of.
Lucius.
 
im pretty sure in the faq section under damp proofing etc theres a list of posts which all say the same thing... get rid of the cause of the damp first..
i honestly can not quite believe that when made aware of the cause of the problem people are not prepared to remove said cause.. only bodge a solution..
the mind (german wording) boggles..
 
thing is chris (still feels wrong calling you that!) 4 out 5 punters don't want to pay for doing it properly, and when you've got bills to pay,as long as you've told them the correct solution, you have to go with the customer, sorry if that makes me a chancer. :(
 
i agree with everything pug.. just you gotta offer the customer the solution before the second best...
then its up to the punter and your covered..
end of the day, in the absense of a platon membrane on the external a coule of coats of synthaproof bitumen will do almost as well.. long as theres some gravel below damp to allow the water to soak into...
days work for a good labourer...
oasis 1st option is a non starter far as im concerned... and there was no mention of the dig out..
options 2 and 3 will probably work for a time but if the damp was there before due to excessive ground level then it'll come back eventually..
thats why the ground needs sorting... even explaining the causes to the punter and asking him to get his shovel out for his own peice of mind would be better than nothing at all..
the other option is tanking the wall.. but digging out is cheaper and more effective imo..
 
segs mate forgeting the damp wall(witch ent reali that damp at all) options 1 and 2 should be fine im guessing.. some one said about dabbing Moisture boards for some reason.. i dnt mind as it will be easy for me to get a good finish witch is very impotent.
 
yeh on areas where theres no damp youll be fine.. just have to give the walls a real good brush down with a stiff brush first then a good soak with some weak pva to give your dabbing a chance..
just look out for the loose bits mate.. old walls can be a mare to dab over..
all in the prep..
i wouldnt bother dabbing mr board meself..if theyre not going to be wet areas e.g. bathrooms, ensuites,kitchens etc.. then you wont need em..
if theres a damp problem you should really solve the problem first, mr boards wont really help you..
dabbing over a damp wall will give you a headache in a matter of days mate.. in fact youll prolly find the plaster when finished wont dry over the damp areas..
just bear in mind that all it takes is a week of heavy rain and problems like that grow into big problems..
not having actually seen the ground level over dpc at the back of the house i cant really advise properly, theres all sorts of things to consider when addressing damp mate.. levels, dpc failure, bridging, ventilation..
to nip back to otions 1 and 2 though.. a scratch coat of render will do two things...
1) it'll make your walls easy to dab onto... and
2) more rendering practice...
all good..
dont expect render to cure damp problems though.. the waterproofer just tries to stop any water left in the wall from manifesting itself internally.. any continued passage of water (e.g. raised levels) will cause it to fail eventually..
also a good idea if 2 coat rendering over an EX damp wall to make sure your waterproofers got salt repellant/neutraliser in it..
 
thanks again.. i will try go for the scratch coat and dab on other walls.. some walls are quite flat...

should i do this SBR slurry before rendering? or is this just the same as a bonding agent? would be good to understand this..
 
Just done 7 houses for liverpool council and the architects spec was a sand and cement scratch coat with water proofer downstairs then dot and dab the lot with 12.5mm boards peice of piss!!
 
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